Pinot Gris - The Okanagan Valley's Signature Grape

vintners? Does it make our best white, or in some cases, copper-coloured wine?

I used to think so, but I'm no longer convinced it will make the very finest white wine in B.C. That title will likely go to a blend of grapes (perhaps containing pinot gris) sometime before the end of the decade.

After a week in the Portugal's super-heated Douro Valley, I'm thinking we should be investigating some of that region's lesser-known white varieties too. Viosinho, gouveio, malvasia and ribagato are not easy to pronounce, but they appear to be thriving in the same kind of heat we have in the southern Okanagan -- the result is delicious, zippy white wine made for food, but that is the future.

There is much to celebrate about B.C. pinot gris in the present, especially when it's made in a clean, crisp style with no oak. For those who prefer a slightly creamier, weighty version, examples with 20 to 30 per cent barrel-fermented juice can also be very attractive. The key is to keep the oak neutral and avoid giving the pinot gris a chardonnay demeanour.

As of last August, there were 453.5 acres planted in pinot gris in B.C., representing 8.3 per cent of the total acreage of grapes planted. Generally, we make a more precise version of gris than Oregon and one that has more intensity than the pinot grigio of northern Italy, yet it is seldom as dry or as weighty as anything from Alsace.

The 2006 harvest will mark the 30th anniversary of pinot gris at Gray Monk where owners George and Trudy Heiss took delivery of their first 50 pinot gris vines, via Alsace, in 1976. The pinot gris fan club has grown considerably since.

Growers like pinot gris because it ripens early; consumers like it because it tastes good. In fact, it pairs so well with such a wide variety of food, it's difficult to peg it to any one dish. Salmon is a natural, but some say it should only be grilled; others insist it must be poached. I like it with local goat cheese, but halibut, scallops and prawns are a fine match too.

Today we examine six pinot gris (including two from Europe), chosen for quality and availability, from more than 20 tasted since January.

The Britzinger Rosenberg Grauer Burgunder (Pinot Gris) Kabinett Trocken 2003 from Germany surprised me with its attractive floral, baked pear nose, and mineral, citrus rind aromas. The palate is fresh with spicy, orange rind, mineral, green apple and green peach flavours. Impressive.

The Burrowing Owl Pinot Gris 2004 shows well despite being slightly leaner and crisper than past versions, and carrying a touch more alcohol. Look for a floral, spicy, citrus aromas with grapefruit rind and light buttery lees and green apple flavours.

The Calona Vineyards Pinot Gris Artist Series Reserve 2004 is pure fun and dirt-cheap. Look for spicy, citrus, baked pear, mineral, slate flavours and a crisp citrus finish. An easy-sipping white suitable for most any occasion that calls for wine. Good value.

I prefer a bit more austerity in my pinot gris and that's what you get with the Inniskillin Okanagan Pinot Grigio Reserve 2004. It's very crisp and dry with a touch of mid-palate oiliness. The finish is green apple skin, citrus and mineral, pear flavours. Bring on the shellfish.

Value for money is not a common descriptor of B.C. wine, but the Mission Hill Pinot Grigio Five Vineyards 2004 delivers all that and more. The leesy, flinty, honey, pear aromas, spiked with a touch of anise and lime rind, will grab your interest as will its round and elegant palate. More lime rind, mineral and baked pear flavours follow with a touch of butter. Perfect for grilled seafood. Another fine example of what a screwcap can do for delicate wines.

Finally, an organic wine that delivers? Villa Teresa Pinot Grigio from the Italian Veneto has a skinny demure style with floral, anise and mineral notes. It's super fresh on the palate with green apple, lime, anise and pear flavours. Order the grilled calamari.

Weekend Wine Tasting: Pinot Gris

Britzinger Rosenberg Grauer Burgunder Kabinett Trocken 2003, Baden, Germany
Price: $22.75
UPC: 4005738562413
Score: 89/100
Remarks: Floral, baked pear, orange rind, green peach flavours.

Burrowing Owl Pinot Gris 2004, Oliver, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
Price: $20.00
UPC: 626990004448
Score: 89/100
Remarks: Grapefruit rind, minerals and green apple/buttery lees.

Calona Vineyards Pinot Gris Artist Series Reserve 2004, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
Price: $12.99
UPC: 058976340231
Score: 85/100
Remarks: Spicy, citrus, baked pear, mineral flavoured sipper.

Inniskillin Okanagan Pinot Grigio Reserve 2004, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
Price: $14.99
UPC: 620654011094
Score: 86/100
Remarks: Clean straight-up B.C. pinot gris.

Mission Hill Pinot Grigio Five Vineyards 2004, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
Price: $15.99
UPC: 776545995322
Score: 87/100
Remarks: Elegant white with lime rind, mineral and baked pears.

Wine Villa Teresa Pinot Grigio (Organic) 2004, Veneto, Italy
Price: $15.95
UPC: 8007615000366
Score: 86/100
Remarks: Fresh, lean crisp - perfect with grilled calamari.