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Anthony Gismondi on Wine

The real Okanagan Wine Festival gets under way this weekend and runs through the Thanksgiving Day weekend.

I say real because there are spring, summer and winter versions of the original wine country bash, but none come close to what you can experience in the fall at the height of harvest.

The Okanagan has grown up immeasurably over the last three or four years, especially when it comes to dining. And there is finally a serious movement afoot to address the growing problem of where one stays in wine country. Kelowna may have the most rooms, but Oliver, Penticton and Okanagan Falls have the best views and are the closest to the bulk of the vineyards.

This year, winery restaurants are the place to be seen and there is no shortage of quality eateries to stop by. The valley is hopping so don't rely on just showing up, especially for dinner.

Heading north to south, you may want to begin at CedarCreek where chef Geoffrey Couper is hosting a harvest luncheon in the vineyard from Sept. 29 to Oct. 1 and Oct. 6 to 8, 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. It's family-style seating, no reservations are required and the menu is local and seasonal.

In Westbank at Mission Hill, the Terrace is not to be missed for an elegant al fresco luncheon, or drop by the newly refurbished Patio Vine restaurant at Quails' Gate, nestled in the vineyard and just above the lake. The menus are built around the wines, so it can add a new dimension to your winery visit.

Penticton is all about the Naramata Bench and perhaps the other best al fresco experience in the valley is at Lake Breeze, where the casual menu perfectly complements the stellar wines of winemaker Garron Elmes. Nearby, the Barrel Bistro Room at Hillside Estate (1350 Naramata Rd.) is another fun stop for a casual lunch or dinner. The magnificent views are a bonus.

Other Penticton stops could include the Bench Artisan Food Market at the entrance to the Naramata Bench winery route, the ever popular Theo's at 687 Main St. (terrific Greek food with all the appropriate atmosphere) or the slick Hooded Merganser set over the shores of Lake Okanagan at the Penticton Lakeside Resort.

Moving south to Oliver, the Toasted Oak is the place to eat for lunch or dinner. The wine selection is deep and the wine industry people-watching is the best in the valley. Just out of town, Burrowing Owl Winery takes dining up a considerable notch at the Sonora Room. With the opening of a new separate tasting room, you can now dine in considerable peace.

Osoyoos is coming to life with Nk'Mip Spirit Lodge leading the way. A new restaurant, Passatempo, has just opened its doors. While I haven't dined there yet, it looks as if it will definitely be the place to eat in Osoyoos. Certainly you should plan to visit the Nk'Mip camp complete with winery, hotel, golf course and its Desert Interpretation Centre.

If you are not able to make it to the Okanagan this month, you can still buy the wines in town and hold your own festival at home.

Pick up some CedarCreek "Classic" Pinot Gris 2005, a reasonable bargain at $16.99. Love the floral, green apple, nectarine skin nose and the mineral, baked green apple, citrus and lees flavours. Crisp and dry, this would work well with a goat cheese dish.

The Quails' Gate Chardonnay Limited Release 2004 is another tasty white. Look for grapefruit, butterscotch, smoky oak and mineral, honey flavours with touch of butter and bread dough in the finish.

Attractive, bright, correct sauvignon aromas of grass, lime rind and tropical fruit describe the Mission Hill Sauvignon Blanc Reserve 2005. Fresh with a full, fruity mid-palate and finish, this would be great with steamed mussels.

You may not know much about Zweigelt, but it's the most widely grown red grape variety in Austria and it's responsible for the ripe, juicy, cherry fruit flavours of the Arrowleaf Zweigelt 2004. This is simple clean, medium-bodied red wine that is ready to drink. Light meats and poultry could be the perfect match.

Much further south, Black Sage Bench plays home to the Sandhill Cabernet Merlot 2004. It opens dry and warm on the palate with vanilla, tobacco and bits of savoury mocha coffee. Well made, it should further improve in the bottle over the next year.

The Hawthorne Mountain Merlot 2004 will surprise for the price. The nose has an appealing red currant and spice scent with roasted licorice and vanilla pudding notes. It's smooth and round on the palate with more smoky plummy fruit. It has fine balance and an attractive price. There is real value here.


CEDARCREEK 'CLASSIC' PINOT GRIS 2005, OKANAGAN VALLEY
Price: $15.99
UPC: 778913025099
Score: 87/100
Remarks: Floral, green apple, nectarine skin and citrus notes.

QUAILS' GATE CHARDONNAY LIMITED RELEASE 2004, OKANAGAN VALLEY
Price: $18.99
UPC: 778856104011
Score: 87/100
Remarks: Clean, fresh, contemporary chardonnay best served with food.

MISSION HILL SAUVIGNON BLANC RESERVE 2005, OKANAGAN VALLEY
Price: $18.99
UPC: 776545991164
Score: 88/100
Remarks: You can pair this with many different foods, making it an attractive buy.

ARROWLEAF ZWEIGELT 2004, OKANAGAN VALLEY
Price: $16.90
UPC: 626990024279
Score: 86/100
Remarks: A clean, medium-bodied red that is ready to drink.

SANDHILL CABERNET MERLOT 2004 SANDHILL ESTATE VINEYARD, OKANAGAN VALLEY
Price: $18.99
UPC: 058976360260
Score: 88/100
Remarks: Dry smooth textured red wine; served with grilled meats.

HAWTHORNE MOUNTAIN MERLOT 2004, OKANAGAN VALLEY
Price: $14.99
UPC: 624738007010
Score: 88/100
Remarks: Terrific value in B.C. merlot.

Written By: ag
Anthony Gismondi
Anthony Gismondi

Anthony Gismondi is a Canadian wine journalist and one of North America's most influential voices in wine. For over 30 years, he has been the wine columnist for The Vancouver Sun. The twice-weekly column is distributed across Canada through the Postmedia Network to millions of readers. In addition, Anthony hosts the BC Food & Wine Radio Show, broadcast in 25 markets across B.C. and available as a podcast on major platforms. He launched Gismondionwine.com in 1997, attracting one million monthly users from 114 countries. It continues to be a valuable resource full of tasting notes, intelligent wine stories and videos for the trade and consumers. Conversations with wine personalities are available on his  YouTube Channel.