Riffing on Riesling

In all, there will be some 90 examples of the superior white grape variety with the fruity/mineral flavours to taste, from a number of countries.

It wasn't all that long ago we suggested Vancouver be designated a 'riesling wine zone' based on the plethora of cuisine suited to the food friendly grape. Pan-Asian restaurants with Indian, Chinese, Thai, Vietnamese and Japanese cuisine seem a natural fit for riesling although much work is left to be done to actually get the wines onto local wine lists.

Today, riesling is grown most everywhere in the world with the notable exceptions of Portugal, Spain and Greece. The short course in viticulture would suggest riesling thrives in a temperate climate. That's warm but not hot days and cool but not freezing nights. It ripens late, so a long, cool, growing season is best to aid in its development of intense aromas and flavours.

Riesling tends to grow best on slate, decomposed granite, schist or limestone based soils where it seldom over produces. For some reason it is well-suited to be further buoyed by any mineral content in the soil.

It can produce incredible fragrance and flavour despite relatively low alcohol, 8 to 9 per cent is the average German output. Yet it easily copes with higher alcohol, close to 12 - 13 per cent or more as can be the case in rich, heavy Alsace versions.

Outside of Germany, Australia's Clare Valley is widely regarded as one of the world's best riesling sites. The valley's long, hot summer days are countered with chilly night-time temperatures that retain the acidity and fruit. Eden Valley (Barossa) and nearby Adelaide Hills along with Frankland River (Western Australia) and the coolest areas of Victoria are all producing balanced, fresh, steely, lime rind versions and all are under screw cap closures.

New Zealand has joined the riesling party as has Austria, Italy and South Africa while here in Canada both Ontario and British Columbia are turning out fine, dry riesling as well as many excellent examples of icewine.

Today we look at six rieslings in local stores. All you need do is order in, or pick up, your favourite Pan Asian dishes and experiment with this remarkable grape.

Locally the Hawthorne Mountain Riesling 2005 opens with a floral, ripe, red apple fruit nose streaked with honey. The entry is fresh with mineral, nectarine skin and peachy citrus fruit flavours. It's a bit warm (alcoholic) but otherwise well made. It will pair well with many food possibilities or simply serve it solo on the patio.

South of the border the Chateau Ste. Michelle Riesling 2005 'everyday' riesling appears to be reaping some residual benefits from the company's high end riesling project Eroica - featuring German riesling maestro Ernie Loosen. Look for a bright fruit nose that mingles pear and melon with a streak of mineral. Crisp and round the slightly off-dry flavours of nectarine and green apple skin should pair well with Pad Thai and many other spicy dishes.

Moving across the Atlantic to Germany, Weingut Lorch Riesling Hochgewachs Bergzaberner Altenberg 2005 is just a lot of names for riesling with bright nectarine, green apple petrol and honey aromas. It's has gobs of fresh fruit on the mid-palate with more nectarine, peach, mineral, apple and slate flavours. Consistent with last year's fine effort, this is a great riesling value.

The Gustav Adolf Schmitt Niersteiner Riesling Spatlese Late Harvest 2005 comes with some residual sugar perfect for cooling down spicy dishes. The entry is ripe and fat with spicy, slate, rose, orange, mineral, peach skin flavours. A solid drink if a bit fat on the finish. Try with Indian curry dishes.

Speaking to what riesling can be in the glass is the Kruger-Rumpf Münsterer Kapellenberg Riesling Kabinett 2005 from the Nahe region. The nose is a remarkable mix of floral, red apple, baked peach, cement and spicy, apricot skin aromas. On the palate it is crisp and round, with juicy fruit flavours and a long intensely fruity finish. This is delicious, elegant riesling with many food possibilities.

The Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 2005 reflects owner Johannes Selbach's juicy, crunchy fruity riesling philosophy. The nose is highly aromatic mixing peach, red apple, floral, guava, honey and orange peel aromas with flecks of smoke and flint. The palate fresh and elegant with good acidity and sugar. Delicate but intense with crisp red apple, honey, orange, pineapple, floral, lime flavours. A touch sweet on the finish but with fine fruit intensity and delicacy. Drink now or keep for 10-15 years. Solid value.

HAWTHORNE MOUNTAIN RIESLING 2005, OKANAGAN VALLEY, BRITISH COLUMBIA
Price     $12.99
UPC      624738106935
Score   86/100
Remarks           Made for many infinite food possibilities or simply serve solo on the patio.

CHATEAU STE. MICHELLE RIESLING 2005, COLUMBIA VALLEY, WASHINGTON, UNITED STATES
Price     $14.99
UPC      088586621840
Score   87/100
Remarks           Flavours of nectarine and green apple skin; perfect with spicy Asian dishes.

WEINGUT LORCH RIESLING BERGZABERNER ALTENBERG 2005, PFALZ, GERMANY
Price     $12.99
UPC      04001976706299
Score   87/100
Remarks           Nectarine, peach, mineral, apple and slate flavours. Great riesling value.

GUSTAV ADOLF SCHMITT NIERSTEINER RIESLING SPATLESE LATE HARVEST 2005, RHEINHESSEN, GERMANY
Price     $13.25
UPC      742881010159
Score   87/100
Remarks           Solid drink if a touch flabby. Try with Indian curry.

KRUGER-RUMPF MÜNSTERER KAPELLENBERG RIESLING KABINETT 2005, NAHE, GERMANY
Price     $24.95
UPC      4024831125066
Score   90/100
Remarks           Floral, red apple, baked peach juicy fruit flavours.

SELBACH-OSTER ZELTINGER SONNENUHR RIESLING AUSLESE 2005, MOSEL-SAAR-RUWER, GERMANY
Price     $27.84
UPC      00626566802324
Score   90/100
Remarks           Drink now or keep for 10-15 years. Solid value.