Playhouse Invites Chile to Vancouver

The annual wine show that normally occurs during late March-early April begins a full month early in 2012. Tickets to the Feb. 27 to March 4 events are already on sale (www.playhousewinefest. com) and, as is the custom, they are expected to sell out before the show starts.

This year's theme country is Chile and Playhouse organizers are expecting some three dozen Chilean producers to make the 17-hour plane ride from Santiago to Vancouver to reveal the latest chapter in Chilean wine. Chile has long had a strangle-hold on value-for-money wine but given its incredible natural wine-growing assets, you get the sense that two decades down the "value" road they want more.

As I write this, I'm in Santiago, along with eight other invited internationals, to judge at the 9th Annual Wines of Chile Awards (AWOCA). Whether its appellation-based or grape variety inspired, there is plenty that is new in Chile and I sense there is some frustration among producers here in trying to get that story out.

Risk is a word you hear more and more when locals talk about the new Chilean wine. Vineyards are appearing all over the countryside and the priority is cooler sites. In this respect, Chilean growers have two main avenues of attack: moving up the eastern hillsides in the Andes where higher altitude means cooler vine-yards, not to mention sparse, poor soils that naturally control vigour. The other option is to go west, much closer to the Pacific, where cool air can blanket the vineyard, changing the nature of fruit that for so long was more often than not baked or jammy.

Two of the bigger names expected in Vancouver to discuss their new wines are Aurelio Montes and Alvaro Espinoza. Espinoza will showcase one of his shining consulting projects, Emiliana, where he has been working since 2000. Espinoza is considered a global authority on biodynamic and organic wine growing and is the force behind a number of such wines from the Casablanca, Maipo and Colchagua Valleys. When he's not too busy helping others, Espinoza makes his own biodynamic wine, labelled Antiyal.

Equally distinguished is Montes, chairman and chief wine-maker at Montes Vineyards in Colchagua. Montes consults widely in Chile and Argentina but is perhaps best known for leading a revolution in wine-making standards, all the while opening up new frontiers well south of Santiago on steep sloped vineyards in the warm Apalta and cool Marchigue valleys.

As we await the onslaught from South America, today we look at a mix of labels from both Emiliana and Montes to give just a taste of what is coming.

One of the better wines for the price, made with organic fruit, is the Emiliana Adobe Chardonnay Reserva Orgánico 2010, from the Casablanca Valley. The entry is lean and crisp with bits of butter, peach skin, green apple, grassy, melon flavours. A simple style of Chardonnay that would work well with creamy pasta or seafood dishes.

Another winner from Emiliana in this case an organic 60/40 blend of chardonnay/ marsanne is the Emiliana Novas Limited Selection Chardonnay Marsanne 2010 from the cool Casablanca Valley. The nose and palate is a mix of melons, lemons, pine-apples and ripe red apples with bits of honey and apricot; the textures, round and ripe. Perfect for a Thai curry, or grilled fish with a fruit salsa.

One of my current favourite wines is the Montes Limited Selection Sauvignon Blanc Leyda Vineyard 2010. Leyda, a sub-district of San Antonio, sits only a few kilometres from the cool Pacific coast and you can taste it in the wine. Fresh and grassy with a strong mineral undercurrent flecked with green fruits and lemon grass. Fine intensity and length for an unwooded white with bits of dill and chalk and more of that stony minerality and liveliness. You won't find it in government stores but you can pick it up at Everything Wine.

The Emiliana Adobe Syrah Reserva Orgánico 2007 from Colchagua has been impressive from its first release and, somewhat like B.C. Syrah, it is a variety that is turning heads fast. Look for smoky blue and black fruits with peppery, spicy, mineral notes on the nose and in the mouth. The pal-ate is slippery with a lush dense weight New World Syrah finish. Great value here in a wine made from organically grown grapes.

Aurelio Montes has always been fascinated by the Bordelais and tier wine, perhaps because he knew he could grow the same grapes on older vines and ripen them every year in Colchagua. The Montes Classic Series Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 with its black olive, peppery, savoury, cassis and bay leaf aromas delivers at $15. The palate is round and full with peppery, blackberry, cassis, tobacco leaf, minty, olive, leather and vanilla flavours. A bit rustic but with solid cabernet character that is ripe with intensity. Try this with some grilled sausages or flank steak.

We end with the rich peppery meaty scented Montes Alpha Syrah 2008 from Colchagua Valley. The palate is firm and dry with smoky black fruit, licorice, vanilla leather and more smoked meat characters. Plenty of power with a bit of finesse highlights its long finish. This needs another three to five years in bottle to reach its potential. Try it with lamb chops.

Emiliana Adobe Chardonnay Reserva Orgánico 2010, Valle de Casablanca, Region de Aconcagua, Chile

Price: $15

UPC: 7804320150628

Score: 86/100

Remarks: A simple style for creamy seafood and pasta dishes.

Emiliana Novas Limited Selection Chardonnay Marsanne, Valle de Casablanca, Chile

Price: $18

UPC: 007804320476650

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Perfect for a Thai curry, or grilled fish with a fruit salsa.

Montes Limited Selection Sauvignon Blanc Leyda Vineyard 2010, Valle de San Antonio, Chile

Price: $23, Everything Wine

UPC: 715126600033

Score: 90/100

Remarks: Only a few kilometres from the coast and you can taste it in the wine.

Emiliana Adobe Syrah Reserva Orgánico 2007, Valle del Colchagua, Valle del Rapel, Chile

Price: $15

UPC: 7804320198521

Score: 88/100

Remarks: The palate is slippery with a lush dense New World Syrah fruit.

Montes Classic Series Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, Valle del Colchagua, Valle del Rapel, Chile

Price: $15

UPC: 00715126000017

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Solid cab character with intensity and ripeness. Good with grilled steaks

Montes Alpha Syrah 2008, Valle del Colchagua, Valle del Rapel, Chile

Price: $27.40

UPC: 00715126000161

Score: 89/100

Remarks: Plenty of power with finesse. Perfect with roast lamb leg.

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