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Anthony Gismondi on Wine

A week in Florida can be disconcerting to even the fringe wine buyer.

Open Wine Market has Perks

Some wine prices are so low you have to pinch yourself to make sure you are not dreaming. To the undiscerning eye, most of what you encounter appears to be, at least in terms of price, far too good to be true. To be sure, the lingering effects of the recession lurk but nothing is more impactful than a free and open market.

 

As you might expect the large American brands dominate as do the biggest players from Europe (mostly from France), Australia, Chile, Argentina and a bit of Spain. It's not terribly different than the story in B.C. except for one thing: Most wine sells for half the price it does in British Columbia and that's before a 10-per-cent case discount. On top of that you leave the store with assorted coupons and points for even more bar-gains you can enjoy the next time you return.

 

Costco, BJ's, ABC - the wine store list goes on and on and that's just in "small town" Central Florida. You can buy wine anywhere, and just for the record, I didn't see anyone staggering around the region clutching wine bottles making a nuisance of themselves. There's nothing perfect about America, but they sure are more relaxed about wine than we are.

 

Whites are amazingly cheap, although the best bargains are older stocks of 2009 and 2010. Still, for the savvy shopper bar-gains abound. Vinho verde, a terrific summer sipper, can be had for $3.99, Spanish albariño for $8.99, and the most recognizable California Chardon-nay for about $11.99. With the Canadian dollar at par, these are real bargains.

 

Red wine and particularly fine wine is even more attractive. Vacqueyras, an important region in the Rhone with fine producers, can be had for $14 versus $27-$30 in B.C., as can a variety of well-known Argentine malbecs - the same ones we pay nearly $20 for, or more. There may be little hope of lower prices in B.C. at the moment but help could be on the way from the strangest of places.

 

On April 3 the House of Commons Finance Committee met to consider Bill C-311, which would amend the Importation of Intoxicating Liquors Act to permit the inter-provincial shipment of wine. While the intent is to make Canadian-made wine available across Canada, wine is wine, and planned changes to the inter-provincial shipping laws should open up competition for wine across Canada. It could mean drastic drops in pricing in B.C., Alberta and Quebec, or conversely, a huge jump in Ontario prices depending upon how prices equalize.

 

Only time will tell. But before all that comes to pass, I thought it might be fun to revisit some introductory Sauvignon Blancs to kick off the arrival of warmer weather.

 

We begin with the Cono Sur Organic Sauvignon Blanc 2011 from San Antonio. It is not quite as sensational as last year's edition, but still along the kiwi, lime rind and gooseberry path with canned jalapeño and fine acidity. The attack is juicy and vibrant with more pun-gent, smoky jalapeño and passion fruit flavours. It has excel-lent concentration for the price, thanks to a blend of three pickings and three Sancerre clones all grown organically.

 

Equally "cool" is the Santa Carolina Oceanside Sauvignon Blanc 2011, also from San Antonio, with its cool sea water, citrus, mineral and oyster liqueur aromas. The attack is clean and crisp with salty/ briny citrus fruit with fine underlying minerality. A real jump up in style and quality for Chilean Sauvignon. Delicious.

 

The Santa Rita Sauvignon Blanc 120 2011, from Chile's Maule region, is always a sure bet for the price. Lemon, lime, grass and guava mark the nose with herbal, citrus, chalky grapefruit flavours on the pal-ate. There is less acid this year but that should only add to its appeal at this price point. Super value in an everyday Sauvignon Blanc.

 

Asparagus, grassy, light grape-fruit and nettle aromas mark the nose of the Nederburg Sauvignon Blanc, The Wine-master's Reserve 2011 from the Western Cape. The attack is juicy, the palate slightly oily with a hint of sweetness and a mix of grapefruit, cooked goose-berry, lemon and nettle flavours. A simple, easy-sipping style and good value too.

 

When it comes to quality you can pretty much set your watch each year by the Villa Maria Sauvignon Blanc Private Bin. Consistently fresh and clean, it is the best pure Marlborough Sauvignon for the money in our market. The 2011 vintage presents passion fruit, oyster liqueur with bits of jalapeño introduced on the front palate followed by citrus, more passion fruit and dried herbs. Mussels anyone?

 

Our final pick is a much richer, more intense Marl-borough Sauvignon made by former Cloudy Bay founder and winemaker Kevin Judd. Greywacke Sauvignon Blanc 2011 comes with floral, grapefruit rind, melon, pear and light jalapeño aromas. The entry is juicy and slightly sweet but with fine acidity while the palate mixes grapefruit, Granny Smith, jalapeño, grassy, spicy and goose-berry flavours. Fine intensity and fullness with ripe fruit and higher alcohol than most. A delicious style.

 

SAUVIGNON BLANC

 

Cono Sur Organic Sauvignon Blanc 2011, Valle de San Antonio, Region de Aconcagua, Chile

Price: $13.49

UPC: 007804320348063

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Excellent concentration for the price, all in a cool coastal style.

 

Santa Carolina Oceanside Sauvignon Blanc 2011, Valle de San Antonio, Chile

Price: $18

UPC: 7804350003604

Score: 88/100

Remarks: A real jump up in style and quality for Chilean Sauvignon.

 

Santa Rita Sauvignon Blanc 120 2011, Valle del Lontué, Valle del Maule, Chile

Price: $13

UPC: 89419007091

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Super value in an everyday Sauvignon Blanc.

 

Nederburg Sauvignon Blanc The Winemaster's Reserve 2011, Western Cape, South Africa

Price: $13

UPC: 083206000531

Score: 86/100

Remarks: Fresh, juicy, crisp, slightly oily palate with a hint of sweetness.

 

Villa Maria Sauvignon Blanc Private Bin 2011, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand

Price: $19

UPC: 009414416305528

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Consistently fresh, it is the best pure Marlborough Sauvignon for the money.

 

Greywacke Sauvignon Blanc 2011, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand

Price: $33

UPC: 009421901925017

Score: 91/100

Remarks: Big grapefruit, Granny Smith, jalapeno, grassy, spicy, gooseberry flavours.

 

 

 

Read more: http://www.vancouversun.com/life/Open+wine+market+perks/6535291/story.html#ixzz1uItdv9Lz

Written By: ag
Anthony Gismondi
Anthony Gismondi

Anthony Gismondi is a Canadian wine journalist and one of North America's most influential voices in wine. For over 30 years, he has been the wine columnist for The Vancouver Sun. The twice-weekly column is distributed across Canada through the Postmedia Network to millions of readers. In addition, Anthony hosts the BC Food & Wine Radio Show, broadcast in 25 markets across B.C. and available as a podcast on major platforms. He launched Gismondionwine.com in 1997, attracting one million monthly users from 114 countries. It continues to be a valuable resource full of tasting notes, intelligent wine stories and videos for the trade and consumers. Conversations with wine personalities are available on his  YouTube Channel.