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The South Okanagan Winery Association (SOWA) has changed its name and focus in a daring move that may finally shake up their complacent competitors up and down the Okanagan Valley and across the province.
The "association" has made a conscious decision to redefine its membership by the region they reside in.
The SOWA acronym never really offered up any useful information about the wineries or its well-defined desert region and with no sub-appellations to hang its hat on the association has decided to take a giant step forward and define its region, wineries and wines under the brand Oliver Osoyoos Wine Country, and already 21 of 25 wineries have come together to better help delineate the region where their wines are grown.
The plan according to spokesman Tim Martiniuk, a partner at Stoneboat Winery located on the Black Sage Bench, is "to communicate a sense of place and highlight our area's distinct and unique qualities; climate, soil and the people who make wines here. Moreover, we are proud of the fact that the vast majority of wine produced and sold from our cellar doors is grown within the boundaries of this region."
The use of the Oliver Osoyoos moniker hearkens back to the 1950s and '60s when the region was a thriving centre of orchard fruits. Today, Oliver Osoyoos Wine Country is bordered by McIntyre Bluff to the north of the town of Oliver and the U.S. border to the south. In between, three major benches -the Golden Mile, The Black Sage and Osoyoos Lake -are home to the region's most specific wines.
I know it's a crazy idea but looking at this perfect subregion name I see a logical, cascading Canadian appellation of origin (from large to small) that would go something like this: Canada, British Columbia, Okanagan Valley, Oliver Osoyoos and finally Golden Mile Bench, Black Sage Bench and Osoyoos Lake Bench. You could argue where the bench boundaries fall, but after that the system makes a lot of sense which is why it will never happen.
In fact, the chances of Canada or British Columbia agreeing on a meaningful appellation system for all its wines are about the same as you being able to buy wine anywhere in the country and having it shipped to your home, and that is slim to none.
I for one support the Oliver Osoyoos initiative, as toothless as it may be in law, because the spirit is to promote a region that is home to the largest percentage of grapes grown in the entire province, and several outstanding producers. It's the desert that defines this region with its extreme climate, providing long hot days and cool nights and the burnt orange colour scheme of Oliver Osoyoos Wine Country brand will dot a new series of regional road signs and winery signs that will alert travellers they are in Oliver Osoyoos Wine Country.
Ironically, the same ease of use will not be afforded wine buyers who are paying huge prices for Okanagan Valley labels, even if under the current laws the fruit could come from anywhere between Vernon and the American border.
Our first pick is the Burrowing Owl Athene 2008. The style is dry and slightly lean with smoky, vanilla, savoury, espresso, black olive and cassis fruit mixed with meaty, peppery, licorice root and dried herbs flavour.
Try it with grilled meat or cellar for another two or three years.
Stoneboat Vineyards Pinot Gris 2010 has nailed the fresh aspect of Pinot Gris revealing a very fruity Gris with flecks of pear, honey and nectarine skin. The finish brings plenty of citrus and creamy mineral notes that cleanse the palate for the next bite of food. Well done.
The Church & State Chardonnay 2008 is a mix of Gravelbourg and Dekleva Family Vineyard blending fruit from two south Okanagan benches: Black Sage and Golden Mile. This is an impressive Chardonnay with winemaker Bill Dyer's deft touch all over it. Love the bright, tropical fruit aromas, creamy textures and toasted vanilla hazelnut finish. A great wine with halibut.
Gehringer Brothers has a new package that, believe it or not, is mostly under screw cap. That means the cleanest freshest winemaking in the valley just got an upgrade. The Gehringer Brothers Ehrenfelser Classic 2010 is a testament to the historical Becker project cross that delivers fresh, orange creamsicle aromas and flavours. The finish is off dry and perfectly balanced by fine acidity and bright minerality. Crazy value in a delicious summer sipper.
Made from 30-year and older vines the unique Hester Creek Trebbiano 2010 is thriving under winemaker Rob Summers and the new Hester Creek winery facilities. The wine remains bright and fresh on entry with tropical passion fruit notes mixed with apple, citrus and peach flecks.
A fine patio performer, it is even better with curries and pizzas.
Still quite youthful, the Tinhorn Creek Merlot 2008 presents on the sweeter, softer, fruitier side. The entry is round and soft, the fruit spicy with black olive, dried herbs and roasted bell pepper and floral, red-fruit notes. The tannins are dry, showing a touch of oak. Best with hearty meat dishes or spaghetti and meatballs.
OLIVER OSOYOOS WINE COUNTRY
Burrowing Owl Athene 2008, Oliver, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
Price: $35
UPC: 00688229008085
Score: 88/100
Remarks: Smoky, vanilla, savoury, espresso, black olive, cassis and cherry notes.
Stoneboat Vineyards Pinot Gris 2010, Oliver, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
Price: $19
UPC: 626990058991
Score: 88/100
Remarks: Plenty of citrus and creamy mineral notes that cleanse the palate.
Church & State Chardonnay 2008, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
Price: $25
UPC: N/A
Score: 89/100
Remarks: A great wine with halibut.
Gehringer Brothers Ehrenfelser Classic 2010, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
Price: $14
UPC: 623871010079
Score: 87/100
Remarks: Crazy value in a delicious summer sipper.
Hester Creek Trebbiano 2010, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
Price: $19
UPC: 00626990057567
Score: 88/100
Remarks: Great on the patio but even better with curries and pizzas.
Tinhorn Creek Merlot 2008, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
Price: $19
UPC: 00624802971056
Score: 87/100
Remarks: Try this with spaghetti and meatballs.
