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Anthony Gismondi on Wine

Holiday entertaining sits atop just about everyone's agenda, and if you're planning to stock your wine cellar for use during the next month, the time to shop is now.

Holiday entertaining sits atop just about everyone's agenda, and if you're planning to stock your wine cellar for use during the next month, the time to shop is now. There's but one theme that links today's selections: they're tasty wines that won't destroy your budget. How's that for a welcome Christmas treat?

 

But you do have to act with speed -- the good buys sell out fast. For those who don't already know, managers of B.C. Liquor Stores have the power to order in any wine they want, as long as they order a case. So if you can't find any of your favourites on the shelves, ask him or her to get a case shipped in to your local store.

 

Today's picks begin with two whites -- one is fast becoming the party wine of the year; the other is a good example of new-wave, fruit-packed, sauvignon blanc from South America.

 

Casella Wines is not a household name in North America, but the Australian winery's Yellow Tail brand should quickly become one. It's not often that a winery hits a home run with both taste and packaging, but the Yellow Tail 2002 Chardonnay manages both.

 

Look for that expressive, open, peach-and-melon fruit nose so typical of inexpensive Oz chardonnay, with plenty of soft "sweet" buttery/melon fruit in the flavour. It's a perfect pre-dinner sipper and the price is a bargain.

 

The Tarapaca 2001 Sauvignon Blanc is a slightly more vivacious drink, made from two clones of sauvignon vines, one American-based; the other French.

 

Fresh pineapple and citrus flavours jump out of the glass, and it has a smooth, long, appealing finish. It's easy sipping and dirt-cheap for the quality. The winery recommends white fish, cooked shellfish or mild cheese as an accompaniment, but it also works solo as an apéritif.

 

From Sicily comes a workhorse, everyday pizza red, Rustica 2001 Rosso, made mostly from the nero d'Avola grape. The nose is an earthy mix of cherries and sausage meat aromas, with streaks of licorice in the background. It's firm and dry on the palate with more cherry and licorice in the aftertaste.

 

Next, from France's Caves des Vignerons de Tavel, is Les Lauzeraies 2000 Lirac. This is another Southern Rhône winner from the 2000 vintage, with a spicy, earthy, gamy, black raspberry aroma and hints of anise. The textures are soft and inviting; the flavour savoury and spicy, with a peppery raspberry-cherry finish. A terrific dinner wine.

 

Stock up, because bargains from the south of France and Italy will soon be a thing of the past due to the ever-escalating Euro.

 

Australian wine giant Southcorp (along with many of its peers) isn't taking any chances with its market share this holiday season -- the evidence is a $1 cut in the price of one of its best-selling labels, Penfolds 2001 Koonunga Hill Shiraz Cabernet.

 

The 52/48 blend offers a sweaty leather and cassis aroma, with green bean undertones. It's smooth and balanced on the palate, with an earthy, peppery, black raspberry flavour and a touch of licorice. This solid effort makes easy drinking, and it's certainly good value at the new price.

 

The Tatachilla 2001 Breakneck Creek Shiraz is another new Oz listing worth checking out. It has open, spicy, sappy, sweet fruit aromas reminiscent of raspberry and cassis. Its sweet, smoky raspberry flavours slip down easily, before finishing a touch lean. Although its aromas and flavours are intense, be warned the Tatachilla lacks the usual plush character many associate with Oz shiraz. Serving it with food is the best route.

 

WINES FOR HOME ENTERTAINING

 

Producer: Yellow Tail 2002 Chardonnay, southeastern Australia

Price: $12.95

Stock Number: 839743000028

Score: 14.5/20

Comments: Party on.

 

Producer: Tarapaca 2001 Sauvignon Blanc La Isla, Maipo Valley, Chile

Price: $12.95

Stock Number: 633567905022

Score: 15/20

Comments: Great flavours, great value.

 

Producer: Rustica 2001 Rosso, Sicily, Italy

Price: $9.99

Stock Number: 8032610310349

Score: 14/20

Comments: Good value pizza red.

 

Producer: Caves des Vignerons de Tavel 2000 Les Lauzeraies Lirac, Lirac, France

Price: $16.95

Stock Number: 3399610132506

Score: 16/20

Comments: Perfect balance of fruit and structure.

 

Producer: Penfolds 2001 Koonunga Hill Shiraz Cabernet, southeastern Australia

Price: $16.95

Stock Number: 012345071445

Score: 15/20

Comments: Smooth, peppery black raspberry fruit.

 

Producer: Tatachilla 2001 Breakneck Creek Shiraz, south Australia

Price: $14.95

Stock Number: 9313048363015

Score: 15/20

Comments: Lean smoky peppery raspberry flavours.

Written By: ag
Anthony Gismondi
Anthony Gismondi

Anthony Gismondi is a Canadian wine journalist and one of North America's most influential voices in wine. For over 30 years, he has been the wine columnist for The Vancouver Sun. The twice-weekly column is distributed across Canada through the Postmedia Network to millions of readers. In addition, Anthony hosts the BC Food & Wine Radio Show, broadcast in 25 markets across B.C. and available as a podcast on major platforms. He launched Gismondionwine.com in 1997, attracting one million monthly users from 114 countries. It continues to be a valuable resource full of tasting notes, intelligent wine stories and videos for the trade and consumers. Conversations with wine personalities are available on his  YouTube Channel.