Rhone Reds Are Back From the Dead

Historically, the "Côte du Rhône" was an administrative district in the Gard region where the wines were thought to be particularly renowned. As early as 1650 regulations were put in place to guarantee the origin and quality of the region's wine. In fact, an Edict of the King in 1737 stated that all casks used to hold and sell the regional wine be branded with the letters "C.D.R.".

By the middle of the 19th century that Côte du Rhône became Côtes du Rhône and not only included the beloved right bank planted by the Romans but all the vineyards along the left bank of the river too. In 1937 a gentleman known as Baron Le Roy, created the AOC or Appellation d'origine Contrôlée Côtes du Rhône and the game was on.

In all, some 24 grapes have the legal right to be grown in the Côtes du Rhône appellation although the most likely to make it into the blend these days are: grenache cinsault, counoise, mourvèdre, syrah and carignan.

Cotes du Rhone is the broadest appellation of the region and while it includes all the famous northern appellations, such as Hermitage, St Joseph and Cote Rôtie the majority of the wine come from the southern reaches of the warm, windswept valley.

If syrah is the star performer in the northern Rhone, it's the grenache grape that dominates in the south. Grenache or garnacha as its known in Spain is the second most widely planted grape in the world and it's perfectly suited to the torrid climate of the southern Rhône valley. It's also the focus of most of today's picks.

From the makers of La Fiole Châteauneuf-du-Pape comes Laurent Charles Brotte Côtes du Rhone Les Brottiers 2003 made entirely with grenache. The nose is a smoky, meaty, gamey affair with floral black cherry, black raspberry notes and a big whiff of dried spices and barnyard. It soft and supple on the palate with more spicy, tobacco, chocolate, prune, dried cherry and peppery flavours. It's ready to drink and would be perfect with most meat stews.

A mix of syrah, grenache and carignan contribute to the floral, peppery, meaty, black licorice, thyme aromas of Du Peloux Terres du Rhone Côtes du Rhône 2004. Soft and easy sipping it is slightly fat on entry with smoky, peppery, gamey, black cherry and orange flavours. It finishes a bit dry and slightly tannic. You can chalk the rough edges up to youth but they are easily tamed by any grilled meat dish or pizza.

A delicious find this week from the Gard is the Mas de Guiot Grenache Syrah 2005 at the affordable price of $15. The blend is 60/40,  syrah/grenache,  the nose a mix of smoky, spicy, garrigue notes flecked with floral, black raspberry, licorice and chocolate notes. It's warm, fat and dry in the mouth with black cherry, peppery, licorice, orange peel, thyme and sausage flavours. A good value wine you can sip solo or serve alongside a cassoulet or beef stew.

Black raspberry, (grenache) meaty, prune, savoury notes mark the entry of the Heritage des Caves des Papes 2003. The blend here is grenache syrah and it offers up a mix of floral, black cherry, licorice, meaty, orange compote flavours streaked with a resiny, garrigue finish. Pork ribs would be the match here.

The Domaine La Garrigue Cuvée Romaine 2004 appears to thrive on its grenache, syrah, mourvèdre, cinsault blend. You pay more but you get more in the form of a ripe, warm red with some grainy tannins and mineral, black cherry, spicy, floral, licorice, chocolate, prune flavours. It has fine concentration and intensity but it's young. Consider laying away a few bottles for a year or two or serve now with duck confit or lamb roast.

Similarly priced and styled is the Domaine de Beaurenard 2004. The nose is very spicy with flecks of cooked black cherry, licorice root, and dark chocolate and mineral aromas. The palate is full and meaty with smoky, mineral, black licorice and orange compote flavours. It's a bit youthful tannic but has good fruit. Needs 1-2 years, a more serious style.

LAURENT CHARLES BROTTE CÔTES DU RHONE LES BROTTIERS 2003, RHONE VALLEY, FRANCE
Price $13.87
UPC 3217661027797
Score 86/100
Remarks    Chocolate, prune, dried cherry, rootsy, peppery flavours.

DU PELOUX TERRES DU RHONE CÔTES DU RHÔNE 2004, RHONE VALLEY, FRANCE
Price $14.99
UPC 3288611011029
Score 86/100
Remarks    Solid meat and pizza wine.

MAS DE GUIOT GRENACHE SYRAH 2005, VIN DE PAYS DU GARD, FRANCE
Price $14.99
UPC 087396004171
Score 88/100
Remarks    Chocolate, black fruit, licorice, orange peel, thyme and sausage flavours.

HERITAGE DES CAVES DES PAPES CÔTES DU RHÔNE, RHONE VALLEY, FRANCE
Price $17.99
UPC 714320135006
Score 87/100
Remarks    Flank steak special.

DOMAINE LA GARRIGUE CUVÉE ROMAINE CÔTES DU RHÔNE 2004, RHONE VALLEY, FRANCE
Price $19.95
UPC 3760088010021
Score 88/100
Remarks    Try now with duck confit or lamb roast.

DOMAINE DE BEAURENARD CÔTES DU RHÔNE 2004, RHONE VALLEY, FRANCE
Price $20.85
UPC 3368883100017
Score 88/100
Remarks    Black cherry, smoky, mineral, licorice, orange compote flavours.