Peter Lehman

liquor stores: Peter Lehmann. Why it took so long for his wines to appear in B.C. is anybody's guess, but they're now arriving, and they bring another level of choice to what is easily the most competitive category in government stores. Lehmann has been dubbed the Baron of the Barossa, the Bishop of the Barossa, even the Doyen of Barossa Winemakers. He's been honoured with the Order of Australia, and according to respected Australian wine writer James Halliday, is "a legend in his own lifetime."

A fifth generation Barossan, Lehmann was born in Angaston and got his start at the nearby Yalumba winery in 1947. After 13 years he moved on to become winemaker-manager of Saltram Wines, where over 20 years he built a national reputation for innovation and dedication in quality production. He also forged a number of enduring relationships with Barossa growers based on a simple handshake and the unwavering principle that "your word is your bond."

In 1980 Lehmann became embroiled in a dispute with Saltram's owner, who was trying to take advantage of a grape surplus (and his contract growers) by refusing to honour previously negotiated prices. Rather than break his bond with more than 200 growers, Lehmann left Saltram, built a new winery with investors' help, took a minority ownership position and continued to source his fruit solely from independent growers. In 1992 he faced another crisis that led to his buying out the majority shareholder and taking the company public.

Today, most of his growers and all his staff are shareholders in a winery that has become as stable as any in the country. In the coming weeks several of his wines will arrive in Vancouver.

Today, a look at some of the first crop expected to be in both government and private shops by this weekend. Two entry-level wines bear the "Weighbridge" label. It refers to the winery's area where at each vintage you'll find Lehmann weighing and assessing grapes, and extending a little hospitality to his growers. It's a place where gossip is exchanged and key winemaking decisions are made. TheWeighbridge 2001 Chardonnay is all cold-fermented, a technique that contributes to its delicious peachy-melon fruit laced with lees, honey and citrus zest aromas. Look for a soft, round entry with a slightly buttery texture and some heat (alcohol) in the finish. The flavours mimic the aromas, with a dash of mineral. It's clean, well balanced and fun to drink. The Weighbridge 2000 Shiraz is surprisingly light in colour for a shiraz with leafy, weedy, coffee aromas and just a touch of pepper in the finish. It's mostly smooth and round in the mouth, making it simple and easy to drink, but it lacks the usual richness and weight we associate with shiraz selling for around $17. Best use it around the barbecue.

Lehmann's 2001 Sémillon is a standout, with a sensational fresh melon, lemon zest and floral nose and similar fruit flavours (plus a touch of peach) that are lovely, dry and round. This is perfection in sémillon: fresh, fruity, delicate. It's a perfect summer wine with seafood such as garlic prawns with a dash of olive oil. Great value - buy by the case.

Expect all the typical big Oz aromas, mixing apple, citrus and peach fruit, in the Peter Lehmann 2000 Chardonnay. Peach, butter and vanilla flavours coat the tongue, followed by toast and citrus in the finish. It's an attractive, medium-bodied, fruit-driven white for everyday use. Lehmann's 1999 Shiraz opens with fresh coffee and cedar aromas, along with blackberries and saddle leather - this one smells like shiraz. The fruit is round, sweet and smoky, with hints of vanilla, peppers and blackberry. This one is very polished and perfect for current drinking. I love the chocolate/coffee/mocha/vanilla finish.

The 2000 Clancy's Legendary Red is a blend of Barossa-grown shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and merlot, spiced with the American oak which is so much a part of Lehmann's style. Spicy coffee aromas with black pepper, cassis and sweaty vegetable mark the nose. The flavours are similar, with more cassis and chocolate notes, and solid weight distribution across the palate. Grilled lamb would be the perfect pairing.