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Not to beat a dead horse, but the wine world continues to adjust as a result of the continuing worldwide recession.
In short, luxury wine remains in a slump. I don't mean the $10 brands the hucksters term "premium" or the $15 bottles they designate "super-premium," but the expensive stuff that costs well over $30.
Prices are soft as wineries continue to clear out unsold stock from one -- and in some cases, two or three -- vintages. And need we remind anyone, a new harvest is only days away in the northern hemisphere.
That said, most premium wine producers are still loath to cut prices, at least publicly, in the same manner that clothing retailers might mark down their latest designer fashions to clear the shelves. Wineries believe if you are paying $60 for their wine, and suddenly it is for sale at $30, you might never pay $60 again.
They could be right.
One of the sales tools open to producers is to discount their wines to restaurants and retailers with the understanding that retail prices, be they in stores or restaurants, remain fairly stable. Since there are never any "sales" in B.C. government liquor stores, it's easier to keep up appearances, as the Joneses might say, even if you are giving it away out the back door of the winery. Anecdotal evidence would suggest local prices are at least easing. VQA wine stores are marking down the price of older stock, hoping to clear the shelves before the next vintage. After more than 20 years of consecutive price increases, some inspired by quality and some by lack of quantity, it is safe to say B.C. wine prices will undoubtedly continue to soften into late 2010.
Wineries are hopeful that restaurants that have not been buying any wine but rather living off their extensive wine cellars for the last year are ready to restock their cellars. Perhaps more importantly, the question is, when will wine consumers return to spending the kind of money they did before the recession? Many have downshifted and been pleasantly surprised by the quality of wines they can buy for half the price they are used to paying.
It's going to be an interesting recovery anyway you look at it. One thing is for sure in the age of instant information: Hosing wine customers won't be nearly as easy as it used to be. Today, we look at some wines that are wonderful substitutes for luxury wines, and some wines whose prices are moderating.
The Ricossa Barbaresco 2005 is likely the best Piedmont deal in this market. Ripe and full with a slightly dry tannic palate, it is awash in smoky, meaty, black cherry, balsamic, tobacco and coffee flavours. A bit acidic and rustic, it would be fine with roast beef. Great value for Barbaresco.
Most of us do not think of Pinot Gris when we think of Argentina, in fact we hardly think about white wine. The Bodega Lurton Pinot Gris 2009, from the Valle de Uco, should change all that. Its floral/nectarine skin nose previews a juicy style with fine acidity and a bit of sweetness. Citrus, slate, nectarine, pear and chalky flavours abound. Think seafood here or sip it with tapas-style appetizers.
Adding cabernet to the malbec mix freshens up the Santa Julia Organica Malbec Cabernet 2009. Love the spicy, mocha, black cherry notes with more floral undercurrents; and the rich soft underbelly of the Malbec is stiffened by the Cabernet. A rich, savoury, tasty barbecue red with a soft, jammy, licorice finish. Another fine effort from Zuccardi that punches well above its price range again.
French wines, like the Pavillon Arnaud Minervois 2008, a blend of Syrah and Grenache, are making a comeback. You will love the spicy, licorice nose with black cherry, floral and cardamom aromas and its round easy-sipping fresh palate painted with black raspberry, plum, peppery fruit flecked with orange peel. Try this one with pork or turkey dishes. Big value.
If you want to taste something completely different, reach for the Boutari Santorini White 2009 and its nutty, grassy, chalky, floral/lemon and quince aromas. On the palate it is dry and rich with a fresh, slightly oily/juicy palate. Lemon oil, butter, nutty quince and apricot flavours with a chalky, pear note dominate the palate. The Greeks know the sea and this wine is the perfect seafood partner. Take a chance and try this exciting bottle.
We conclude with Escudo Rojo 2008, a blended red from the Valle del Maipo in Chile. In 2008 Escudo Rojo mixes fruit from Rapel and Maipo totalling Cabernet Sauvignon (40 per cent), Carmenère (37 per cent), Syrah (18 per cent) and Cabernet Franc (five per cent). Expect an intense nose of black raspberry flecked with bits of spice and tobacco. The latest vintage shows more elegance and style than previous years and no strong leafy characters. Ripe black cherries and toasted oak mark its long mid-palate and finish. Roast lamb is the ticket here or serve with a favourite aged, hard cheese.
Recession or not, there has never been a better choice of quality wine to choose from. All you have to do is be brave enough to reach for something new.
OUR PICKS
Ricossa Barbaresco 2005, Piedmont, Italy
Price $22
UPC 08032610318079
Score 87/100
Remarks A bit rustic but lots there is lots of intensity for the money.
Bodega Lurton Pinot Gris 2009, Valle de Uco, Tunuyán, Mendoza, Argentina
Price $12.50
UPC 00635335320211
Score 87/100
Remarks Juicy citrus, slate, nectarine, pear, chalky flavours. Great value.
Santa Julia Organica Malbec - Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, Mendoza, Argentina
Price $15
UPC 77917280118141
Score 87/100
Remarks A tasty barbecue red that punches well above its price range.
Pavillon Arnaud Minervois 2008, Languedoc, France
Price $14
UPC 003045710019253
Score 87/100
Remarks Black raspberry and plums in a glass.
Boutari Santorini White 2009, Aegean Islands - Santorini, Greece
Price $20
UPC 5201022565217
Score 88/100
Remarks A unique style that is well worth investigating
Escudo Rojo 2008, Valle del Maipo, Region del Valle Central, Chile
Price $18
UPC 00812485000013
Score 89/100
Remarks Roast lamb is the ticket here; or serve with a favourite aged cheese.
