Sangiovese

According to Darrell Corti of Corti Brothers Wine Merchants in Sacramento, a 16th-Century list of the wines known in Italy made no mention of it, even though it listed other wines of Tuscany. Sangiovese may have been known by other names through the ages, but it wasn't until 1600 that it first appears in Tuscan books on cultivation. "This very sudden appearance [of a principal grape] is unusual," Corti notes, "appearing full-blown on the wine scene just at the time of the beginnings of deliberate plant hybridization." Despite its murky history, sangiovese is now grown extensively in central Italy and forms the basis for Brunello di Montalcino, Chianti, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Torgiano, Montefalco, Rosso di Montalcino and other wines. And as we see today the variety is making inroads outside of Italy too, even as far away as Argentina's Mendoza Valley. If Brunello is the highest expression of sangiovese, simple Chianti may be its most humble heritage. A wine once denigrated for its plebeian nature, Chianti has undergone significant changes over the last 20 years. Freed from some highly limiting wine laws, the new sangiovese is beginning to turn heads. Even so, Corti correctly calls sangiovese the "most fashionable grape variety without a well-defined prototype." For most us, sangiovese (under the guise of the Chianti label) was the red wine we drank with spaghetti. But spaghetti became pasta, and that red acidic sauce gave way to more interesting interpretations such as Alfredo, marinara and pesto sauces. Today, I'm joined by the consumer down the street, my neighbour, Kim Davies. We met to assess four Italian sangiovese and one ringer from Argentina. Here's what we found. First up was Pater, a '97 sangiovese by Frescobaldi. Davies described its aroma as "quite dry with earthy/cherry aromas." There's a leathery, earthy, mushroom flavour that dominates the palate too, with just a touch of black cherry fruit. I thought the wine was alcoholic and very dry in the finish. Food would help, but it's no bargain given the simple style of this red. Next up was the popular Remole label, another Frescobaldi wine. Dusty, cassis fruit is the aroma here with a hint of premature ageing. Davies called this "another, dry red with slightly riper, figgy fruit in the finish." It's a chunky, rustic wine that would do well with a hunk of pecorino cheese and fresh crusty bread. Ecco Domani, a Sangiovese de Toscana, which means "here comes tomorrow," tasted more like yesterday. Davies liked the entry, calling it "light, round and soft," but there is a lot of bitterness in the finish. Not much character mixed with too much press wine was my assessment. This wine is bottled for E & J Gallo in Italy and distributed in North America. Frescobaldi's Nipozzano Riserva Chianti Rufina finally delivered the goods. "More elegant on the nose," said Davies, "with fine black cherry fruit." It is also much fuller in the mouth with good weight. "Long and rich in the finish" said Davies. Our final pick is the Bodegas Norton Sangiovese grown in Argentina's Mendoza Valley. "Earthy, overripe nose of figs and mushrooms," said Davies, "with a nice core of spicy, peppery fruit. There's still some tannin here, but nothing quail and a mushroom risotto couldn't tame." "Memories of the warmth of summer on a cool autumn evening" were Davies' final words. WEEKEND WINE TASTING: Sangiovese Producer: Frescobaldi Pater 1997 Sangiovese Tuscany, Italy Price: $14.95 Stock No.: 409896 Score: 12.5/20 Comment: Lean, dry and thin. Producer: Frescobaldi 1997 Remole, Tuscany Italy Price: $13.95 Stock No.: 105429 Score: 12/20 Comment: Simple rustic red. Producer: Ecco Domani 1997 Sangiovese di Toscana Price: $13.95 Stock No.: 500769 Score: 12/20 Comment: Tired wine. Producer: Frescobaldi 1996 Nipozzano Riserva Chianti Rufina, Tuscany Italy Price: $19.95 Stock No.: 107276 Score: 15/20 Comment: Warm elegant wine redolent of summer. Producer: Norton 1996 Sangiovese Mendoza Argentina Price: $12.95 Stock No.: 496216 Score: 14/20 Comment: Full bodied, full value, rustic red.