Salvaging The Harvest

Most of the early-picked grapes harvested over the last 10 days, and even that's not so early, are deliberately picked at lower sugars and higher acid to go into sparkling wine. Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir are up next south of McIntyre Bluff in the Oliver/Osoyoos region. It has been a cool year in general and now that nighttime temperatures are falling and the rain has arrived in the valley, the ripening process will further slowdown and stretch out.

Longer hang time can be good for the resulting wine but only up to point because it's almost mid-October. The trick now is to get fully ripened fruit off the vines before the inevitable fall weather systems, laden with cold temperatures and rain, sweep in from the north and south. Most growers do not like to talk about the weather in the same way that hockey goalies do not like anyone who utters the shutout word in the third period.

Mission Hill chief winemaker John Simes says this year's start to the harvest is "the latest date ever and it's my 20th harvest."

Simes says the outcome "will depend on whether we get frost in October and how severe it is. If the weather stays kind of okay, around zero or even minus one or minus two, we can cope with that with the wind machines."

"But once you get to minus three the leaves will die and the ripening is finished," Simes says.

At that point you have to pick no matter what the ripeness level.

Simes loves the 2011 white grapes this year especially down south. For the reds, most Pinot Noir will be picked with no trouble, followed by Merlot and Syrah. The big challenge will be the Cabernets: franc and Sauvignon. That said, Bill Eggert at Fairview cellars says his cabernet is edging toward ripeness in Oliver and should not be a problem. Interestingly the acids are down but the grapes have decent sugar levels which means if the weather holds, the reds could be ripe and softer than normal, always good news for wine drinkers.

More and more grapes are picked with mechanical harvesters. The outrageously sophisticated machines have come a long way over the last decade and they will be worth their weight in gold this year as growers wait and wait until the last possible day to pick their grapes. Unlike humans, the harvesters show up every day, work day and night at the same speed, they don't have to be fed and never complain. All excellent attributes when a storm is bearing down on your vineyard.

As we hope for the best in B.C. vineyards the rest of the month, here in the city most of the questions I'm getting all week are what to serve with the turkey. Today, we look at six very different wines that you can pair with turkey but feel free to riff off the grape varieties and blends to select your own wines.

Up first is Finca Los Primos Torrontés 2010. A fun, aromatic white with bright, fragrant, red apple fruit with hints of lime oil. The attack is clean and fresh and full of orange and lime flavours. Delicious stuff for the price and perfect for turkey.

If you want a crazy value try the Anciano Gran Reserva Tempranillo Aged 7 Years 2003 from Valdepeñas, Spain. A savoury, smoky nose previews a dry, round and elegant red. The palate is supple with earthy, tobacco, olive, peppery, spicy, sage and dried cherry and prune flavours, all with fine acidity. Designed for food, you can't beat the quality for the price.

The latest Road 13 Honest John's White 2010 is a big jump up in quality with 58 per cent Riesling at the centre of the blend, plus sauvignon blanc, kerner, Chardonnay, Bacchus, and Viognier. The nose is an explosive, aromatic mix of fruits that include melon and red grapefruit with a dash of honey. It's super fresh with more pear, green apple and melon fruit with perfect tension between the acidity and sweetness. A wonderful wine for turkey.

A Vino-Lok glass closure adds a touch of class to the Cusumano Nero d'Avola 2009 from Sicily. The nose is an appealing fragrant, spicy, floral, cherry, licorice affair. The palate is round, dry and elegant with very light tannins and a whack of fresh cherry, plum fruit flecked with chocolate, tobacco and herbal, floral notes. It has excellent finesse and fruit for the money. A good wine for cold nights and hearty dishes.

St. Urbans-Hof Riesling Ockfener Bockstein Kabinett 2009 is the real deal Riesling from the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Germany. It is so fresh, crisp and juicy but with elegance and concentration. You will love its ethereal floral, green apple, nectarine, guava and lime flavours. Despite its delicate, crisp style and delicious drinkability now, it will easily age two decades. A fine example of Mosel Kabinett.

Wrap up Thanksgiving dinner with a glass of Taylor Fladgate 20 Year Old Tawny. Somehow this wine is always fresh and intense despite its average age of two decades. We love the toffee/vanilla orange rind nose. The attack is opulent and complex offering up spicy, nutty, fiery, tea flavours with a delicious mellow vanilla finish. It is an exquisite piece of work that transcends the humble nature of grape. The perfect glass to raise and give thanks for all we enjoy in Canada.

Finca Los Primos Torrontés 2010, San Rafael, Mendoza, Argentina

Price     $10

UPC      07790703000065

Score   86/100

Remarks            Clean, fresh and full of orange and lime flavours.

Anciano Gran Reserva Tempranillo Aged 7 Years 2003, Valdepeñas, Castilla-La Mancha, Spain

Price     $13

UPC      005060108901451

Score   87/100

Remarks            Can't beat the quality and price.

Road 13 Honest John's White 2010, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada

Price     $17

UPC      626990062721

Score   88/100

Remarks            A wonderful wine for turkey.

Cusumano Nero d'Avola 2009, Sicily, Italy

Price     $18

UPC      8028262000141

Score   88/100

Remarks            A wine for cold nights and hearty dishes.

St. Urbans-Hof Riesling Ockfener Bockstein Kabinett 2009, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Germany

Price     $30

UPC      4013231000097

Score   91/100

Remarks            Delicate, juicy, crisp riesling that will slay the turkey.

Taylor's 20 Year Old Tawny N/V, Douro Valley, Portugal

Price     $67

UPC      05013626111291

Score   94/100

Remarks            Exquisite piece of work that transcend the humble nature of grape.

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