Riesling Rendezvous

The darling of European royalty has long since been out of favour with commoners who, according to people in the know, remain confused about sugar/sweetness and acid levels and which foods if any they can serve with riesling. Earlier this week I spent a couple of days in Seattle exploring modern-day riesling with a global gathering of the who's who in the world of riesling. The issue surrounding riesling sales in the U.S., as it was explained to me, is it comes with baggage, namely an image that all riesling resembles the cheap, bastardized, sweet versions that used to be all you could buy in wine stores.

Far be it from me to judge those who prefer their riesling sweet or fruity, as I preferred to say, but there is far more to this fascinating grape and with help of wineries from Germany, Austria, Australia, New Zealand, Canada and the United States, the tide is changing.

The official home of riesling is Germany, but ironically, it's the fresh floral, fruit flavours of grapes grown outside of Deutschland, in places like Australia, New Zealand, Washington State, New York's Finger Lakes and Canada's Niagara and Okanagan wine regions that are leading the rush back to riesling.

A global return to riesling is all fine with German winemaker Johannes Selbach, a modern-day riesling ambassador who seems to spend an inordinate amount of time in Vancouver and Whistler. Selbach, the proprietor of the Mosel-based Selbach-Oster (at Zeltingen) will take whatever help he can get. According to Selbach, "You don't have to beat down the walls anymore to get people to taste or buy riesling, that's past. Worldwide it's like everybody has put it back on the map. We see new business beyond Japan and Hong Kong in Russia and Asia. "

Could riesling's new-found success have something to do with its ability to pair well with food? Certainly Selbach is enjoying a great deal of success with the Selbach Riesling Dry Fish Label, a wine he designed for food, hence the fish on the label. "Our ideal wine" says Johannes "is one that reflects the parents of the wine -- the mineral-rich slate soil and the ripe, juicy riesling fruit."

Locally, expect more and more riesling to appear in restaurants, thanks to some impressive domestic releases from Joie, Tantalus, Wild Goose, Quails' Gate and CedarCreek in British Columbia and Hidden Bench, Flat Rock, Fielding, Cave Spring, Creekside and Tawse in Ontario.

The Villa Maria Riesling Private Bin 2006 comes from two distinct regions in Marlborough: the higher plains of the Awatere Valley and the old river bed of the Wairau Valley. Look for a crisp, moderately dry and elegant palate. Slate, lime, green apple skin, guava, light diesel and nectarine flavours. Good intensity, aftertaste, balance and very good value.

Locally the St. Hubertus Dry Riesling 2007 comes in a slightly sweeter style with leesy, mineral, green apple, chalky, lime flavours with a zesty, tart finish. A super style for spicy food or you can sip it solo.

South of the border the Chateau Ste. Michelle Riesling 2006 satisfies on many fronts as long as you are looking for a little residual sugar in your glass. Look for fresh lime rind aromas and flavours with a dash of petrol, nectarine skin and mineral. Fresh off-dry, stylish white, perfectly suited spicy food. Super value.

From the home of riesling, Devil's Rock Pfalz Riesling 2006 offers up that petrol/beeswax nose spiked with slate, green apple skin and lemon oil. The entry is creamy and round, the palate off-dry, with mineral, slate, petrol, lemon, buttery flavours. A food wine for the summer patio. Good value.

You get a fair amount of riesling for the price with the Weingüt Lorch (White Label) Riesling Hochgewachs Bergzaberner Altenberg 2007. Look for a fresh dry nose flecked with nectarine and apricot skin and bits of honey. The entry is similar with real freshness nectarines and peachy mineral/slate-y fruit. Fine ripeness.

Finally, the American response along the lines of a white zinfandel is Firehose Riesling 2006. Firehose, as in put out the fire in your mouth with this sweet riesling, isn't exactly subtle but if the dish is hot this sweet peachy soft white with a dusting of riesling character should get the job done. What I don't get is why this "New Release" is a 2006 and cork finished. It should at least be 2007 and finished under screwcap; otherwise what's the point. I'm pretty sure no one young enough or hip enough to drink riesling with Thai, Indian or Chinese food is interested in cork finished riesling.

Price: $17

UPC: 9414416216077

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Guava, light diesel and nectarine flavours with fine intensity.

ST. HUBERTUS DRY RIESLING 2007, EAST KELOWNA, OKANAGAN VALLEY, BRITISH COLUMBIA, CANADA

Price: $15

UPC: 00625259103076

Score: 86/100

Remarks: A refreshing style for food or you can sip this solo.

CHATEAU STE. MICHELLE RIESLING 2006, COLUMBIA VALLEY, WASHINGTON, UNITED STATES

Price: $16

UPC: 088586621840

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Fresh off-dry white perfect for spicy food.

DEVIL'S ROCK PFALZ RIESLING 2006, PFALZ, GERMANY

Price: $12

UPC: 4002301436720

Score: 86/100

Remarks: A food wine for the patio. Good value.

LORCH (WHITE LABEL) RIESLING HOCHGEWACHS BERGZABERNER ALTENBERG 2007, PFALZ, GERMANY

Price: $16

UPC: 04001976706299

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Nectarines and peachy mineral/slate-y fruit.

FIREHOSE RIESLING 2006, CALIFORNIA, UNITED STATES

Price: $16

UPC: 0894509005006

Score: 85/100

Remarks: Sweet peachy soft white with a dusting of riesling character.