Port for the Holidays

It began in the 17th century when certain privileges were given to British merchants to establish trade between England and Portugal. In the case of Taylor it began in 1692 in the upper reaches of the Douro. Taylor bought its first estate in 1744 in the ultra-remote Douro Valley and it has been a going concern ever since.

I've been waiting to present the Taylor portfolio for a number of weeks, after tasting all the wines in early November and with the arrival of the 2009 ports, it is time. I will add that most forms of port make great holiday gifts because it is not a wine we buy for ourselves all that often. Late Bottle Vintage Port is an unusual but always welcome host gift that you can wrap and take to any party.

The recent arrival of cold weather in the province, including snow in many localities, is another sign that a bottle of port should be available on sideboards and pantries across the region to take the chill off the evening air. Think fireplace, good book, and glass of port with a piece of fruit cake or some almonds.

Beyond that, the Fladgate Partnership, which includes the ports of Fonseca and Croft, have boldly declared 2009 to be a vintage port year and these ultimate collector's wines are just arriving in British Columbia. CEO Adrian Bridge says "2009 has produced stunning vintage ports. It will be remembered as a year of low yields, resulting from the very dry summer, and this has produced wines of massive scale, with deep inky colour, impressive tannin 'grip' and wonderful fruit quality. These are wines built for the long term, like the great iconic vintages of the early 20th century."

Given the amazing ability of vintage port to age effortlessly two or three decades in bottle, they can be great gifts to mark a wedding anniversary, the birth of grandchildren or simply a momentous moment in life. Today we cover a series of styles and tastes at several price points with an emphasis on Taylor and Fonseca. All would be welcomed by collectors.

Taylor Fladgate Fine White Port N/V is a mix of obscure white grapes grown mainly on the upper slopes of the Douro Valley. Each variety is aged solo in oak vats for about three years. Taylor pioneered dry white aperitif port more than 60 years ago under the Chip Dry label, first blended in 1934 but the "The Special White Port" is a much sweeter version. Look for a fresh floral anise nose with bits of vanilla and caramel throughout. It's delicious served over ice with a slice of lemon and a touch of soda. The ice and soda reduce the alcohol and the lemon freshens the palate.

The Taylor Fladgate First Estate Reserve Port is a "vintage character"' blend of selected wine aged in both vats and casks made in a drink-menow manner that maintains the famous, full-bodied house style. It is packed with bright, fragrant black fruits with a dash of molasses, licorice and spice, à la Christmas cake. Serve nightly alongside a great read in front of the fireplace. It also makes for a great sipper when you are wrapping gifts.

The Fonseca Terra Prima Reserve Port N/V is the only "Reserve" port that we know of made from organically grown grapes and organic grape spirits in the market. Expect a dry, spicy, tobacco, cedar nose with bits of menthol, earth, spirit, ash and licorice. A somewhat drier style on the palate with light tannins and some spirity warmth with a rich palate of coffee, tobacco, cedar, menthol, dried fig, black tea and smoky, raisin flavours. A bit rustic but with fine intensity and some light tannins. Serve this one fireside after dinner or with berry fruit and chocolate dishes.

Somehow the Taylor Fladgate 20 Year Old Tawny N/V is always fresh and intense despite its average age of two decades. We love the toffee/ vanilla orange rind nose; the attack is opulent and complex offering up spicy, nutty, fiery, tea flavours with a delicious mellow vanilla finish. It is an exquisite piece of work that transcends the humble nature of grapes.

You may not know that it was Taylor's that created the Late Bottled Vintage category blending wines of a single year and aging those four to six years in 20-70,000 litre vats. The Taylor Fladgate Late Bottled Vintage Port 2005 will seduce you with its black cherry jam and licorice aromas, while its supple, slightly sweet style invites you to the glass. On the palate more chocolate, pepper, black tea, cassis and coffee flavours dominate. An excellent example of the LBV category providing big flavours, early drinkability and fine value.

The jewel in the crown is the magnificent Taylor Fladgate Vintage Port 2009 (private wine shops only) with its fragrant, savoury, spicy, tobacco nose flecked with black tea, olive, black plum jam and dried fig, and spirity, and licorice root aromas. Despite its youth, it is rich and round with a warm, supple palate, but with well defined tannins in abundance. Mineral, floral, black plum, black cherry jam, dried fig, black tea, licorice, and orange peel flavours swamp the palate. Long, warm, linear, exotic this one is will easily age for 25-plus years or serve it over Christmas with a selection of fabulous dark chocolate.

Taylor Fladgate Fine White Port N/V, Douro Valley, Portugal

Price: $22

UPC: 5013626111239

Score: 91/100

Remarks: This can be a special aperitif served over ice with a slice of lemon.

Taylor Fladgate First Estate Reserve Port N/V, Douro Valley, Portugal

Price: $23

UPC: 05013626111260

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Bright, fragrant black fruits with a dash of molasses.

Fonseca Terra Prima Reserve Port N/V, Douro Valley, Portugal

Price: $30

UPC: 005013521101908

Score: 89/100 Remarks: Terra Prima is made from organically grown grapes and organic grape

spirit.

Taylor Fladgate Late Bottled Vintage Port 2005, Douro Valley, Portugal

Price: $26

UPC: 05013626111277

Score: 90/100

Remarks: Black cherry jam and licorice aromas entice.

Taylor 20 Year Old Tawny N/V, Douro Valley, Portugal

Price: $69

UPC: 05013626111291

Score: 94/100

Remarks: An exquisite drink that transcends the humble nature of grape.

Taylor Fladgate Vintage Port 2009, Douro Valley, Portugal

Price: $130. Everything Wine, Legacy Liquor Store only

UPC: 05013626113141

Score: 94/100

Remarks: One to age for 15 plus years. Well done.

Read more: http://www.vancouversun.com/life/just+port+storm/5876942/story.html#ixzz1goonwAnc