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Anthony Gismondi on Wine

Don't get me wrong I love delicious rosé but not in the middle of fall or winter or whatever you call this weather.

Pink Means Rosé Today

But in true West Coast fashion (and because I do have deadlines), I've decided not to let the rain prevent me from getting on with the job. It's time to talk Provence rosé, even if the sun never makes another appearance from behind the clouds.

 

I'm excited about drinking rosé this summer and I'm suggesting, whether you are wearing shorts and a T-shirt or you need to pull on a sweater and a pair of pants, you will make use of this column in the weeks to come, rain or shine.

 

The rush to pink has been more of a long walk in British Columbia but a movement by agents and retailers toward listing most rosés from May through September, while the weather is warmer, is giving new life to the category.

 

I have to say it works for me, despite the weather. The trick is to drink the freshest versions you can find which means any 2011 or in the case of southern hemisphere pinks, it could include some early release 2012s that will arrive in the weeks and months to come. Provence is hardly embracing the screw cap, but those that have confirm what we already know they are more vibrant and lively on the palate.

 

If you are still searching for your inner rosé you may have yet to experience it under ideal conditions. My personal epiphany occurred on a patio in the south of Spain. The temperature was in the high 30s C. There was a warm wind blowing in off the Mediterranean, the tapas were tiny and perfect; the rosé was perfectly chilled. It was magic. If you want to discover your own magic check out the special Provence Rosé display in Signature BC Liquor Stores throughout the rest of June and pick a bottle or two.

 

I had a chance to taste the entire lineup earlier this month and have selected six of the best to share with you. Remember Provence is home to some of the oldest vineyards in France. Its colour, a pale salmon/orange can be beguiling as is its refreshing mix of crisp, delicate fruit flavours. When you go looking for these bottles in the store be sure to pick up the handy promotional booklet provided by the Provence wine consortium that includes a number of fun recipes for dishes suited to their wines.

 

First up is the Gassier Rosé Sables d'Azur 2011 with its attractive, dusty-pink colour. Look for a floral, earthy nose flecked with citrus, mineral and dried herbs notes. The attack is fresh and round with more mineral floral, quince, cherry, citrus fruit flavours. Full, dry and delicious, it works well with a variety of grilled salmon dishes.

 

Many of you will know Jerome Quiot from Châteauneuf-du-Pape; Domaine Houchart Sainte Victoire Rosé 2011 is his foray into rosé from the recently established Sainte Victoire appellation in Provence that is east of Aix-en-Provence. The colour is classic salmon orange. The style is weighty with a rich thread of orange peel and spicy cranberries. The attack is smooth and silky with more orange, cranberry and caramel notes throughout. Try this with grilled fish dishes or steamed mussels.

 

The GM 2011 is a Grenache-Syrah with a beautiful, salmon pink colour. The nose is an attractive mix of bright red cherries and earth with beautiful minerality throughout. The attack is dry and fresh with more red fruits and dried herbs on the mid-palate followed by citrus and freshness. This will be a versatile food wine stretching from shellfish to grilled chicken and likely plenty in between.

 

The Mirabeau Rose 2011 carries the Cotes de Provence AOC and is made from vineyards around the village of Pourcieux, southeast of Aix-en-Provence. It is a blend of Grenache, Cinsault and Syrah grapes. The wine is made to a style each year using purchased grapes that are direct pressed to determine its exact colour. The nose and palate is classic, packed with bright red fruits flavours offset by a pinch of pear and citrus. Fresh, tangy, clean and screaming for food this is a winner.

 

Sascha Lichine, son of the legendary Bordeaux château owner Alexis Lichine is the man behind Château d'Esclans Whispering Angel Rosé 2011, a high-end Provence project that has turned out a sleek, slippery, delicate, delicious pink wine. Strawberry watermelon is the theme on the nose and palate with juicy fresh lemons and rhubarb in the finish. Elegant and expressive as you can get for rosé. Chicken pâté would be a great match.

 

Our final pick is La Chapelle Gordonne Rosé 2011. Think classic Provence rosé from its pale orange colour to its fresh nose of raspberry and orange aromas. The attack is similarly fresh and juicy with bright acidity and crisp, red berry fruit flavours flecked with orange. Perfect for al fresco dining and grilled prawns, or a freshly prepared homemade potato or chicken salad.

 


Gassier Rosé Sables d'Azur 2011, Côtes de Provence, France

Price: $16

UPC: 003604894180281

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Full, dry and delicious; it works well with a variety of grilled salmon dishes.

 

Domaine Houchart Sainte Victoire Rosé 2011, Côtes de Provence, France

Price: $17

UPC: 003345127024117

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Try this one with grilled fish dishes or steamed mussels.

 

GM 2011, Côtes de Provence, France

Price: $20

UPC: 3142920026528

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Fresh red fruits and dried herbs followed by citrus notes.

 

Mirabeau Rose 2011, Côtes de Provence, France

Price: $25

UPC: 003269210253034

Score: 89/100

Remarks: Fresh, tangy and clean and screaming for food. This is a winner.

 

Château d'Esclans Whispering Angel Rosé 2011, Côtes de Provence, France

Price: $28

UPC: 3760167974114

Score: 90/100

Remarks: Chicken or duck pâté would be a great match.

 

La Chapelle Gordonne Rosé 2011, Côtes de Provence, France

Price: $29

UPC: 3244084311202

Score: 89/100

Remarks: Perfect for al fresco dining and grilled prawns.

 

Read more: http://www.vancouversun.com/life/Discover+magic+rose/6789893/story.html#ixzz1zKMeaxCP

Written By: ag
Anthony Gismondi
Anthony Gismondi

Anthony Gismondi is a Canadian wine journalist and one of North America's most influential voices in wine. For over 30 years, he has been the wine columnist for The Vancouver Sun. The twice-weekly column is distributed across Canada through the Postmedia Network to millions of readers. In addition, Anthony hosts the BC Food & Wine Radio Show, broadcast in 25 markets across B.C. and available as a podcast on major platforms. He launched Gismondionwine.com in 1997, attracting one million monthly users from 114 countries. It continues to be a valuable resource full of tasting notes, intelligent wine stories and videos for the trade and consumers. Conversations with wine personalities are available on his  YouTube Channel.