Ready Set Riesling

I thought it might be appropriate given how under-represented it is as a varietal wine on restaurant wine lists and well, now that you can BYOW to many restaurants, I'm encouraging you to bag, bottle and drag a bottle of Riesling to your favourite Thai, Chinese, Indian and or Pan Asian restaurant and experience how well it works with the food.

Riesling has a lot going for it, not the least of which its traditional long thin bottle shape takes up less room in the refrigerator. Even better, your mom will thank you for bringing the wine home for dinner, or pre-dinner drinks. It is particularly good for warm summer evenings at the cabin and even better for warm summer evenings in the city. Finally, it tastes the way Chardonnay should - fruity, not oaky.

I'm a year-round fan of Riesling but for many their first favourable exposure usually comes when the weather turns gloriously warm, as it has in the last few days. Here's hoping you take matters into your own hands and enjoy a Riesling this weekend.

The biggest issue surrounding Riesling is that it comes with baggage, namely an image that all Riesling resembles the cheap, bastardized, sweet versions that used to be all you could buy in wine shops. Those days are gone. Although it has long since been supplanted by Chardonnay and even Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling has never lost its nobility as a grape, thus creating hope for its return to stardom and store shelves.

Far be it from me to judge those who prefer their Riesling sweet or fruity, but there is far more to this fascinating grape. Germany has long been the home base of this nervous white but in recent years we have seen extreme viticulture open up countless examples from Austria, Australia, New Zealand, Canada, Chile and the United States.

Call it a revolution or an evolution, but as more and more varietal wines begin to look alike, Riesling is returning to the limelight with its electric personality and an uncanny ability to pair well with a variety of multicultural cuisines we in Canada enjoy on a daily basis.

The better news is the once dismal government selection has been overhauled of late while private wine shops continue to fill the void matching growing interest from their customers. No matter how you view Riesling, it is now a bona fide, varietal wine choice in British Columbia. Local wineries are really paying attention to rising consumer interest in Riesling and many are beginning to tailor their production style to the drier, crisper, more modern examples that are doing so well in the market.

Just for fun, grab your favourite Thai takeout and a bottle of Rudolf Müller Bunny Riesling 2011 from the Pfalz in Germany. We loved the last edition in 2010, despite the bunny graphic, and the 2011 is equally beguiling, mixing freshly squeezed lemon-lime flavours with nectarines and yellow flowers. The attack is crisp and juicy with more prominent floral, cool fruit flavours and a crisp finish. Crazy value here in a barely off-dry version. Stock up for warm days.

What can you say about The Bishop of Riesling 2011 from Germany's Mosel-Saar-Ruwer region? Well you can start with the fact this is priced at $12. You can add freshness and vitality in what is a simple but complete wine that is just off-dry on entry. The mid-pal-ate is a tasty mix of acidity and fruit with flavours of citrus and ripe baked apple and pear with just a hint of flatness and sugar in the finish. Try this with grilled pork or spicy sushi.

You won't find the Heitlinger Riesling Trocken Shiny River 2011 from Baden in government stores but look for it in private wine shops. Surprisingly fresh and lively for Baden, it has a distinct trocken (dry) edge. I love the dry nectarine skin aromas and flavours and its sleek earthy mid-palate and clean fresh finish. A super food wine for fish, chicken and pasta, you name it. This wine will improve most menus. Drink now. Good value.

The Pierre Sparr Extrem Riesling 2010 is another delicious version of this cut-ting edge Alsace Riesling finally listed in B.C. Expect a full fresh floral nose with intriguing honey, pear, citrus, spicy and waxy aromas. The attack is dry and lively with elegance and fine acidity. More slate-y steel-y honey, citrus, guava flavours mark the palate before a long tasty finish. All under screw cap, this is great bottle for the price. Pick your favourite food, any food; you can't go wrong.

Our penultimate Riesling is the iconic Pewsey Vale Individual Vineyard Selection Riesling 2011 from Eden Valley in South Australia. Expect a thoroughly delicious edition of this crisp, dry Riesling from a special site in the Eden Valley. So bright and floral, lime, mineral, slate-y aromas. The attack is intense with lemon grass, lime rind, mineral, nectarine skin flavours. A little more approachable this year, it should be a hit here on the West Coast. Think halibut, crab pasta, grilled scallops and a variety of sushi dishes.

We end with Tantalus Riesling 2011 from the eco-friendly East Kelowna winery. Typically at the extreme end of freshness and acidity. Pure, electric mineral floral citrus green apple fruit without any overpowering sulphur yeah. The attack is textbook crisp and clean with vibrant delicious flavours that combine lemon, honey, lime and green apple and tangerine notes. A juicy mouth-watering style made for food. A super effort.

OUR PICKS

Rudolf Müller Bunny Riesling 2011, Pfalz, Germany

Price: $10

UPC: 04006542052282

Score: 86/100

Remarks: Crazy value here in a barely off-dry version.

The Bishop of Riesling 2011, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Germany

Price: $12

UPC: 4006542053654

Score: 86/100

Remarks: Flavours of citrus and ripe baked apple and pear with just a hint of sugar.

Heitlinger Riesling Trocken Shiny River 2011, Baden, Germany

Price: $18 private store only

UPC: 004040409211016

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Love the dry nectarine skin aromas and flavours.

Pierre Sparr Extrem Riesling 2010, Alsace, France

Price: $20

UPC: 003263530020420

Score: 89/100

Remarks: Full fresh floral nose with intriguing honey, pear, citrus, spicy aromas.

Pewsey Vale Individual Vineyard Selection Riesling 2011, Eden Valley, South Australia

Price: $24

UPC: 09311789000190

Score: 89/100

Remarks: Think halibut, crab pasta, grilled scallops and a variety of sushi dishes.

Tantalus Riesling 2011, East Kelowna, Okanagan Valley

Price: $23.00

UPC: 626990067412

Score: 90/100

Remarks: A juicy mouth-watering style made for food. Super effort.

Read more: http://www.vancouversun.com/life/Riesling+perfect+summer/7042213/story.html#ixzz24akvUZ48