Playhouse Winefest is 30 Years Old

Despite an obvious bounty of selection it's going to take some effort to uncover the gems hidden in the tasting room.

The sheer numbers of wineries and wines are as big as, or bigger than ever, although from this writer's perspective the "discovery" or "star" power of the lineup is not quite as bright. It's hard to understand how this could happen with so much choice, although I suspect trying to please every special interest group doesn't help.

There's no need to panic - I'm sure the show will be as successful as ever, but organizers should not lose sight of the festival's 30-year role in shaping the palates of Vancouverites. Since 1978 the festival's raison d'être has been to rouse, incite, provoke and inspire attendees to learn more about the grape.

That took a lot of innovation and, more importantly, the will to resist mediocrity in the tasting room. Just because the business of wine has gone mainstream in British Columbia doesn't mean the festival has to cave in to an army of commercial interests and its many crusaders determined to demystify wine in one easy lesson.

I'm all for helping consumers, but you can't simplify a complex subject in three hours.

The recent focus on food and wine and special events at the festival has been widely accepted by the public and media alike, but it shouldn't come at the expense of attendees discovering new wines, emerging varietals and appellations, and meeting some of the brightest names in the business.

Festival organizers would do well to begin considering which names, and wines, will sell $70 tickets and build the event around that instead of trying to fit everyone's needs into a box that has changed little in 30 years.

Today we turn to six wines that will be poured at the festival and speak to innovation and excitement. You can also buy them this week, if you like, and get warmed up for the big event. Let's hope they inspire you to buy a ticket and drop by the booth later this month where you can meet the visiting principal and complete your information download.

CHILE

Coyam Emiliana 2005 is winemaker Alvaro Espinoza's latest to Bordeaux and the Rhone and it is 100-per-cent organic. The nose is a mix of menthol and cassis flecked with pepper-black cherry and coffee mocha notes that mirror its blend of syrah, cabernet sauvignon, carmenère,  merlot and mourvèdre. The entry is warm and ripe with big, full-flavoured black fruits and smoky, cherry flavours. The finish is ripe and warm. The organic grapes come off the 150-hectare Los Robles vineyard surrounded by oak (Coyam in the native dialect) trees.

AUSTRALIA

Financial woes have beset Evans and Tate, grabbing most of the headlines of late, but keep your eye on the Evans and Tate Chardonnay Margaret River 2006 and enjoy its citrus and lees-flecked nose and spicy, figgy, melon fruit. On the palate it is tight, almost skinny, but with a fine core of white peach fruit. It finishes long and polished. It's sort of half Burgundian, half Niagara. Drink now with seafood or cellar for three to five years.

CALIFORNIA

Ridge Vineyards is a California headliner this festival thanks to the likes of wine such as Ridge Lytton Springs Zinfandel 2005. The latest Lytton Springs is a sophisticated blend of 31 parcels of Dry Creek Valley fruit that blends 77/17/6 zinfandel, petite sirah and carignane aged in air-dried American oak barrels. As usual, the style is lush but with plenty of elegance. The tannins are firm but small-grained and slippery. There are gobs of blueberry and black cherry fruit flavours flecked with earthy briary undertones and a squeeze of vanilla. Delicious now but it will keep a decade with ease.

ITALY

Ruffino Lodola Nuova Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2003 is a tasty 90/10 blend of sangiovese and canaiolo that has benefited from a very warm, dry vintage. The nose is a ripe mix of black cherry jam and licorice with floral undertones. The palate is similar with more cherry chocolate mocha flavours in an atypical rich, weighty style with some peppery, licorice, gamey notes in the finish. It offers both power and elegance in an unusually warm year - a California version of Tuscany that will appeal to many New World wine consumers.

SPAIN

Daniel Castaño will pour the latest 2005 vintage of Hecula but you can still enjoy Castaño Hécula 2004 and its rich, ripe fruity notes of plum and black liquorice that filter across the palate mixing with smoke and spicy, boysenberry fruit. Warm but balanced and flavourful. Made with mostly old vine monastrell. Serve with grilled meats for best results.

CANADA/BC

Winemaker Garron Elmes will be pouring his Lake Breeze Seven Poplars Chardonnay 2006 and it is every bit as good as the previous edition. Made on the Naramata Bench, it has an enticing nose of peach, floral, nutty notes. While on the palate, the wine is elegant but not without some mid-palate fat and flavours of citrus lees mango and spicy, butterscotch.

Price: $25

UPC: 7804320081496

Score: 91/100

Remarks: Alvaro Espinoza's organic ode to the Bordeaux and Rhone.

EVANS AND TATE CHARDONNAY MARGARET RIVER 2006, Australia

Price: $25

UPC: 654910001055

Score: 89/100

Remarks: Tight Western Australian-style with a fine core of white peach fruit.

RIDGE LYTTON SPRINGS ZINFANDEL 2005,  California

Price: $50

UPC: 744442901005

Score: 90/100

Remarks: 31 tasty parcels of Dry Creek Valley fruit.

RUFFINO LODOLA NUOVA VINO NOBILE DI MONTEPULCIANO 2003, Italy

Price: $29

UPC: 8001660113750

Score: 90/100

Remarks: Power and elegance from an unusually warm year.

CASTAÑO HÉCULA 2004, YECLA, Spain

Price: $16

UPC: 08422443001802

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Yum, 100-per-cent old-vine monastrell at a fair price.

LAKE BREEZE SEVEN POPLARS CHARDONNAY 2006, Okanagan Valley

Price: $23 VQA and private wine stores only

UPC: 626990040347

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Citrus mango and spicy, butterscotch flavours.