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Anthony Gismondi on Wine

Each month we spend a great deal of time tasting imported wine and interviewing the people involved in growing and making the wines.

October 6/07 - Top Import Wine Picks in Canada

Our picks Under $15 is a salute to the best value import wines tasted in the last 90 days or so, available in Canada and many other markets worldwide. Anthony Gismondi

 

WHITE

 

88 Castaño Macabeo Chardonnay 2006 Chardonnay - Macabeo

Yecla, Valencia and Murcia, Spain

BC $9.99 speculative listing - Next Beverage

Floral, honeysuckle, spicy, peach, almond, red apple and honey aromas. Ripe, round, fresh palate that is a tad fat but is well balanced. Mineral, citrus, honey, passion fruit, ginger and apple skin flavours. Fine seafood or turkey wine, has a bit of Albariño like characters. Incredible value. What more can you ask for at this price? A 50/50 blend of macabeo and chardonnay.

 

87 Koonunga Hill Chardonnay 2006

South Eastern Australia, Australia

AB $14.00 private wine shops; BC $15.00 specialty listing; MB $15.00; NB $15.23; NF $15.00; NS

$13.50; ON $14.15; QC $16.00; SK $16.00

The chardonnay in Koonunga Hill is still sourced from multiple districts with significant contributions from South Australia GIs Clare and Padthaway. The nose is open the entry is soft with tart apples and citrus aromas, it's all good. On the palate the fruit is bright with peachy, buttery, melon flavours with creamy, oily textures in the finish. A very solid performer.

 

87 Miguel Torres Santa Digna Seleccion Sauvignon Blanc 2006

Valle del Curicó, Region del Valle Central, Chile

ON $12.95 Vintages

The '06 Reserve is a super fresh statement of citrus, mineral and lime rind with flecks of gooseberry and melon. Light airy and clean on entry the mix of grapefruit and mineral, gooseberries and green apples benefit form no wood. A fun oyster wine but will be just as effective with an array of seafood. Great value. Should be listed across the country.

 

87 Santa Cristina Antinori Pinot Grigio 2006

Tuscany, Italy

BC $14.99 specialty listing

New from Antinori and this Sicilian pinot grigio is a winner. Look for a bright fresh, citrus floral nose that follows through on the palate. Snappy fresh and affordable this is grigio that works for the price and screams Italy too. Good value.

 

87 Tormaresca Chardonnay 2005

Apulia, Italy

AB $12.99 private wine shop; BC $13.99 specialty listing; SK $14.19

Tormaresca chardonnay blends fruit from both key Tormaresca estates: Bocca di Lupo in Murgia, and Masseria Maime in Salento. It's partially barrel fermented which accounts for its buttery peach aromas and flavours, but you can also taste the minerals and the nearby sea influence on the nose and palate. A soft, fresh, ripe apple/citrus chardonnay with an elegant demeanour that reflects its European origins in flavour and style. Try with sole or other light, simply prepared fish dishes.

 

86 Garci Grande Verdejo Viura Rueda 2006 Verdejo - Viura

Rueda, Castilla-Leon, Spain

BC $13.99

A classic mix of verdejo and viura that has a fresh clean upfront scent but remains richer and fatter that you might expect on the palate. It's fairly warm and round in the finish suggesting this could be much more than just a summer sipper.

 

86 Leopard's Leap The Lookout Chenin Blanc - Chardonnay - Colombard 2006

Western Cape, South Africa

BC $11.99 specialty listing

A clean nose is great start. Fresh notes of citrus, green apple and honey aromas and flavours. A dry, lip-smacking finish suggests oysters, clams or simple white fish dishes.

 

85 Mapu Sauvignon Blanc Chardonnay 2006 Sauvignon Blanc - Chardonnay

Region del Valle Central, Chile

AB $9.95 private wine shops; BC $10.99 specialty listing

The '06 Mapu blend continues as a 60/40 sauvignon blanc/chardonnay but this version is crisper and fresher with more grassy sauvignon blanc showing through and just a touch of bitterness. Clean fresh

simple affordable white wine for mid-week meals. Good value.

 

85 Peter Lehmann Weighbridge Unwooded Chardonnay 2006

South Australia, Australia

AB $14.95 private wine shops; BC $14.00 specialty listing; MB $13.00

Consistently fresh on nosing with bright floral tones a touch of lees and citrus. The entry is tart with mineral grapefruit rind, and baked apple notes. Fairly tart with a twist of lemon rind twist in the end. Best with food.

 

ROSÉ

 

87 Talamonti Rosé Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Cerasuolo 2003

Abruzzo, Italy

BC $13.99 specialty listing

This cherry red "Cerasuolo" wine sets up dry and earthy in the classic Euro/Italian style. On the palate the acidity is vibrant in essence highlighting the earthy, black fruit flavours. Perfectly styled for food and likely a wide variety. Think hamburgers and grilled sausages to pasta salads. Great value

 

87 Torres De Casta Rosé 2006 Garnacha - Cariñena

Catalunya, Spain

BC $12.99 specialty listing; US $10.00 retail

The Torres pink is masterful blend of garnacha tinta and cariñena begun in 1941. The nose is clean and fresh, bursting with black raspberry and cherry scents. On the palate it is agreeably round and crisp with the perfect touch of sweetness. Floral raspberry fruit flavours hold your interest  throughout. Perfect with a salade niçoise or corn on the cob.

 

RED

 

88 Bisquertt Casa La Joya Reserve Carmenère 2004

Valle del Colchagua, Valle del Rapel, Region del Valle Central, Chile

BC $14.95 estimated price

The La Joya Reserve has fine intensity moving everything up a notch form the regular. Look for intense herbal smoky peppery black fruit, with a touch of jalapeño and smooth silky tannins. Perfectly constructed for grilled meats or pork. Drink or hold for three to five years.

 

87 Bodega Lurton Malbec 2006

Medrano, Northern Region, Mendoza, Argentina2

BC $13.49 specialty listing; NS $13.00; ON $11.15 Vintages

Lurton manages to suppress the savoury earthy characters of Mendoza, pushing them into the background in favour of a slightly cleaner, fruiter style. Look for more black fruit flavours with a smooth, supple palate. It has impressive texture and weight and should be a big hit for the price.

 

87 Casillero del Diablo Shiraz 2006

Region del Valle Central, Chile

AB $12.25; BC $12.95 specialty listing; MB $11.95; NF $12.29; SK $13.10

It's hard to believe this wine could be so consistent year after year, but it is. Always peppery, it has just enough smoky meaty notes grab your attention before the cherry and chocolate kicks in. This is outstanding for the price and pretty much in a field of its own at $13.

 

87 Chateau Paul Mas Clos des Mures 2005 Shiraz - Grenache

Coteaux du Languedoc, Languedoc, South of France, France

BC $13.99 speculative listing - Charton-Hobbs

Château Paul Mas, part of the Domaines Paul Mas estates, is set on the Mediterranean coast, near the villages of Montagnac and Sète. Clos des Mûres is an 11 hectare site and the wine mixes 83 per cent syrah with 12/5 grenache mourvèdre split. This is a rough and ready red for wine drinkers. Not as silky as most would like but smoky meaty fruit flavours and a pinch of tannin let you know it's alive.

 

87 Hardys Oomoo Shiraz 2005

McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia

AB $17.49 private wine shop; NF $20.04; NS $21.74

Black cherry, cedar, plum jam, vanilla, spicy, earthy, barnyard nose with a bit of bacon and coffee. Round, dry, slightly tannic palate but balanced. Earthy, black cherry, bacon, peppery, coffee, vanilla, rootsy flavours. Finish is a bit warm and tart. Solid style to drink now with meat or keep 1-2 years.

 

87 Morandé Carmenère 2005

Valle del Maipo, Region del Valle Central, Chile

BC $12.99 speculative listing - Stile Wines

Another stylish effort form Morandé deliver all you could ask for at this price level. Unabashedly carmenère with is herbaceous leafy nose but with a soft peppery fruity demeanour flecked with chocolate. Fine value for carmenère freaks. Serve liberally around the barbecue.

 

87 Tormaresca Neprica 2004 Negroamaro - Primitivo - Cabernet Sauvignon

Apulia, Italy

AB $12.95 private wine shop; BC $14.99 specialty listing; SK $14.97

The clever Neprica blends ne-groamaro, pr-imitivo and ca-bernet sauvignon to capture the warm, almost tropical essence of southern Italy. Chocolate, licorice and black fruit with flecks of mineral and anise make this a perfect introduction to the New South wrapped in an earthy, inviting style. A solid performer spaghetti Bolognese, grilled sausages and flank steak.

 

87 Trivento Reserve Syrah 2005

Mendoza, Argentina2

BC $13.98 specialty listing; NF $15.95

Trivento has its eye on value and this Reserve syrah is likely as good as any label yet we've seen from this Concha y Toro property in Mendoza. Expect dense meaty peppery, black fruit with a twist of savoury Argentine spice. Warm rustic, and affordable it's the perfect antidote to a cool, autumn evening.

 

87 Trivento Amado Sur Malbec Bonarda Syrah 2005

Mendoza, Argentina

BC $15.00 specialty listing

A new listing form Trivento now well established as a quality for money producer. This is a big rich savoury malbec, further bolster by a 30 per cent mix of bonarda and syrah. The entry is sweet and spicy with peppery mid-palate tones and ripe plummy dark fruit flavours. Lots of smoke and vanilla. Good if a bit-like an Australia wannabe.

 

86 Anakena Carmenère 2006

Valle del Rapel, Region del Valle Central, Chile

BC $13.50 specialty listing

Anakena has all the classic, minty cassis and dill notes of carmenère with plenty of earthy tobacco leafy compost minty chocolate flavours on the palate. Smooth and ripe it should appeal to carmenère lovers. It is certainly good value.

 

86 Bishop's Selection Côtes du Rhone Villages 2005 Grenache - Syrah

Côtes-du-Ventoux, Southern Rhone, Rhone Valley, France

BC $13.99 specialty listing

This is a screwcap southern Rhone blend that according to the label includes syrah, although I'm betting it's mostly grenache. The nose is clean and full of cedar-y, raspberry notes. On the palate it is medium weight with some obvious acidity poking through (it is French) and a dry, leathery finish. Straight-up, affordable, if simple barbecue red. Serve with flank steak or burgers or with a mix of cheeses.

 

86 Château de Valcombe Costières de Nîmes 2005 Shiraz - Grenache

Costières de Nîmes, Languedoc, South of France, France

BC $12.99 speculative listing - Vino Allegro

Chateau de Valcombe is a Costières de Nîmes (south of France) blend of syrah and grenache with

floral mineral, black fruit notes on the nose. The textures are soft and pliable with red fruits and

meaty, licorice finish. Perfect for fall menus items such as mushrooms and stews.

 

86 Finca Flichman Misterio Malbec Oak Aged 2006

Mendoza, Argentina2

BC $14.00 speculative listing - Charton Hobbs; ON $9.95 Vintages

It's difficult to ignore the Misterio Malbec if you consider what you get for the money. Look for earthy vanilla and dark fruit aromas and flavours. The finish is rustic yet with supple tannins and just a twist of vanilla. A solid mid-week red.

 

86 Hardys Stamp Series Shiraz - Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 Shiraz - Cabernet Sauvignon

South Eastern Australia, Australia

BC $12.49 specialty listing; NS $10.39; PEI $11.29

Earthy, tobacco, blueberry, licorice nose with a smoky, shoe leather and briar streak. Soft, round, supple, slightly sweet entry. Spicy, blueberry, black cherry, licorice, tobacco and resin flavours. Very consumer friendly style without too much of an acidic bite.

 

86 Palo Alto Reserva 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon - Carmenère - Syrah

Valle del Maule, Region del Valle Central, Chile

BC $14.99

The '06 blend of cabernet sauvignon, syrah and carmenère comes in a slightly denser package than the '05. It's has all the bell pepper and bay leaf character but with more pepper and plummy, black fruits. A step up from the 2005, with a little less acidity poking through. Serve with simply prepared grilled meats.

 

86 Trapiche Estate Reserve Malbec 2005

Mendoza, Argentina2

AB $10.75; BC $11.99 specialty listing; MB $11.49; SK $12.49

Trapiche always has a soft, easy-sipping style and this malbec is no different. There plenty of plummy fruit and spice in a ripe setting. The tannins are soft and the finish is clean with just a whiff of those characteristic meaty, savoury notes. Fine value in an everyday red.

 

85 Argento Malbec 2006

Mendoza, Argentina2

ON $10.05

The '06 Argento exhibits bright floral notes and red fruit aromas. On the palate the wine is bright an lively with good acidity and spicy blackberry/brambleberry notes. The finish is clean and fruity. Good value.

 

85 Melini Chianti 2005

Tuscany, Italy

AB $12.25 private wine shop; BC $12.99 general listing

Melini Chianti remains the classic regional sangiovese with its cedar-y, sappy, floral notes and skinny textures. Light hints of cherries and almonds mark its short dry aftertaste. Simple, unadorned, sangiovese that needs a bit of fat to tame its acidic after bite.

 

85 Palo Alto Reserva 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon - Carmenère - Syrah

Valle del Maule, Region del Valle Central, Chile

BC $14.99

The blend is cabernet sauvignon, syrah and carmenère. It's all very Chile with its deep colour and

medicinal minty, bay leave nose. The fruit is a mix of leafy black currants with bits of cranberry,

chocolate and coffee. Round supple and with just a twist of lemon in the finish.

 

85 Torres Coronas Tempranillo 2004

Catalunya, Spain

AB $13.00 private wine shops; BC $13.25 specialty listing; QC $13.95

Compost, earthy, chocolate, gamey, leather nose with a touch of cherry. Dry, round, elegant, lightly

tannic palate with black cherry, menthol, gamey, earthy flavours. Fresh, dry finish that will go

well with basic foods. Solid value.

 

Written By: ag
Anthony Gismondi
Anthony Gismondi

Anthony Gismondi is a Canadian wine journalist and one of North America's most influential voices in wine. For over 30 years, he has been the wine columnist for The Vancouver Sun. The twice-weekly column is distributed across Canada through the Postmedia Network to millions of readers. In addition, Anthony hosts the BC Food & Wine Radio Show, broadcast in 25 markets across B.C. and available as a podcast on major platforms. He launched Gismondionwine.com in 1997, attracting one million monthly users from 114 countries. It continues to be a valuable resource full of tasting notes, intelligent wine stories and videos for the trade and consumers. Conversations with wine personalities are available on his  YouTube Channel.