Sassy Sauvignon Blanc Part II

Given that much of its appeal is related to its aromatic nose and mouth-watering fresh flavours, it's worth noting that when it comes to sauvignon blanc, almost all serious producers are shunning natural cork closures in favour of twist-off screw caps.

The reason is simple -- winemakers are trying to deliver the same pristine fruit and flavours to consumers they believe that they have captured in the bottle at the winery.

In fact, when it comes to aromatic wines, it is safe to say the cork versus screw-cap debate is all but over. In addition, as more and more screw caps penetrate the market, consumer tolerance is waning for anything but the purest expression of the wine, at least as the winemaker interprets it.

In a recent survey conducted by Skalli and Rein, a U.S.-based consulting firm specializing in the business of modern-day wine and the closure issue, 20,000 wine industry types were contacted in May 2006 for their most recent thoughts about natural corks, screw caps and synthetic corks.

In all, seven different surveys asked questions of winemakers, sales and marketing managers, intermediaries, on-trade buyers, off-trade buyers and journalists. The two-part questionnaire had general questions for all respondents and some specifically directed to each discipline. A thousand surveys were completed from 55 countries.

There were some interesting results. Screw caps attracted consumers first because they want simplicity of use. Apparently, they love how easy they are to open and close. Screw caps also offer a trustworthy seal. Finally, consumers said they wanted sincerity, as in taint-free wines, and they were not particularly interested in low costs as long as the product is reliable.

The winemakers that responded said "screw caps stand out as being the most reliable closure device," followed by natural corks and then synthetic corks.

As to the question, where in the wine world is the screw-cap topic the hottest? In Italy and France, the debate is closer to obsolete than to hot; as for Spain, it is between uninteresting and obsolete.

In the New World, the topic remains hot, especially in South America where both Chile and Argentina are preparing to jump to a new level of respect and are making important decisions about which closures they will employ to get there. Bet on the screw caps becoming part of the story.

Up first today is a delicious Vina Casas del Bosque Sauvignon Blanc 2005 from Valle de Casablanca, Chile. Ripe, rich round and crisp, it mixes grapefruit rind, smoky, melon and bell pepper flavour with a kiwi and lime-rind finish. Long with good finesse. Good value here, drink all summer.

If there is a more impressive sauvignon blanc under $15 than the Trio Sauvignon Blanc 2005, I haven't tasted it. A mix of clones blends mineral and flint specks into this fresh, clean, bright white with tropical fruit and smoky/grassy apple fruit undertones. Fine intensity and length with persistent fruit on the finish. Great value.

For a different, perhaps richer and more complex style, consider the Ferrari-Carano Fume Blanc 2005 from Sonoma County. Here the profile is honeydew, butter, vanilla, smoky bell pepper and passion-fruit flavours flecked with ginger and grassy, melon notes. A big jump in quality and styling with this vintage.

New this month in the market is ZED Sauvignon Blanc 2005 from Marlborough. It has the bell pepper, canned asparagus, gooseberry aromas that are the hallmark of Marlborough sauvignon. The flavours mix mineral, grapefruit rind, gooseberry, green apple skin and lemon flavours with a slightly oily finish. A bit more aggressive, herbaceous style, but well balanced. Very Marlborough -- bring on the mussels.

I really like the new Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc 2005, also from Marlborough, although it is definitely pricey. Passion fruit, gooseberry, floral, smoky notes mark the nose with just a hint of bell pepper. The palate is round, fresh and elegant, with juicy green apple skin, grapefruit, gooseberry and mineral flavours. This is an excellent vintage.

Back to Chile for a bargain sauvignon -- Valdivieso Sauvignon Blanc 2005. Now under screw cap, Valdivieso gives you a dusting of jalapeno, kiwi and mineral aromas, a fresh, dry palate and chalky, mineral, citrus rind, gooseberry and grapefruit flavours. An elegant style suited to simple seafood dishes.

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VINA CASAS DEL BOSQUE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2005, VALLE DE CASABLANCA, REGION DE ACONCAGUA, CHILE
Price: $17.95
UPC: 697412000027
Score: 88/100
Remarks: Smoky, melon and bell pepper flavour with a kiwi and lime rind finish.

TRIO SAUVIGNON BLANC 2005, VALLE DE CASABLANCA, REGION DE ACONCAGUA, CHILE
Price: $14.95
UPC: 7804320037875
Score: 88/100
Remarks: Fine intensity and length with persistent fruit on the finish. Good value.

FERRARI-CARANO FUME BLANC 2005, SONOMA COUNTY, CALIFORNIA, UNITED STATES
Price: $27.99
UPC: 742651121191
Score: 91/100
Remarks: Honeydew, butter, vanilla, smoky bell pepper, grapefruit and ginger flavours.

ZED SAUVIGNON BLANC 2005, MARLBOROUGH, SOUTH ISLAND, NEW ZEALAND
Price: $14.99
UPC: 633438302042
Score 86/100
Remarks: Very Marlborough -- bring on the mussels.

KIM CRAWFORD SAUVIGNON BLANC 2005, MARLBOROUGH, SOUTH ISLAND, NEW ZEALAND
Price: $23.99
UPC: 9419227005131
Score: 89/100
Remarks:Tasty, fresh, elegant and crisp on the finish.

VALDIVIESO SAUVIGNON BLANC 2005, REGION DEL VALLE CENTRAL, CHILE
Price: $12.95
UPC: 7802180088877
Score: 86/100
Remarks: Chalky, mineral, citrus rind, gooseberry, and grapefruit flavours.