Pinot Gris Gets Legs in North America

The best sources of Pinot Gris, at least in my view, come from British Columbia, Northern Italy and New Zealand. The French version from Alsace should not be ignored, but they tend to be so rich and heavy in style that they have little in common with their cooler-climate cousins.

The latest statistics from the B.C. Wine Institute show Pinot Gris second among all white grapes planted in B.C., with 13.21 per cent of the total pie. Chardonnay leads all white varieties in the ground at 27.5 per cent of the total plantings.

Generally, we make a more precise version of Gris than Oregon, one with more intensity than the Pinot Grigio of northern Italy. Yet it is seldom as dry or weighty as anything from Alsace.

If it is true that growers like Pinot Gris because it ripens early, it would appear chefs and consumers like it because it pairs well with a variety of food.

Salmon is a natural, but some say it should only be grilled; others insist it must be poached. I like it with local goat cheese, but halibut, scallops and prawns are a fine match too.

You'll find it just as handy on the patio before dinner, where it can be served solo or, again, with a variety of appetizers.

Today we look at six labels you can investigate as the sun begins to warm southwestern B.C.

The Mission Hill Pinot Gris Reserve 2004 has a full-on grapefruit, mineral and honey nose spiked with quince. Both dry and fresh, it is crisp on the plate with a balance of honey, grapefruit, green apple, spicy, buttery mineral flavours. There is fine intensity and fruit, but it's beginning to dry out in the finish. Mature, yet holding well. Drink it all summer long and consider pairing it with grilled prawns on the barbie.

South Africa's inland Robertson Valley is home to the Van Loveren Pinot Grigio 2005. The latest version has a floral, baked apple nose with canned citrus and plastic notes in the background. It's round, soft and fresh on the palate with sweetish undertones. The fruit is a mix of green apple, buttery floral, mineral flavours. This is a simple, easy-sipping Gris for the patio.

The Lang Vineyards Pinot Gris 2005 is similar to last year's version and that is good news for consumers. Look for a big floral, perfumed, citrus, mineral, spicy, earthy nose, and a fresh, round, slightly sweet entry with good acidity and balance. It has lots of floral, soapy, green apple skin, mineral, spice flavours and a pure style that is crisp and delicate. Serve with pan-sauteed scallops and a fennel apple salad.

A rare sighting for us is the Blue Mountain Vineyard Pinot Gris Reserve (Striped Label) 2003. The nose is a sophisticated mix of buttery, leesy, creamy vanilla notes with a bit of earth and spice. Round, dry, elegant and crisp, the palate mixes more nutty lees, citrus, baked apple, vanilla, earth and buttery biscuit flavours. Very crisp, warm and buttery in the finish. A fine Burgundian-style white, but hard to peg as Pinot Gris. Serve with halibut and a fruit salsa.

Winemaker Tom Di Bello's entry-level CedarCreek Pinot Gris 2005 has a terrific nose reminiscent of green apple, nectarine skin, citrus fruit and just a touch of burnt matchstick that blows off in the glass. Dry, tight and round, the slightly austere style Pinot Gris has buttery, mineral, baked green apple, citrus and lees flavours. It's both crisp and dry in the finish and would be perfect with herb-roasted free-range chicken.

The home of Pinot Grigio is northern Italy, as exemplified by Ruffino Lumina Pinot Grigio 2005 from Venezia Giulia. Typically Italian, it has a cool floral, lemon, mineral, almond nose. On entry it is dry and round, both elegant and somewhat austere. The flavours are smoky, mineral green apple skin mixed with lees, chalk and lemon. Very crisp, dry, lemon rind finish. Serve with grilled prawns basted in rosemary butter and maple syrup.

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MISSION HILL PINOT GRIS RESERVE 2004, OKANAGAN VALLEY, BRITISH COLUMBIA
Price: $18.99
UPC: 776545991034
Score: 88/100
Remarks: Mature now, but holding well. Serve with food.

VAN LOVEREN PINOT GRIGIO 2005, ROBERTSON, BREEDE RIVER VALLEY, SOUTH AFRICA
Price: $13.99
UPC: 6002269000061
Score: 85/100
Remarks: Soft, fresh, green apple, floral, buttery, mineral flavours.

LANG VINEYARDS PINOT GRIS 2005, OKANAGAN VALLEY, BRITISH COLUMBIA
Price: $17.90 VQA and private wine shops only
UPC: 626990020721
Score: 88/100
Remarks: Pure style that is delicate and crisp. Serve with spicy foods.

BLUE MOUNTAIN PINOT GRIS RESERVE 2003, OKANAGAN VALLEY, BRITISH COLUMBIA
Price: $25.00 winery only/restaurants
UPC: na
Score: 88/100
Remarks: A fine Burgundian style but hard to peg as pinot gris.

CEDARCREEK PINOT GRIS 2005, BRITISH COLUMBIA
Price: $15.99
UPC: 778913025099
Score: 87/100
Remarks: Light butter, mineral, baked green apple, citrus and lees flavours.

RUFFINO LUMINA PINOT GRIGIO 2005, FRIULI-VENEZIA GIULIA, ITALY
Price: $15.99
UPC: 8001660197156
Score: 86/100
Remarks: Crisp, dry, Italian-style grigio designed for food.