October 9/05 - B.C.'s Best From A to Z

The wines are organised by winery and within each set the reviews are sorted by grape variety. The minimum score required to make the list is 87/100.

87 Arrowleaf Red Feather 2004 Pinot Noir - Chardonnay
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $12.99 Winery, VQA Wine Stores and Private Retailers
Red Feather is a refreshing blend of pinot noir, merlot and auxerrois with a pale salmon colour. The aroma is a mix of mint and strawberry with a hint of minerality. Quite fresh and round with just enough sugar and acidity to keep your interest. A perfect summer patio wine and that's two vintages in a row. Well done.

87 Black Hills Nota Bene 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon - Merlot - Cabernet Franc
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $31.95 Winery Only
The latest Nota Bene a 46/34/20/ cabernet sauvignon / merlot / cabernet franc is much cleaner than past versions on the nose and palate but the flavour profile remains smoky, roasted bell pepper with earthy, tobacco, olive, coffee/resin notes. It is dry round and smooth on entry with supple tannins (yeah) followed by spicy, vanilla, resiny, peppery, black olive flavours laced with tobacco leaf, mineral and licorice flavours. The finish is warm. It needs another 2-4 years to fully develop and hopefully reveal more fruit tones.

87 Blasted Church Chardonnay Musque 2004
Okanagan Falls, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
AB $26.95; BC $16.99 Winery, VQA/PWS
Creamy lees, bread dough/mineral, buttery citrus nose with streaks of white peach. Aromatic style chardonnay made in stainless steel with a fresh tropical fruit (mango pineapple) flavour with a nutty honey undercurrent. Well done. Only 440 cases made.

88 Blasted Church Merlot 2003
Okanagan Falls, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $22.99 VQA Wine Stores; Private Wine Shops
A super dark opaque colour previews a rich spicy nose of black raspberry and smoky, tobacco leaf. The entry is smooth (there is plenty of alcohol) and supple (light tannins) with cedar-y, coffee, smoky, black cherry, vanilla fruit. A warm year has ripen the fruit and spiked the alcohol but this will be enjoyed by many.

87 Blasted Church Pinot Blanc 2004
Okanagan Falls, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
AB $24.95; BC $14.99 Winery, VQA/PWS
The '04 has fresh pale straw look and the nose confirms the eye offering red apple/pear notes with an exotic streak of orange rind. Winemaker Marcus Ansems prefers the austere steely style hence the stainless steel only ferment and extended lees contact with some stirring. Very likeable citrus finish. Food friendly.

87 Blasted Church Pinot Gris 2004
Okanagan Falls, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
AB $26.50; BC $18.99 Winery, VQA/PWS
Avoiding the bouts of botrytis was the key to surviving the '04 harvest in B.C. and fortunately at Blasted Church the pinot gris came through unscathed. Only 10 per cent of the wine sees wood (yeah) as evidenced by its earthy mineral nose and flavours. Not overly intense but there is enough peachy nectarine fruit and citrus to carry the finish. Solid but not cheap.

88 Blue Mountain Vineyard Brut N/V Pinot Noir - Chardonnay - Pinot Gris
Okanagan Falls, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $21.95 Winery
Blue Mountain sparkling wines are méthode traditionnelle, meaning the traditional techniques for making French Champagne are employed faithfully. Finished dry, these wines are aged sur-lie for two-and-a-half to five years prior to being disgorged. They then receive an additional six to nine months of aging preceding release. Look for fine, creamy mousse. Green apple, floral, creamy, mineral aromas. Dry, round, creamy texture with green apple, citrus, light biscuit, floral, anise flavours. Not big but well balanced with good acidity.

87 Burrowing Owl Merlot 2003
Oliver, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $24.90 Winery Only
Spicy, resiny, clove aromas spiked with dill, stewed tomato, vanilla bits of black cherry and chocolate. The entry is round, the palate full-bodied with dry tannins. Tobacco leaf, black cherry, tomato, black olive, chocolate pudding, vanilla flavours with a wisp of mineral and a warm, slightly resiny finish. Somewhat reminiscent of St. Émilion. Good but with more green notes and slightly tougher tannins, we have not seen here since the early days. Needs another two to three years in bottle to blossom.

89 Burrowing Owl Pinot Gris 2004
Oliver, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $20.00 Winery
Another fine effort from BOV albeit slightly leaner and crisper than in the past and showing a touch more alcohol. Look for a floral, spicy, citrus, light buttery nose with mineral, earthy aromas. Round, dry, elegant palate with grapefruit rind, minerals and spice with light buttery lees and green apple flavours.

88 CedarCreek Cabernet Merlot 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon - Merlot
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $16.95
Quite a deep red/black cherry red, showing high extraction of color. The aroma has good ripeness, an aroma of stewed fruit, roasted, but in a pleasant way. Dry, very full, ripe, alcoholic, black fruits, balanced tannins, plenty of concentration, balanced acidity, soft mid palate but slightly chewy texture. This is quite impressive - powerful wine with plenty of ripeness and extraction. Very good quality and value.

87 CedarCreek Dry Riesling 2004
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $14.99 Winery, VQA Wine Stores
Winemaker Tom DiBello demonstrates a fine touch here exposing the juicy fruit of this variety. Look for a super fresh entry mixing green apple, green peach aromas juicy ripe citrus, red apple, and mineral lime rind flavours that are lip-smacking good. Very cool B.C. white that will work with a wide variety of west coast dishes. Excellent value.

87 Garry Oaks Fetish 2003 Merlot - Cabernet Sauvignon
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $27.95 Winery, VQA Wine Stores
Cherry, vanilla, peppery, spicy, tobacco, resiny aromas. Ripe, round, dry and slightly tannic with good cherry jam, peppery, spicy, licorice, smoky vanilla flavours. Very dry finish with somewhat tight tannins and acidity. Needs 2-4 years to fully round out.

87 Gehringer Brothers Pinot Gris Private Reserve 2004
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $13.49 Specialty
Floral, pear, red apple, honey, slightly leesy aromas. Ripe, round, dry palate but elegant with green apple, honey, citrus rind, gooseberry and floral flavours with a crisp finish. Solid and very good value.

89 Herder Merlot 2003
Similkameen Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $18.90 Winery
Spicy, peppery, earthy, coffee, vanilla, resin, tobacco aromas. Ripe, rich round but dry with some gritty, grainy tannins. Big spicy, clove, coffee, vanilla, peppery, licorice, black cherry jam flavours with some Christmas pudding notes. Good balance if a bit oaky, tannic and hot at this stage. Keep for 3-5 years. Fine effort.

87 Herder Pinot Gris Bellamy Vineyards 2004
Keremeos, Similkameen Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $14.90 Winery and LRS
Floral, mineral, honey, baked pear, citrus rind aromas. Ripe, round, crisp and fresh with spicy lees, mineral, pear, apple skin and honey flavours with a dry, honeyed finish. A bit austere but very fine intensity. Another solid effort form Herder.

88 Inniskillin Okanagan Pinot Blanc Dark Horse Estate Vineyard 2004
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $15.49 Specialty
Floral perfumed, bubblegum, honey-scented nose with red apple, mineral, grapefruit rind aromas. Very fresh. Round, elegant palate with fresh acidity and a touch of oiliness. Spicy, mineral, slate, green apple skin, floral, citrus flavours. Attractive style for drinking or with food. Well done.

87 Lake Breeze Cabernet Merlot 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon - Merlot
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $0.00 VQA Wine Stores
Very peppery, spicy, clove nose with vanilla, chocolate, black cherry and tobacco highlights. Dry, round, full-bodied with light dry tannins. Smoky, resin, vanilla, peppery, spicy, licorice flavours with stewed cherry and mint. A bit hot and chunky, should improve over the next year or so.

89 Lake Breeze Pinot Blanc 2004
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $14.90 VQA Wine Stores
Fresh mix of pear, mineral, nectarine skin, perfumed fruit nose with a hint of honey lees. Very lively on the palate with citrus, peach, butter, clover, honey and green apple flavours. A touch sweet but has good acidity and fruit intensity. Drink by the case.

88 Lake Breeze Semillon 2004
Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $15.90 VQA Wine Stores
Fresh grapefruit, gooseberry, melon, grassy butter aromas, very fresh. Clean, crisp, round palate with a light oiliness. Grassy, bell pepper, gooseberry, grapefruit flavours with a mineral, slightly sweet finish. Well done.

87 Lake Breeze Seven Poplars Pinotage 2003
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $22.90 VQA Wine Stores
The only pinotage we know of in North America. Look for a leafy, cherry, tarry, spicy nose with flecks of vanilla and licorice. Soft, ripe, round and supple. Ripe cherry, mocha, spicy vanilla, licorice, white pepper, tobacco leaf flavours. Warm finish and a touch dry and oaky but should improve over the next year or two. Well done.

87 Lang Vineyards Riesling Farm Winery Reserve 2004
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $13.90 VQA Wine Stores
Light matchstick with green apple, citrus, honey, and pineapple aromas. Elegant and slightly sweet with mineral, bitter citrus rind, passion fruit, green apple and floral flavours. The crisp acidity gives it a bit of a sweet and sour finish but it should work well with food. It will also improve in bottle for another year or two.

89 Lang Vineyards Riesling Late Harvest 2004
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $15.90 VQA Wine Stores
Another magic moment from Lang. Rich ripe red apple notes mixed with peach, honey and orange aromas and some lingering matchstick notes that blow off in the glass. Very crisp and elegant with light sweetness but perfectly balanced. Ripe orange, mineral, honey, red apple flavours with a touch of grapefruit on the finish. Reminiscent of a German kabinett or spätlese. Delicious with finesse and low alcohol. Bravo and I love the realistic pricing.

88 Mission Hill Pinot Gris Reserve 2004
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
AB $17.25; BC $18.99 Specialty; VQA and Private Wine Shops; MB $16.59; NB $18.69; ON $18.95; SK $17.99
Grapefruit, red apple, mineral, lees, honey and quince aromas. Round, dry, crisp and fresh but nicely balanced with honey, grapefruit, green apple, spicy, buttery mineral flavours. Nice intensity and fruit but finishes a bit on the dry side. To be released late summer 2005.

89 Mission Hill S.L.C. Syrah 2003
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
AB $31.00 fine wine boutiques; BC $34.99 Winery, Mark Anthony Wine Marts, Private Wine Shops; MB $34.99; ON $34.00
Tight coffee, pepper, spicy nose with floral, black cherry, licorice root notes and smoky, vanilla-pudding tones. The entry is soft and rich, the best yet for a young Mission Hill syrah with grainy tannins in the back end. Fine minty, peppery, coffee, smoky vanilla, black cherry and tobacco flavours. Needs a few years to fully integrate and round out but well made cool climate syrah. Very promising, be patient. Good value.

88 Orofino Merlot Cabernet 2003 Merlot - Cabernet Sauvignon
Cawston, Similkameen Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $29.95 Winery
Big chocolate vanilla, tobacco nose mixed with smoky pepper, mineral, cherry and saddle leather aromas. Rich, round, structured and ripe with grainy tannins. Lots of smoky vanilla, chocolate espresso, tobacco, black cherry flavours. Chunky, chewy finish - very young, should improve over the next 2-5 years. Good effort.

87 Orofino Pinot Noir 2003
Cawston, Similkameen Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $29.95 Winery
Attractive floral, cherry, spicy vanilla nose with a smoky, compost undercurrent with a touch of rhubarb. Dry, rich, alcoholic with a chewy tannic structure. Big spicy, smoky vanilla, peppery, black cherry, cedar-y, stewed prune flavours. The nose shows promise but the textures are too dry and tannic. There's promise here especially if they decide to back off the 100 percent new oak.

87 Quails' Gate Cabernet Sauvignon Family Reserve 2003
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
AB $35.00 Fine Wine Boutiques; BC $35.00 Winery, Limited Specialty; MB $35.00
Very peppery, smoky vanilla, resiny nose with earthy, blackberry aromas and a bit of a port-like aspect. Rich, round, dry and warm with gritty tannins and peppery, chocolate, vanilla, cedar, blackberry, licorice root and leather flavours. The finish is dry warm and tannic at this point and it's showing plenty oak too. This needs 3-4 years to smooth out and let the fruit shine through.

91 Quails' Gate Merlot Family Reserve 2002
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $40.00 Specialty
Super spicy, vanilla, clove nose with notes of coffee and pudding. Rich, round, ripe smooth tannins with big alcohol and lifted fruit flavours. On the palate look for big smoky oak, coffee, vanilla flavours with streaks of licorice and cedar. A very warm year has left this a bit over ripe but it's well worth cellaring to see how it develops over the next few years.

87 Quails' Gate Merlot Limited Release 2003
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
AB $19.99 Private Wine Shops; BC $19.99; MB $19.99; NS $19.99; ON $19.99; SK $19.99
Smoky, spicy, cardamom, cherry, coffee, vanilla, stewed aromas. Soft, round, dry, slightly tannic entry with very smoky, clove, vanilla, coffee, peppery, cedar flavours with a chewy, cherry, minty finish. A bit young and lean but solid.

88 Quails' Gate O.V.F. Reserve Old Vines Foch 2003
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
AB $35.00 Fine Wine Boutiques; BC $35.00 Winery
Big vanilla, spicy, smoky oak, cassis, gamey, bacon aromas. Soft, round, supple entry with ripe tannins. Plenty of chocolate coffee, vanilla, smoky oak, floral, black cherry and green peppercorn flavours. A bit lean on the finish but very well made with lots of oak.

87 Sandhill Cabernet Merlot Burrowing Owl Vineyard 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon - Merlot
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $17.99 Winery, VQA/PWS
Tobacco, spicy, earthy, green olive, cassis aromas with some tomato leaf streaks. Round, dry, warm entry with smoky vanilla, tobacco leaf, mineral, cassis, cedar, chocolate flavours. Finish is quite dry with young, grainy, chewy tannins. Should improve over the next 2-3 years.

87 Summerhill Pyramid Ehrenfelser 2004
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $18.95 VQA Stores, Private Wine Shops
Fabulous sweet fruit nose with orange peel and ripe red apples. Similar fruit flavours with flecks of mineral, grapefruit and sweet peachy fruit flavours. A very appealing summer sipper with enough sweet fruit to pair well with spicy Thai or Indian food. One of the best Summerhill wines tasted in years.

88 Thornhaven Gewurztraminer 2004
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $13.90 Speculative - Peacock and Martin
Spicy, lychee, floral, perfumed fruit, mineral, buttery peach aromas. Ripe, round, rich but sweet with peach, floral, citrus, buttery, lychee and grapefruit flavours. Good intensity with a long fruit finish.

88 Tinhorn Creek Gewürztraminer 2004
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $14.50 VQA Wine Stores
The latest Tinhorn gewürztraminer follows in the fresh, mineral, floral, ripe, lychee nut fruit, footsteps of its previous edition. This is gewürztraminer with attitude, red apple fruit, spicy, honey, and just a touch of bitter lime rind on the finish. Think Thai or Indian or just pop it open on a warm summer's day. Only the screwcap is missing.

88 Township 7 Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
Oliver, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $20.90 Winery and LRS
Open peppery, meaty, spicy nose with smoky, cassis aromas tobacco, mint and black olive. Dry, round, elegant but somewhat tight. Cassis, spicy, leafy, mineral, earthy, tobacco flavours. Nice finesse and balance but needs some additional fruit. Shoul dimprove in bottle over the next two to three years.

88 Township 7 Chardonnay 2004
Oliver, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $17.90 Winery and LRS
Light butter and lees notes mix with peach, melon, green apple aromas streaked with citrus undertones. The entry is round and elegant, the palate soft but fresh with grapefruit rind, mineral, green apple, buttery, honey flavours. Crisp, some finesse, like a buttery mineral Chablis-style. Well done.

87 Township 7 Semillon 2003
Oliver, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $14.90 Winery and LRS
Grapefruit, melon, grassy, fig and mineral aromas mark the nose of this Black Sage fruit. Soft, round, elegant and fresh with grassy, grapefruit, buttery green melon and mineral flavours. Simple, dry white with a touch of bitterness in the finish.

90 Township 7 Syrah 2002
Oliver, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $22.90 Winery and LRS
Smoky sausage, peppery, spicy, leather, black berry aromas. Soft, round, elegant style with black cherry, spicy, licorice, floral, roasted coffee flavours with a warm, peppery, leather mineral finish. Good finesse, supple, has some Rhone like similarities. An excellent interpretation of B.C. syrah. Sold out.

87 Township 7 Un-Oaked Chardonnay 2004
Oliver, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $13.90 Winery and LRS
Green apple, mineral, green melon aromas. Dry, round, elegant and fresh with some crisp acidity and a touch of oiliness. Green apple skin, mineral, grassy, green peach flavours. Nice finesse easy drinking style, if a touch green in the finish.

87 Township 7 White Meritage 2003 Sauvignon Blanc - Sémillon
Oliver, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $17.90 Winery and LRS
The Meritage is 100 barrel fermented and blends 33 per cent sémillon with 67 per cent sauvignon blanc. Look for oaky, vanilla, buttery notes with rich honey, mineral, chalky, canned grapefruit aromas and some attractive fig and waxy lanolin hints underneath. Round, soft, slightly fat style with vanilla, honey, mineral, buttery fig flavours and a touch of bitterness. Lacks integration at this point and a bit of and concentration. Less oak would perhaps better express the fruit. Good effort.

87 Wild Goose Gewurztraminer 2004
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $14.95 Speculative - Peacock and Martin
Light spicy, mineral, green apple skin, perfumed fruit nose. Drier, fresh, crisp palate but elegant with rose petal, mineral, green apple skin and soapy floral flavours. The finish is crisp showing more citrus rind and a touch of butter. Solid.

88 Wild Goose Mystic River Pinot Blanc 2003
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $16.95 Speculative - Peacock and Martin
Floral, green apple, spicy, perfumed fruit nose with some citrus and grass notes. Round, elegant and fresh with mineral, red apple, pear, citrus, buttery floral flavours and a chalky finish. Fine crisp finish. Good value.

88 Wild Goose Pinot Gris 2004
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $14.95 Speculative - Peacock and Martin
Green apple skin, pear, honey, spicy earth aromas. Ripe, round, fresh and fat with baked apple, melon, citrus, spicy pear flavours. Dry, juicy finish with good citrus and pear flavours. Well made.