Same Vineyard, Same Wine, Same Area Code

The wine world is full of high scores for high-priced wine, but it is a lot more difficult to source medium-to high-quality wines at moderate prices. By that I mean wine that speaks to its origin, and is made by someone who resides in the same area code as the wine, and has a passion for the subject.

The good news is that our lousy summer, characterized by mostly cool temperatures, leaves all of us a wider slice of styles to choose. It's a welcome relief from last week, when I was caught in southern Ontario's heat wave, where temperatures in wine country spiked to the 45C range in the afternoon. In that extreme heat I had little interest in most reds, and frankly, most New World whites, especially those bound in oak and fat, sweet fruit that simply becomes undone in the heat.

That shouldn't be a problem here in the Lower Mainland this summer. One wonders what the rest of 2011 may have in store for British Columbia grape growers, who will be working long into October and November trying to ripen their grapes for harvest. In the meantime, all we can do is hope the weather remains dry.

We begin this week with an organically grown Chardonnay that so far has managed to deliver consistent quality and freshness for three years in a row. A former Killer Value under $15 at the Wine Access International Value Wine Awards in 2009, the Cono Sur Organic Chardonnay 2010 from the cool Valle de San Antonio, close to the Pacific Ocean, remains a real bargain. Expect its trademark clean fruit with gooseberry and passion fruit aromas mixed with just off-dry fruit with the taste of citrus, guava and passion fruit along with a generous swath of minerality. A versatile white for summer salads or grilled chicken. Should be a wine list favourite in neighbourhood restaurants.

Another winner from Chile with a slightly different tack is the Emiliana Novas Limited Selection Chardonnay Marsanne 2010 from Valle de Casablanca, also situated near the cool Pacific coast. This unusual blend is an organically grown 60-40 blend of Chardonnay and Marsanne. The nose and palate are a mix of melons, lemons, pineapples perfectly balanced by ripe red apples with bits of honey and apricot in the finish; the textures are round and ripe. Perfect for a Thai curry, or grilled fish with a fruit salsa.

Rilento Nerello Mascalese 2009 is an interesting red wine, again grown organically, on the slopes of Sicily's Mount Etna. Expect a peppery, black cherry, red plum, licorice, meaty, savoury nose with a palate that is round, dry, fresh and elegant with juicy acidity. There is more smoky black cherry, clove and licorice fruit flecked with cedar and rhubarb that finishes juicy with finesse and length. Hamburgers, grilled sausages and/or ribs would all be fine choices to accompany this red.

We head back to mainland Italy, where a solid vintage and attention to detail has really upped the quality of a simple Tuscan sangiovese: Frescobaldi Remole Chianti 2009. Look for a fresh peppery, meaty, black cherry nose with tobacco and cassis aromas. The attack is supple with light tannins and more black cherry, cassis, tobacco and earthy, forest floor flavours. Simple, rustic, fresh and fruity with solid balance that offers fine value. Pork chops or chicken cacciatore would be fine matches.

Moving north to southern France, the Château de Cabriac 2008, from Corbières in the Languedoc sits just far enough from the sea leaving its Syrah mourvèdre, Grenache and carignan a little riper on the nose and the palate. The style is smooth and rich with black raspberry, black cherry and smoky licorice notes. An impressive red wine for the price that is ready to drink with barbecue favourites. Lamb chops or flank steak would be especially well suited to this French gem. Excellent value here.

Our final pick today is a great example of why so many people are excited about the 2009 vintage in the Rhone, and why many have said to me that they expect, in the long run, it will be better than the very fine 2007 harvest. The Réserve Perrin Côtes du Rhône Rouge 2009 speaks to how good the vintage is. Try this delicious Rhone red blend where the fruit is ripe and round and the nose fresh and peppery flecked with the famous scent of wild herbs or garrigue and meaty notes. The palate is almost glossy with smooth textures and ripe, plummy, black cherry flavours and notes of mandarin skin. Super value and it will only likely get better in bottle for the next few years. Stock up.

There you have it. Some fun wines to while away the long weekend.

Cono Sur Organic Chardonnay 2010, Valle de San Antonio, Chile

Price: $14.50

UPC: 7804320242699

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Clean fresh fruit with gooseberry and passion fruit flavours.

Emiliana Novas Limited Selection Chardonnay Marsanne 2010, Valle de Casablanca, Chile

Price: $18

UPC: 007804320476650

Score: 88/100

Remarks: An organic 60/40 blend of Chardonnay and Marsanne from Casablanca.

Rilento Nerello Mascalese 2009, Sicily, Italy

Price: $14

UPC: 8033765259392

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Organically grown fruit on Sicily's Mount Etna.

Frescobaldi Remole Chianti 2009, Tuscany, Italy

Price: $14

UPC: 8007425200017

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Fine fruit and solid balance that offers excellent value in a pizza red.

Château de Cabriac 2008, Corbières, Languedoc, France

Price: $14

UPC: 33488822101152

Score: 88/100

Remarks: An impressive red for the price; try with grilled sausages.

Réserve Perrin Côtes du Rhône Rouge 2009, Rhone Valley, France

Price: $18

UPC: 631470000131

Score: 89/100

Remarks: How good is the 2009 vintage in the Rhone? Very good.