Riesling Renaissance

Riesling falls into that category, and despite the protests of many aficionados who believe it deserves better, it remains a poor second cousin to chardonnay everywhere in the country. At the end of a week of gloriously warm weather, I hope you will take matters into your own hands and enjoy a riesling this weekend. Some readers may recall that I recommended a number of excellent rieslings last fall, but the limited quantities bought by the government disappeared in days, robbing many of the chance to taste them. I'm assured today's picks are in better supply -- some are even finding their way on to restaurant wine lists. So maybe, just maybe, the riesling renaissance that writers have been predicting for the last few years is about to begin in earnest. While I find drinking fine riesling extremely pleasurable, it's new territory for many consumers, who somehow think less of themselves unless they're drinking a big, bold red. Perfumed aromas, floral fruit, racy acidity, crisp finishes and sheer elegance may attract the connoisseur, but for those used to heavily oaked, barrel-fermented, creamy chardonnay, making the jump to mouth-watering riesling remains a leap of faith and more. Despite the success riesling enjoys in Germany -- and it is back on top of that market in a big way -- it is the resurgence of this noble variety in other parts of the world that will be the key to reversing its fortunes. British writer Jancis Robinson describes riesling as "indisputably aristocratic and ludicrously unfashionable." There is little one can add to that, except to say it is also undervalued. Today's picks were served to a group of tasters who were essentially unfamiliar with modern-day riesling. The feedback was very positive. One taster told me she hadn't been in the German aisle of her local liquor store in 20 years, but would be heading there the next day. In this weekend's warmth, reach for a riesling and keep an open mind. You will be happy you did. Here's what we found: Muller's Piesporter riesling bears a well-known village name and offers soft, round, peachy fruit. It sacrifices the usual crispness and mineral characters for an easy-summer-sipping style. Chill it well and serve it as guests arrive for dinner. I predict the easy-to-remember Dr. "L" by Ernst Loosen will be a bestseller in B.C. It was a big hit with the panel, which managed to empty the bottle before the tasting was completed. Tangy, piquant, mouth-watering fresh -- they loved it. As good as it is now, it will get better with age, and it's terrific value. This should be on the wine list of every Asian restaurant in the country. The hardworking Johannes Selbach has been visiting Canada two or three times a year trying to jump-start the riesling revolution with his fruit-juicy Mosel wines. The Detzemer is another solid summer sipper, brimming with juicy, green apple fruit and zingy acidity. A delicious bargain. Rainer Lingenfelder rules the Pfalz and his new "Bird Label" version gives us a chance to learn more about the style of his region's wines. In less than three years, this wine, with a friendly label, has become an international hit. Apple, passionfruit, lime and honey are all found both on the nose and in the flavour. The panel liked its instant drinkability. The Valckenberg is from Deidesheim in the Pfalz. The 1997 is extremely racy and juicy, with lots of lime rind and other citrus flavours. Another fresh, clean white that will tickle the taste buds. Stocks of the 1997 vintage are dwindling, but the 1999 is already waiting in the wings. Valckenberg is dropping "Deidesheim" from the '99 label, joining other German exporters who are aggressively moving to simplify their wines' names. Finally, the serious and reserved Hanno Zilliken makes outstanding riesling in the classic, dry style with piercing mineral flavours. His everyday riesling, which arrived in B.C. this week, is fashioned in a similar style, with perhaps a touch less austerity than you would find in the upscale Zilliken estate wines. Look for a bit of petrol (petroleum jelly) upfront, followed by intense apricot pit and lemon/lime freshness in the finish. Nervous, dry, fresh and intense. Drink now or a decade from now. Great value. WEEKEND WINE TASTING: Producer: Rudolf Muller 1999 Piesporter Goldtropfchen Kabinett, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Price: $14.95 Stock No.: 936922 Score: 13.5/20 Comments: Soft, round, peachy fruit. Producer: Dr. Loosen 2000 Dr. "L," Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Price: $14.95 Stock No.: 599274 Score: 16/20 Comments: Green apples, honey, cream. Producer: Selbach 1999 Detzemer Maximiner Klosterlay Spatlese, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Price: $14.95 Stock No.: 390930 Score: 15/20 Comments: Zingy, juicy fruit. Producer: Lingenfelder 1999 Bird Label, Pfalz Price: $14.95 Stock No.: 568634 Score: 14/20 Comments: Apples and passionfruit. Producer: Valckenberg 1997 Riesling, Deidesheim, Pfalz Price: $14.95 Stock No.: 541656 Score: 14/20 Comments: Delicious, juicy stone-fruit flavours. Producer: Zilliken Forstmeister Geltz 1999 Riesling QBA Price: $14.95 Stock No.: 599266 Score: 14.5/20 Comments: Sleek mineral-based flavours.