Pinot Noir Moves Sideways and Forward

Almost overnight, the grape that was barely known outside the inner circle of wine-dom, has arrived in the glare of the mainstream spotlight.

Okay, mainstream might be pushing it, but that's only because there is so little pinot noir (relative to all other grape varieties in the ground), that producers simply cannot get their hands on enough pinot grapes to really jump the numbers.

According to Wine Business Online, "In the four weeks ending January 15, 2005, pinot noir gained 32.6 percent in dollar value and 26.9 percent by volume over the same period in 2004."

In the movie, now widely available in video stores, would-be novelist Miles Raymond (played by Paul Giamatti) prattles on incessantly about pinot noir but if you listen closely you hear why pinot will never become too mainstream. "It's a hard grape to grow. It's thin-skinned, temperamental and ripens early. It's not a survivor like cabernet (sauvignon) that can grow anywhere and thrive even when neglected," says Miles.

Here in B.C., we are barely into a second decade of pinot noir production and while we have had some individual success, it will be another decade or two before we really know what to do with this finicky grape. For the moment, our most consistent labels are coming out of CedarCreek, Blue Mountain, Quails' Gate, Nk'Mip and Inniskillin Okanagan.

Locally, pinot noir ranks third in red grape production at 13.9 per cent. It's well behind merlot's 40.5 share but poised to surpass the difficult to ripen cabernet sauvignon sitting at 14.87 per cent. The good news for producers is that it sells for a lofty $20.93 per litre and produces just under $8 million dollars of revenue per year.

But before the rush to pinot becomes a stampede, prospective producers should listen one more time to Miles when he says, "Pinot needs constant care and attention and in fact can only grow in specific little tucked-away corners of the world. And only the most patient and nurturing growers can do it and really tap into pinot's most fragile, delicate qualities. Only when someone has taken the time to truly understand its potential can pinot be coaxed into its fullest expression."

I couldn't agree more.

Here is a look at some of the latest pinot noir listings to arrive in local wine shops no doubt inspired in some ways by the movie Sideways.

It's been a while since we've seen any wines under the Mirassou name but the Mirassou Monterey Pinot Noir 2003 signals a return. This is a soft, friendly style pinot with a slick almost sweet, creamy entry. The flavours are a mix of sweet, spicy cherries with currants, cedar and a smoky tealeaf finish. Ready to drink.

Similarly, the Cartlidge & Browne Pinot Noir 2004 offers ripe cherry and plum aromas spiked with spicy, barnyard and compost notes. Soft, simple and supple, it is easy to enjoy its cherry, smoky, rhubarb aftertaste.

From the Okanagan it is a pleasure to recommend B.C.'s Quails' Gate Pinot Noir Limited Release 2003. You will love the black cherry, smoky, saddle leather nose and the cool peppery, worsteshire, prune plum flavours. It is tad oaky but there is plenty of promise here. Serve with baked salmon.

Chilean pinot noir is often underrated for the price and a fine example is the Valdivieso Pinot Noir Reserve 2003. It has all the round supple textures of pinot mixed with celery salt, rhubarb and cherry, vanilla aromas. The flavours are rich and concentrated with hints of smoky vanilla, cinnamon and black cherry fruit. Solid value.

Winemaker Randy Ullom hits most of the classic pinot notes with his Kendall-Jackson Pinot Noir Vintner's Reserve 2003. As you sip the rootsy, barnyard, smoky cola flavours spiced with tea and compost notes its slippery tannins and soft textures just roll of the palate. Duck confit salad would be a fine match.

Fruit is always front and centre at Sebastiani and it is the key to the Sebastiani Pinot Noir 2003 from the cool, Sonoma Coast. The intensity jumps up a notch as do the ripe, round and supple textures. The flavours are a delicious mix of smoky, vanilla, black cherry, cedar and licorice root. Well balanced but on the oaky side.

Pining For Pinot

Wine Mirassou Monterey Pinot Noir 2003, Monterey County, California
Price $17.99
UPC 085000012277
Score 87/100
Remarks Slick creamy entry; sweet spicy cherries.

Wine Cartlidge & Browne Pinot Noir 2004, California
Price $18.95
UPC 011443260111
Score 86/100
Remarks Cherry, rhubarb, easy sipping red.

Wine Quails' Gate Pinot Noir Limited Release 2003, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
Price $19.99
UPC 778856103205
Score 86/100
Remarks Smoky, oaky black cherry cedar flavours.

Wine Valdivieso Pinot Noir Reserve 2003, Valle del Lontué, Chile
Price $22.50
UPC 7802180088921
Score 88/100
Remarks Supple palate with smoky vanilla, cinnamon scented fruit.

Wine Kendall-Jackson Pinot Noir Vintner's Reserve 2003, California, United States
Price $24.99
UPC 81584131519
Score 87/100
Remarks Soft round smoky, vanilla, raspberry tea flavours.

Wine Sebastiani Pinot Noir 2003, Sonoma Coast, Sonoma County, California, United States
Price $25.00
UPC 088232005093
Score 87/100
Remarks    Fruit forward, warm rich round mouth-filling pinot.