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Anthony Gismondi on Wine

BUBBLE   87 Deinhard Lila Riesling Brut Sekt N/V Rheinhessen, Germany AB $11.00; BC $13.99 specialty listing; ON $12.95 It's difficult not to like a sparkling wine that offers taste and style for such a small price, but that's what you get from the Deinhard Lila Riesling Brut Sekt.

November 3/06 - Top Import Wine Picks in Canada

BUBBLE

 

87 Deinhard Lila Riesling Brut Sekt N/V

Rheinhessen, Germany

AB $11.00; BC $13.99 specialty listing; ON $12.95

It's difficult not to like a sparkling wine that offers taste and style for such a small price, but that's what you get from the Deinhard Lila Riesling Brut Sekt. Its attractive floral nose melts into a dry, round, elegant, but taut, sparkler with green apple, petrol, and slate, mineral, citrus and peach flavours. Weddings anyone? Or, try as a kir (with crème de cassis or raspberry liqueur).

 

86 Pink by Yellowglen N/V Pinot Noir - Chardonnay

Australia

AB $12.99 private wine shops; BC $12.99 specialty listing; MB $14.97; NS $13.99; ON $12.95; SK $14.97

Yellowglen has always been a great bubble maker in Oz and they have turned their expertise to this entry level blend of pinot noir and chardonnay. Upfront citrus fruit flavours with a hint of strawberry make it fun to sip al fresco or pair with tapas style food. Just sweet enough to take the edge off the acidity. This is a fun, albeit barely pink bubble at an affordable price.

 

WHITES

 

89 Goundrey Homestead Chardonnay Unwooded 2005

Great Southern, Western Australia, Australia

AB $12.65 private wine shops; BC $13.99 specialty listing; NB $10.89; QC $13.85

This is a terrific value white wine that delivers on all accounts without the use of any oak. The fruit comes from south Western Australia, including the cooler Mount Barker region where Homestead is located. We love the cool minerality and tight nervous palate that shows just enough fruit to balance it all out. Not your typical fruit bomb as one judge remarked. Killer value.

 

87 Bouchard Aîné & Fils Chardonnay 2005

Vin de Pays d'Oc, Languedoc, South of France, France

AB $11.99 private wine shops; BC $11.99 specialty

Ripe apple, lees, mineral, citrus skin, slightly floral nose. Round, dry, slightly tight but elegant style with green apple, smoky, mineral, light lees flavours with a touch of honey and a crisp finish. Good solid food wine that exhibits chardonnay character. Good value.

 

87 Cono Sur Viognier Limited Release 2005

Valle del Colchagua, Valle del Rapel, Region del Valle Central, Chile

BC $10.99

This wine goes from strength to strength and the price must be embarrassing to many other wines. The nose is full, spicy open and brimming with orange citrus notes. Only 40 per cent of the wine sees wood the rest is kept in stainless steel. The palate is fresh and dry with honey and mineral flavours. Serve well chilled all summer this is patio superstar.

 

87 Cono Sur Visión Sauvignon Blanc 2005

Valle de Casablanca, Region de Aconcagua, Chile

CDN $18.99 retail

The Visión Cono Sur sauvignon comes off gravel-base vineyards sites: Santa Elisa and Quitralmán Estates. Cool nights and foggy mornings have given this sauvignon a marvellous fresh floral nose streaked with citrus, asparagus and bell pepper. Clean and dry this is classic Casablanca sauvignon. Good value.

 

87 Ricasoli Torricello Chardonnay di Toscana 2004

Tuscany, Italy

QC $26.50

Spicy, nutty, leesy, baked apple, floral, mineral nose. Dry, crisp, round entry with hazelnut, spicy, mineral, green apple skin, citrus flavours. Good acidity, slightly austere, lean Italian-style but well made. Try with roasted chicken.

 

86 Adobe Chardonnay Orgánico 2005

Valle de Casablanca, Region de Aconcagua, Chile

BC $13.99

VOE Vinedos Orgánicos Emiliana is an independent company within the Concha y Toro group like Trivento; the difference is they are focused on organic wine production. Adobe Chardonnay is one of the first VOE wines to come into Canada and it's surprisingly stylish, affordable quality organic wine. Look for an open citrus honey melon fruit nose with a refreshingly lean mid-palate flecked with mineral and more honeyed fruit flavours. It's fairly warm (alcoholic) on the mid-palate but otherwise a decent organic chardonnay. The price is excellent.

 

86 Banfi Le Rime Chardonnay & Pinot Grigio 2004 Chardonnay - Pinot Grigio

Tuscany, Italy

BC $14.95 specialty listing; ON $12.95 Vintages

Grapefruit, mineral, smoky, floral, light melon nose. Crisp, round, dry style with red apple, grapefruit, mineral, almond flavours. Dryer style for grilled fish or shellfish.

 

86 Cono Sur Reserve Chardonnay 2005

Valle de Casablanca, Region de Aconcagua, Chile

CDN $15.00 retail; ON $13.95 Vintages

The Reserve is a blend of Casablanca estates fruit that gets a 60 40 wood versus stainless steel ferment where the wood is 90 new French oak. The style is softer and a bit more open showing ripe melon, mineral and citrus lime rind notes. Creamy but less well defined in the mouth and showing some dryness in the back end. Solid if unexciting compared to the aromatic varietals made at Cono Sur.

 

86 Cono Sur Riesling Limited Release 2005

Bio-Bio Valley, Chile

CDN $9.99 retail

Fresh bright simple fresh white wine that is stainless steel fermented. The Limited Release or entry level riesling boasts decent aromatics of fresh citrus fruit with alight mineral streak. Clean easy sipping white that delivers for the price. It's early days for Bio-Bio region but I'm sure you will hear more from this southern region.

 

86 Fazi Battaglia Titulus Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico 2004

Marche, Italy

BC $14.90 specialty listing

Consistently clean and fresh this verdicchio offers up the standard citrus, mineral almond notes on the nose and in the mouth with slightly oily textures at the back end. Dry, round, elegant. Its light, lemony mineral finish is just what the doctored order when you need a flavourful but light wine. Think clams and or mussels here.

 

86 KWV Chenin Blanc 2006

Western Cape, South Africa

BC $10.99 speculative listing - Maxxium Canada; MB $8.99; NB $10.41; NF $10.60; NS $10.89; ON $8.05

Banana, honey, green apple, floral, citrus nose. Soft, round, fresh, slightly sweet entry with red apple, floral, honey, and lime rind flavours with a touch of passion fruit. Simple, easy-sipping, clean style white wine. Good value.

 

86 Langhorne Crossing Chardonnay Riesling Verdelho 2004 Chardonnay - Riesling - Verdelho

Langhorne Creek, South Australia, Australia

AB $10.99 private wine shops; BC $11.99 specialty listing; MB $11.99

Good value here in what is essentially a summer sipper. The Riesling and verdelho appears to lift the fruit in the glass. Bright crisp tropical fruit flavours with a touch o bitterness and alcohol in the finish. Simple straight-up white for a mid-week curry dish.

 

86 Louis Latour Ardèche Chardonnay 2004

France

AB $11.50 private wine shops; BC $13.49 specialty listing; ON $10.95 general listing

Mineral, nutty, lees, spicy white floral nose. Elegant, dry, soft entry with buttery, leesy, mineral, apple skin flavours. Lean in a French way but solid and at a fair price.

 

86 Lurton Mendoza Pinot Gris 2005

Valle de Uco, Tunuyán, Central Region, Mendoza, Argentina2

AB $10.50 private wine shops; BC $11.49 specialty listing; ON $10.95 general listing; QC $15.35

Very floral, perfumy, ripe pear, red apple, mineral nose. Rich, round, fresh, slightly sweet entry with citrus, baked pear, apple flavours and nutty floral finish. Full, good fruit, slightly viscous style. Very good value when compare to B.C.

 

86 Simonsig Chenin Blanc 2005

Stellenbosch, Coastal Region, South Africa

AB $10.95 private wine shops; BC $13.99 specialty listing; ON $9.60 general listing

Very ripe peach, honey, pear, floral nose. Rich, round, fat and somewhat sweet with honey, baked pear, floral flavours with some quince and mineral. A bit too sweet but has great fruit and ripeness for a sipper or with Indian food.

 

86 Tamaya Sauvignon Blanc 2006

Limari Valley, Chile

BC $13.78 specialty listing

The Limari Valley remains unknown to most Chilean wine fans, but the valley located well to the north of Aconcagua and Santiago is a hotbed for chardonnay, sauvignon blanc and syrah. At $13.78, you will get your money's worth from this sauvignon with its big grapefruit, lime rind and passion fruit nose to its floral, gooseberry, smoky, lime flavours. Clean fresh, affordable and fun.

 

86 Woop Woop Verdelho 2005

South Eastern Australia, Australia

BC $14.81 specialty listing

Lime rind, butter, floral, grapefruit, grassy, honey nose. Round, fresh, sweet entry with honey, grassy, grapefruit, mineral flavours. Fun, simple, easy drinking style with crisp acidity on the finish.

 

REDS

 

89 J. Bouchon Carmenère Syrah Reserva 2005 Carmenère - Cabernet Sauvignon

Valle del Maule, Region del Valle Central, Chile

BC $12.95 speculative listing - AnaRona Wines

Consistently well made, the latest version Bouchon blend mixes big mint, cassis and sappy, floral, licorice aromas with floral (lavender), mineral chocolate notes. The palate is suitably round with just a touch of youthful grippy, tannins in the back end but there is plenty of peppery, minty, cassis jam, and chalky Carmenère flavour. Wonderful value.

 

88 Mas de Guiot Grenache Syrah 2005 Syrah - Grenache

Southern Rhone, Rhone Valley, France

AB $13.99 private wine shops; BC $14.99 speculative listing - Free House Wines & Spirits

A 60/40 blend of syrah / grenache with a smoky, spicy, garrigue, floral, black raspberry, gamey, licorice and chocolate nose. Round, warm, fat and dry with light tannins. Good black cherry, chocolate, peppery, licorice, orange peel, thyme and sausage flavours. A bit warm with some acidity showing but has very good intensity and fruit. Good value.

 

88 Finca Luzon Jumilla Organic 2005 Monastrell - Syrah - Cabernet Sauvignon - Tempranillo

Jumilla, Valencia and Murcia, Spain

BC $14.99

One of the best (and most affordable organic wines in the market) is back and the '05 vintage is even better. Love the rich gamey savoury chocolate, black fruit nose. Ripe and round on entry the textures are supple but with just enough acidity. Long warm, peppery, fruit flavours with more cherry chocolate and earth in the finish.

 

87 Borsão Selección Tinto Joven 2005 Garnacha - Tempranillo - Cabernet

Campo de Borja, Aragon, Spain

BC $14.99 specialty listing, Marquis Wine Cellars

A mix of mostly garnacha with tempranillo and cabernet sauvignon from Campo de Borja in the North of Spain. Much riper nose and far better fruit than the '04. The winery move form natural cork in '04 to synthetic in '05 and it looks like a good move. Black fruit dominates the mid-palate with licorice and spicy undertones and good acidity and an almost youthful grapey finish. Should be very appealing to that consumer moving away from the simple, sweet, introductory reds.

 

87 Vina Casablanca Syrah Coleccion Privada 2004

Valle del Maipo, Region del Valle Central, Chile

BC $13.99 specialty listing

Peppery, spicy, black berry, prune, smoky, roasted pepper aromas. Round, soft, dry, supple palate with minty, smoky, plum, peppery, earthy, meaty flavours with a touch of vanilla and clove. Good solid red for the richer dishes of fall and winter. Great value.

 

87 Vina Chilcaya Chardonnay Reserva 2005

Valle del Colchagua, Valle del Rapel, Region del Valle Central, Chile

AB $12.99

Viña Chilcaya or 'liquid gem' in native Mapuche is made by Viña Bisquertt for Gallo in Chile's Colchagua Valley. Look for a bright well made chardonnay with creamy pear and mineral flavours flecked with citrus and spice. Fine value.

 

87 La Bastide (Rouge) 2005 Syrah - Grenache - Carignan

Vin de Pays d'Hauterive, Languedoc, South of France, France

BC $9.99 specialty listing

Deep black cherry colour. Spicy, smoky, olive, black cherry, meaty, cedar nose with a touch of kirsch. Ripe, round, soft and balanced with lots of black cherry jam, licorice, meaty, spicy, peppery flavours with a raspberry finish. Great food wine and great value. What a difference compared to the 04. Drink with roast lamb or anything barbecue.

 

87 Flor de Crasto Douro Vinho Tinto 2004 Tinta Roriz - Tinta Barroca - Touriga Nacional

Douro Valley, Northern Portugal, Portugal

BC $13.99 specialty listing

I guess in our minds we were hoping for the price of the regular Crasto Douro red to come down but instead we have a new wine: Flor de Crasto that was built for early drinking. The tannins are softer, the fruit a bit more forward but it's still the Douro. The nose is impressive a sort of fragrance you might get if cross a sangiovese with a malbec. On the palate it's a dusty, earthy medium bodied red wine full of vim and vigour not to mention refreshing acidity. Enjoy all winter with grilled meats, stews or wherever the word rustic is used. Good value.

 

87 Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais 2005

Beaujolais, Burgundy, France

BC $14.95 general listing; QC $13.95

This is certainly one of the darkest coloured Beaujolais we've seen in years. The much heralded 2005 vintage in France has given this modest fruity quaffer a definite lift. Look for increased intensity and a bit spicier, cherry, floral fruit flavours. There is refreshing acidity throughout to remind you that this is French with juicy black fruit in the finish. It begs for food. Quail would be perfect.

 

87 Tormaresca Paiara 2003 Negroamaro - Cabernet Sauvignon

Apulia, Italy

AB $7.99 private wine shops; BC $10.99 specialty listing

Big cherry jam, chocolate, sweaty saddle, licorice, spicy tobacco nose. Warm, round, fat, supple style with some light, chewy tannin. Smoky, tobacco, cherry jam, cooked cassis, spicy flavours. Good texture and flavours with a solid fruity finish that is a bit chunky. Great value, try with goat, lamb or beef ribs. Great value from Puglia.

 

87 Viu Manent Malbec 2005

Valle del Colchagua, Valle del Rapel, Region del Valle Central, Chile

BC $12.86 specialty listing

Viu Manent has a reputation for its fat almost sweet-tasting malbec brimming with licorice, black fruit and tobacco. Smooth and spicy with alcohol and acidity to spare it needs a piece of meat to tame its youthful figure. Hard to beat all that flavour and oomph for the money.

 

86 Alcance Merlot 2004

Valle del Maule, Region del Valle Central, Chile

AB $24.95 fine wine boutiques; US $14.99 retail

Sappy cassis, cherry, herbal, spicy, chocolate, vanilla nose with some menthol. Dry, round, slightly tight palate with grainy tannins. Warm with peppery, tobacco leaf/menthol, cherry, coffee, vanilla flavours. The finish is tight, somewhat tannic with a bit of acidity showing. Needs time (2-3 years) in bottle to soften.

 

86 Alcance Carmenère 2004

Valle del Maule, Region del Valle Central, Chile

AB $24.95 fine wine boutiques; US $14.99 retail

Spicy, smoky, cherry, vanilla, floral, tobacco leaf aromas. Rich, round, dry and supple with light grainy tannins. Cherry, menthol, leafy, spicy, coriander flavours with a warm, somewhat acidic finish. Needs a bit more balance and less acidity.

 

86 Casillero del Diablo Cabernet Sauvignon 2005

Region del Valle Central, Chile

AB $11.95; BC $13.95 general listing; MB $10.95; NB $12.40; NF $11.64; NS $12.95; ON $11.85; PE $14.90; QC $13.15; SK $13.10

Peppery, leafy, cassis, smoky leather, coffee grind nose. Dry, round, fresh palate with light tannins. Coffee, cedar, mint, cassis, clove flavours. Solid value.

 

86 Chateau de Courteillac 2005 Merlot - Cabernet Franc - Cabernet Sauvignon

Entre-Deux-Mers, Bordeaux, France

BC $11.95 specialty listing

Very spicy, smoky, black cherry, plum nose with a touch of resin and coffee. Soft, round, dry palate with very light tannins. Cherry, plum, cedar, tobacco, spicy resin flavours. Simple, ripe and ready for dinner - finally, an introductory Bordeaux-style wine that delivers for the money

 

86 Cono Sur Pinot Noir 2006

Valle del Rapel, Region del Valle Central, Chile

BC $9.89 general listing

This wine sells so fast it's being rushed to the market each year which isn't necessarily a good thing. The '06 sports a typical spicy, licorice root and black cherry nose with a touch of resin and earth. Fairly tart on the mid-palate in essence calling for that duck confit or roasted chicken. Still solid and the price is a dream.

 

86 Du Peloux Terres du Rhone Côtes du Rhône 2004 Syrah - Grenache - Carignan

Côtes du Rhône, Rhone Valley, France

BC $14.99 specialty listing

Floral, peppery, black licorice, meaty, smoky, resin and thyme aromas. Ripe, round, slightly fat entry with smoky, peppery, gamey, rootsy, resin, black cherry and orange flavours. Dry, slightly tannic finish. Try now with grilled lamb or pork. Solid meat and pizza wine.

 

86 Laurent Charles Brotte Côtes du Rhone Les Brottiers 2003

Côtes du Rhône, Rhone Valley, France

BC $13.87 specialty listing

Smoky, meaty, gamey, black cherry, black raspberry, garrigue, floral nose with a big whiff of barnyard and prunes. Soft, round, ripe and warm with spicy, tobacco, chocolate, prune, dried cherry, rootsy, peppery flavours. Warm, slightly tart finish, try with lamb stew. Ready to go now.

 

86 Los Cardos Malbec 2005

Ugarteche District, Luján de Cuyo, Northern Region, Mendoza, Argentina2

AB $12.95 private wine shops; BC $13.85 specialty listing

Very peppery, smoky leather, tobacco, clove, dark chocolate nose. Dry, round, supple style with spicy, clove, peppery, cherry, tobacco, roasted mushroom flavours with a savoury note. Good easy style for food.

 

86 Lindemans Bin 50 Shiraz 2005

South Eastern Australia, Australia

AB $11.95 private wine shops; BC $12.99 Specialty; MB $11.99; NB $12.99; NF $13.48; NS $13.49; ON $11.95; PEI $14.98; SK $13.48

Spicy, blackberry, black cherry aromas with some licorice. Warm, round, soft and ripe with licorice, blackberry, plum and pudding flavours. Fresh, easy style with good fruit and a touch of sweetness.

 

86 Valdivieso Cabernet Sauvignon 2004

Region del Valle Central, Chile

BC $12.95 specialty listing

Spicy, tea leaf, chocolate, peppery, cassis, leather aromas. Round, dry, slightly chunky palate with cassis, spicy, peppery, cherry, mineral, minty flavours. Warm, elegant style, ready to go. Solid value.

 

86 Yellow Tail Cabernet - Merlot 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon - Merlot

South Eastern Australia, Australia

BC $12.95 specialty listing

Open spicy, menthol/mineral nose with chocolate tobacco, earthy, gamey vanilla notes flecked with garrigue and blueberry. Floral raspberry/cassis cough syrup fruit flavours with an oaky warm peppery finish. Soft round, ripe and easy to sip all add up to the Yellowtail style. Consistent style and value.

Written By: ag
Anthony Gismondi
Anthony Gismondi

Anthony Gismondi is a Canadian wine journalist and one of North America's most influential voices in wine. For over 30 years, he has been the wine columnist for The Vancouver Sun. The twice-weekly column is distributed across Canada through the Postmedia Network to millions of readers. In addition, Anthony hosts the BC Food & Wine Radio Show, broadcast in 25 markets across B.C. and available as a podcast on major platforms. He launched Gismondionwine.com in 1997, attracting one million monthly users from 114 countries. It continues to be a valuable resource full of tasting notes, intelligent wine stories and videos for the trade and consumers. Conversations with wine personalities are available on his  YouTube Channel.