Pink Drinks Part II

We mention summer, because one of the challenges rose wines have experienced in this market is fighting the damp rains of fall and winter. In short, it tends to lack tableside appeal when the warm weather slides into the cool rainy days of fall. The current strategy is to bring in a bunch of rose in May and sell it all by September.

Summer usually means eating more casually, often out-of-doors, and both are suited to the versatility of rose that offers more mouth-weight than simple whites, but doesn't overpower the food in the way red wine tannins might.

Less acidity and lower alcohol are two key features of dry rose when compared with whites and reds. That smoothness allows it to pair well with a variety of pasta dishes, both warm and cold.

Again thanks to its softer tannin, rose is a fine companion to most fish dishes, and the spicier the better. Think grilled salmon and glass of pink Provence. A favourite pairing of mine is fresh goat cheese encrusted with peppercorns and dried tomatoes with rose .

Picnic meats such as grilled chicken, pork and or cold cuts with vegetable/mushroom or rice-based side dishes are equally receptive to well-chilled rose.

If that's not enough, serving straight-up Spanish-style tapas with sparkling rose will seal the deal at any patio party. Now, to the wine.

Attending a summer wedding on a warm afternoon can be an enjoyable experience if they are pouring Segura Viudas Lavit Rosado Brut Cava. Built for tapas and finger food, Lavit has fresh, stylish mousse (small bubbles) and an attractive pale raspberry colour. The nose is a delicate mix of cherry, baked red apple, mineral and lime-rind notes: the flavours more cherry, mineral, citrus rind with nutty, toasted highlights. As you would expect, it is a bit fruitier, creamier and dryer than the regular Brut Reserva. This is terrific aperitif-style bubble.

It's official, Salt Spring Island's Garry Oaks has a penchant for making charming rose. Similar to previous versions the latest Garry Oaks Blanc de Noir 2005 sports an enticing, pale pink hue, and attractive earthy, spicy strawberry, fruit nose. There is just enough fruit and sweetness to balance off the earthy vegetal tones. This is classic summer pink made for the deck or the picnic basket. Well done.

If you haven't tasted the Sutter Home White Zinfandel 2004 recently, you may want to do so. The nose is a light, but fresh, blend of red summer berries. On entry, it offers flavours of sweet watermelon and raspberries with just enough acidity to keep it from being cloying. The finish is clean and crisp without any cooked flavours. Light, bright and low in alcohol, this white zinfandel does the category proud. My food thoughts turn to a spicy curry.

A fine newcomer to look out for is Zunio Rose 2005 -- a snappy pinot noir, syrah and zinfandel blend. The nose is dry and appealing, with earthy undertones. This stylish rose has a soft-ish underbelly, and a crisp, clean finish that does not depend on sugar to attract. It is certainly capable of accompanying a wide range of food. A pleasant rose in a sea of sweet pink wines.

Kim Crawford Pansy! Rose 2003 is a Kiwi ode to pink that blends merlot and cabernet franc. Although in the case of the '03 vintage, it's pressing its freshness time limit. Almost more Beaujolais than rose at this point, there's a dash of late-harvest chardonnay to add some sweetness to the mix of earthy, leafy, berry fruit flavours. Credit its screwcap closure for keeping this wine lively. Drink now. We look forward to a new vintage soon.

There's something decadent about sipping rose champagne, but I cannot think of too many other ways to spend $55 and get the same pleasure. The Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Rose offers a highly attractive coppery salmon hue to please the eye. The nose is fresh, mixing nutty, raspberry, creamy, mineral aromas. The mousse is equally attractive: smooth, creamy and very refined. On the palate, there is a burst of flavour intensity with cherry, raspberry, nutty, citrus flavours with a mineral, green apple finish. Fine elegance and balance in a romantic package.

Pink Picks

SEGURA VIUDAS LAVIT ROSADO BRUT CAVA N/V, PENEDES, CATALUNYA, SPAIN
Price: $15.49
UPC: 033293653004
Score: 87/100
Remarks: A crisp, fresh, fruity rose. Perfect for summer weddings.

GARRY OAKS BLANC DE NOIR 2005, SALT SPRING ISLAND, BRITISH COLUMBIA
Price: $17.95 winery direct
UPC: 626990024057
Score: 86/100
Remarks: Charming rose made for the deck or the picnic basket.

SUTTER HOME WHITE ZINFANDEL 2004, CALIFORNIA, UNITED STATES
Price: $8.90
UPC: 00085200000296
Score: 85/100
Remarks: Low in alcohol, this white zinfandel does the category proud.

ZUNIO ROSE PINOT NOIR - SYRAH - ZINFANDEL 2005, CALIFORNIA, UNITED STATES
Price: $13.87
UPC: 831822007096
Score: 87/100
Remarks: A pleasant dry rose in a sea of sweet pink wines.

KIM CRAWFORD PANSY! ROSE 2003, MARLBOROUGH, NEW ZEALAND
Price: $18.99 private wine shops only
UPC: 9419227005186
Score: 86/100
Remarks: Pansy! is the Kiwi ode to pink.

NICOLAS FEUILLATTE BRUT ROSE N/V, CHAMPAGNE, FRANCE
Price: $55.51
UPC: 3282946011808
Score: 91/100
Remarks: Worth the splurge.