Red, White and Turkey

In my estimation, the wines of the world have never tasted better and when it comes to selection, the number of quality labels in our market has never been higher.

It's not a perfect story, especially with so many prices out of whack, but I can't think of a better time since I began buying wine back in the 1970s to be a wine drinker.

For those of you roasting the traditional stuffed bird this holiday weekend, the question of which wine to serve has never been easier to answer, nor more fun to experiment with.

Though there is no colour consensus when it comes to the classic turkey wine match -- be it red or white, you can't go wrong with either as long as you avoid the big tannic, monster reds and/or, the heavily oaked whites.

In recent times, pinot noir has been touted by some to be the perfect turkey wine, although it's the fruity versions that work the best and that usually means New World picks from California, New Zealand and Chile.

At the other end of the scale there is gewurztraminer, with its spice and fruit that can conquer the intense flavours and aromas of a roasted bird.

In between, zinfandel, riesling, viognier, negroamaro, grenache shiraz and malbec will all look good on the table. If you can read behind the lines, it's the fruity examples that will excel with turkey as opposed to the dry, tannic offerings.

When you think about it, the most complimentary dish on the table and the one that best sets off turkey is usually fresh cranberry sauce. That's because the fruity but tart flavours of cranberry cut through the oily quality of turkey meat, not to mention grandma's favourite dressing and gravy, to refresh your palate.

Yin and yang are at the heart of our picks today, along with prominent availability in local government-run stores. Good hunting.

We begin with the Langhorne Crossing Chardonnay Riesling Verdelho 2004. There is fine value here in what is essentially a fruit-driven sipper. The riesling and verdelho lift the fruit component in the glass, leaving the chardonnay to provide texture and carry finish. Look for its bright, crisp, tropical fruit flavours to be the perfect foil to the savoury nuances of the turkey.

The regular Domini 2002 is fermented in stainless steel, mixing fruit from the Rio Torto and Pinhao regions of the Douro all aged six months in used oak. This is a soft, inviting red with savoury, plummy flavours. It's quite round in the mouth with a warm, earthy, red-fruit finish. Simple but well-structured, it should stand up to the dark hind quarters of the bird.

After a couple of disappointing efforts, the latest Lindemans Bin 50 Shiraz 2005 is back on track led by its spicy, blackberry, black cherry and licorice aromas. It is warm and round on the palate with soft, ripe, blackberry, plum and pudding flavours. It has a fresh, easy-drinking style with good fruit and a touch of sweetness to tame the spicy bird.

Cabernet franc fans may want to consider the current-edition Wits End The Procrastinator 2005. This McLaren Vale red comes with a lifted cherry, spicy, tobacco, peppery nose and super soft, supple textures. This is a solid, fruity-style red with just enough acidity to cut through the rich, oily textures of the bird.

Belle Glos Pinot Noir Clark and Telephone Vineyard 2004 is Santa Barbara pinot made by the folks who own Caymus, Napa Valley. Look for a rich, smoky, vanilla, cherry jam nose with flecks of tea leaf, spice, licorice and orange. It's exceeding soft and supple with strawberry, spicy, cola, vanilla and carrot flavours, and is long and fine in the mouth with plenty of finesse and complexity. This will improve in bottle over the next few years, but in the meantime it should be decanted 45 minutes before you carve the turkey.

We close with an International Value Wine Award winner, the Marchesi de' Frescobaldi Chianti Tenuta di Castiglioni 2004. Tenuta di Castiglioni is the oldest Frescobaldi Estate, with roots that date back to 1032. The blend is new Tuscany -- 45 per cent sangiovese, 45 per cent cabernet sauvignon and 10 per cent merlot and petit verdot. It's exceedingly rich and well-structured with fine fruity, jammy chocolate overtures and plenty of finesse. A terrific bottle to celebrate with friends and most of all to give thanks.

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LANGHORNE CROSSING CHARDONNAY RIESLING VERDELHO 2004, LANGHORNE CREEK, SOUTH AUSTRALIA
Price: $11.89
UPC: 9316475002953
Score 86/100
Remarks: Bright, crisp tropical fruit flavours at a great price.

DOMINI 2002, DOURO SUPERIOR, DOURO VALLEY, NORTHERN PORTUGAL
Price: $15.90
UPC: 600470240007
Score: 87/100
Remarks: Look for a soft, inviting red with savoury notes and plummy flavours.

LINDEMANS BIN 50 SHIRAZ 2005, SOUTH EASTERN AUSTRALIA
Price: $11.86 or $24.78 1.5L
UPC: 012354087651
Score: 86/100
Remarks: Fresh, easy-drinking style with good fruit and a touch of sweetness.

WITS END THE PROCRASTINATOR 2005, MCLAREN VALE, SOUTH AUSTRALIA
Price: $20.99
UPC: 9335363003049
Score: 88/100
Remarks: Soft, round, supple textures on the palate with cherry, smoky, earthy, leafy flavours.

BELLE GLOS PINOT NOIR CLARK AND TELEPHONE VINEYARD 2004, SANTA MARIA VALLEY, SANTA BARBARA COUNTY, CALIF.
Price: $48.57
UPC: 00855622000316
Score: 92/100
Remarks: Delicious, but serious, California pinot.

MARCHESI DE' FRESCOBALDI CHIANTI TENUTA DI CASTIGLIONI 2004, TUSCANY, ITALY
Price: $26.76
UPC: 8007425000334
Score: 90/100
Remarks: Exceedingly rich and well-structured with fruity, jammy chocolate overtures.