Real Wine at Realistic Prices

Every time you walk into a wine store in B.C., you should pick up a bottle of Yellowtail chardonnay or shiraz and give thanks to its success.

The runaway brand (sales worldwide will top 12.5 million cases in 2005) has awakened a slew of sleepy -- some might say lazy -- producers and distributors who have been getting fat selling over-hyped, overpriced wine trading on the reputation (but not the quality) of a famous higher-priced label and/or appellation.

Yellowtail's influence is so overwhelming, it is forcing most of its competitors to meet or beat its price with wine that would normally be selling for more. Where you really win is when the competition tries to cut price and raise quality.

No one should get the idea that every $9 or even $10 to $12 wine is outstanding. Very few can garner such a rating, but if you can pick off the winners, there is no doubt that what's available now is so far ahead of the plonk we were drinking 20 years ago that we all win. And what Yellowtail is doing is focusing every sector of the wine business to revaluate its product as they desperately search for an increased share of the market.

All of today's picks illustrate this. The first three labels sell for less than $10. The remaining trio, although slightly more expensive, similarly offer value and style that simply did not exist a decade or two ago.

Argentina has a history of Italian immigration, so it's no surprise grapes such as sangiovese and bonarda are grown there. I have always enjoyed this Mendoza blend that has mostly gone nowhere in this market, because it takes more work on the part of the retailer and the distributor to sell than just listing it.

Hopefully, the Vina Antigua Sangiovese - Bonarda 2003 will break the impasse. Look for smoky, stewed jasmine, floral notes with a spicy leather undercurrent. This is a soft, dry, light-bodied red with peppery, licorice and black cherry flavours. It's the perfect mid-week barbecue red, or serve it with pepperoni pizza. This is tough to top at under $9.

The Italian version of easy-drinking red comes in the form of Mezzomondo Salento 2003. Its gamey, meaty, smoky prune and black cherry flavour over-delivers for the price. It's warm and rustic -- all in all, a solid red wine bargain.

Some grapes perform better than others in certain price brackets. Malbec, at least in Argentina, appears to be one such variety that performs admirably at the lower end.

A case in point is Finca Los Primos Malbec 2003. You'll appreciate its spicy, black cherry aromas, round, almost fat, supple textures and intense with smoky, peppery, black cherry jam, mushroom and licorice root flavours. This is a hearty red with flavour and intensity that far exceeds its price point.

West Coast diners are always looking for a clean, fresh, fruity white wine that will pair up with spicy Asian or Far East-influenced dishes that permeate our food culture. With the new release of the Mission Hill Five Vineyards Dry Riesling 2003, we have one.

You should enjoy the fresh green apple, peach/honey, clover aromas that persist throughout the wine. It's round, elegant and fairly dry in style with fine acidity and balance. This is the kind of riesling we've been waiting for from B.C. (at a realistic price, I might add) and now it comes with a screwcap closure that clearly enhances the delicate fruit flavours of our region.

Why anybody in B.C. making delicate, serious, fruity signature-style "B.C." white wine is not using a screwcap closure that allows them to deliver that style, unencumbered from any cork taint, is beyond me.

Another Spanish red making inroads with consumers is the Rubens Tempranillo 2003 from La Mancha. Its spicy, black raspberry jam and smoky aromas come with some gamey animal and reduced rubbery notes that tend to dissipate in the glass -- so decant this wine if possible for 30 minutes. On the palate, it is soft, round and supple with black raspberry jam and coffee flavours with a meaty dry dusty finish. A wine for grilled meats or perhaps spaghetti and meatballs.

Sicily continues to improve its output and the latest example is the Zonin Nero d'Avola 2002. The nose is a riot of curry leaf, cardamom, gamey, peppery black cherry aromas. The flavours -- black cherry jam, chocolate and licorice root -- are streaked with a touch of almond. It's young yet well-balanced, perfect for roast lamb.

Weekend Wine Tasting: Super Buys

Wine   Vina Antigua Sangiovese - Bonarda 2003, Maipu, Mendoza, Argentina

Price   $8.99

UPC    7793918000035

Score  85/100

Remarks        Simple barbeque meat or pepperoni pizza wine. Good value.

Wine   Mezzomondo Salento 2003, Apulia, Italy

Price   $9.95

UPC    8032610311346

Score  86/100

Remarks        A warm, rustic Italian red.

Wine   Finca Los Primos Malbec 2003, San Rafael, Mendoza, Argentina

Price   $9.95

UPC    7790703167195

Score  87/100

Remarks        Rich, supple, fat and intense with smoky, peppery, black cherry jam.

Wine   Mission Hill Five Vineyards Dry Riesling 2003, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada

Price   $12.99

UPC    776545995070

Score  87/100

Remarks        Elegant, dry style with mineral, nectarine, honey, floral flavours.

Wine   Rubens Tempranillo 2003, La Mancha, Castilla-La Mancha, Spain

Price   $14.99

UPC    8437004820037

Score  86/100

Remarks        Supple entry with chocolate, prunes, black raspberry jam flavours.

Wine   Zonin Nero d'Avola 2002, Sicily, Italy

Price   $14.99

UPC    8002235015042

Score  87/100

Remarks        Lots of spicy, peppery, black cherry jam, chocolate and licorice root.