Playhouse Bets On French Theme for 2006

27 to March 5, will feature the theme regions of France.

The plural refers to the seven French subregions that will be the centre of attention next year -- Alsace, Champagne, Bordeaux, Burgundy, Rhone, Languedoc and Loire.

The announcement was made at the festival luncheon "A French Affair" at Le Gavroche Restaurant by William Dickson, chair of the wine festival. Dickson will also serve as chair of the France theme committee.

The subtlety in the announcement was that no French wine-trade representatives were present to lead the charge, at least not yet. It would appear that under Dickson's direction, the festival, fresh off a record attendance of 20,500, will attempt to organize the French producers itself.

It should be quite a challenge.

The French have all but abandoned western Canada in the last 10 years, arguing that their precious marketing dollars are better spent elsewhere -- namely Ontario and Quebec. Since then, the Americans, the Australians and the Spanish have chipped away at France's market share with great glee. And after the South African show, you can add them to the competition too.

It's not just Canada where the French are lagging behind -- the U.K. and the U.S. are experiencing similar themes. The entire French wine industry is creaking with old age and while some producers remain formidable, many have been surpassed by the New World gang.

I know very few young people who grow up drinking French wine as we did, and therein lies the problem.

Still, France has a mystique and a food and wine culture that is second to none, and that should make them an attractive draw in 2006. Let's hope the festival and B.C.'s liquor board use the event to improve what is mostly a dreary, tired, old category of wines (with the possible exception of the Languedoc) that does not reflect the type of wines that interest the modern-day drinker.

Today we look at six French wines designed to get you thinking about next year's theme, and judging by this year's ticket sales, you'd best prepare early.

The Jerome Seguin Cotes du Rhone Rouge 2003 is a typical blend of grenache, syrah and cinsault. Look for a peppery, garrigue, sausage, meaty nose streaked with smoky black cherry notes. It is quite ripe and supple in the mouth with black cherry jam, mineral, smoky licorice and spicy game flavours. A solid, dry, well-made red for mid-week dinners.

Cotes du Rhone Villages is a subcategory of the Cotes du Rhone that generally boasts a bit more strength (alcohol) and mouth feel.

The Louis Bernard Cotes du Rhone Villages 2003 blends grenache, syrah and mourvedre grapes, giving you black raspberry/cherry notes with gamey, rootsy aromas and spicy, peppery, mineral, kirsch flavours. It's certainly good value and it will get better over the next year in the bottle. Try with grilled ham or cassoulet.

The Delas Cotes-du-Ventoux 2003 is another Rhone blend, mixing only grenache and syrah. The nose is very peppery, with black cherries, almonds and big fruit. Look for smoky, spicy, dark fruits with orange, pepper and licorice highlights. Great intensity with some grip, and good value that could also improve in the bottle for another year or two. Aging the wine you buy may be foreign to many wine consumers, but is it is a French strength.

You can excuse Cuvee de Pena 2003 for sounding more Spanish than French, given its location so near to Perpignan and the Spanish border, but the carignan-grenache-syrah blend is all French. In fact, the everyday, hard-working vin de pays rouge is well worth considering. The textures are suitably rich and smooth; the flavours strong and rustic. This is a smoky earthy, peppery red that will suit most grilled meat recipes.

The Bordeaux market has been turned into a one-day affair in B.C., thanks to the yearly en primeur release of Bordeaux big names that stock collectors' cellars but do little for the category on an everyday basis. It's a real shame when you come across a "little" wine like Chateau Teyssier 2001 from Montagne- Saint Emilion.

The negociant Dourthe has been operating this property since 1992 with a 25-year contract in place. The Teyssier blend is mostly merlot (nearly 85 per cent) with cabernet franc and cabernet sauvignon. It explains the round stylish entry with that leafy, forest floor St. Emilion edge. Currently in a tight mode but with big black cherry fruit and firm but soft tannins. Look for this to emerge with another year or two of the aforementioned bottle age into a solid dinner-restaurant wine.

Last but never least is the Laurent Perrier Brut LP Champagne. Expect this category, firmly back on track after the millennium hype and 9/11, to be one of the stars of the festival. The non-vintage LP Brut has a light, delicate, everyday bubble with mineral, citrus, green apple aromas with a background of toasted pear. Expect a fresh, elegant, palate with cherry, citrus, green apple, toasty cream flavours.

WEEKEND WINE TASTING: FRANCE

Wine: Jerome Seguin Cotes du Rhone Rouge 2003, Rhone Valley
Price: $13.99
UPC: 3288611011036
Score: 86/100
Comments: Black cherry jam, smoky licorice, spicy game flavours.

Wine: Louis Bernard Cotes du Rhone Villages 2003, Rhone Valley2003,Notast
Price: $14.90
UPC: 604174000639
Score: 87/100
Comments: Ripe, smooth and supple with lots of black cherry. Good value.

Wine: Delas Cotes-du-Ventoux 2003, Rhone Valley
Price: $16.99
UPC: 753625103501
Score: 87/100
Comments: Spicy, dark fruits and orange rind with pepper and licorice flavours.

Wine: Cuvee de Pena 2003, Les Pyrenees Orientales, Languedoc
Price: $14.99
UPC: 97871001366
Score: 87/100
Comments: Smooth, with strong, rustic earthy smoky peppery fruit.

Wine: Chateau Teyssier 2001, Montagne - Saint Emilion, Bordeaux
Price: $29.75
UPC: 3258691159768
Score: 88/100
Comments: Round stylish entry with that leafy, forest floor and black cherry fruit.

Wine: Laurent Perrier Brut LP Chardonnay - Pinot Noir - Pinot Meunier N/V, Champagne
Price: $54.90
UPC: 626990017059
Score: 89/100
Comments: Fresh with cherry, citrus, green apple, toasted cream flavours.