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Anthony Gismondi on Wine

Top Ten BC Wine Plus Ties 92 Mission Hill Oculus 2008 Merlot - Cabernet Sauvignon - Cabernet Franc - P.VerdotOkanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaBC $70.00 winery direct, AB $70.00 private wine stores, ON $70.00 Vintages, consignment mark AnthonyOculus like Osoyoos Larose continues down the path of refinement.

Top Ten BC Wine Plus Ties

92 Mission Hill Oculus 2008 Merlot - Cabernet Sauvignon - Cabernet Franc - P.Verdot
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $70.00 winery direct, AB $70.00 private wine stores, ON $70.00 Vintages, consignment mark Anthony
Oculus like Osoyoos Larose continues down the path of refinement. The latest 08 is more expressive on the nose with spicy, coffee, orange peel, black cherry jam aromas mixed with liquorice, cedar, sage, vanilla and cranberry and leather. Dry, full, rich, somewhat tannic palate but juicy. Orange peel, chocolate, coffee, peppery, savoury, minty, meaty, cranberry, blackberry, saddle leather, tobacco, olive flavours. Lots of intensity and concentration but still with some youthful, small-grained tannin to dissipate. It needs five to seven years to round out but it should repay that cellaring time generously. (AG-ST)

92 Mission Hill Oculus 2009 Merlot - Cabernet Sauvignon - Cabernet Franc - P.Verdot
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $70.00 winery direct, AB $70.00 private wine stores, ON $70.00 Vintages, consignment mark Anthony
Oculus is the pinnacle red at Mission Hill fashioned after the great red blends of Bordeaux and made with select grapes from designated blocks in Osoyoos and Oliver. No wine in the region is handled more gently before it is aged 14.5 months in French barriques. The nose is a fragrant mix of dark plummy fruit spiced with coffee, orange peel, liquorice and black sage aromas. The mix is now 50 percent merlot with 30/15/5 bits of cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and petit verdot all of which lends the wine an attractive soft, elegant demeanour and slippery fine grained tannins. You can drink it now if you must but five to seven years will repay your patience handsomely. (AG-ST)

92 Summerhill Pyramid Winery Cipes Ariel Premier Cuvée 1998 Pinot Noir - Chardonnay - Pinot Meunier
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $85.00 winery direct
Summerhill has had its ups and downs over the years but lately there are more ups than down and the new ups are higher. Case in point is the stunningly fine Cipes Ariel bubble. Mysteriously lost in the depths of the cellar the 1998 has emerged as one of the finest sparkling wines ever made in British Columbia. The fruit is estate grown at Summerhill's Kelowna vineyard and is now a delicious, old, 59/40/1 blend of pinot noir, chardonnay and pinot meunier. Expect a rich, powerful yet delicate nose of complex aromas including citrus, brioche, apricot skin and hazelnuts. The texture is equally impressive and creamy with a fine lees character that adds to its complexity. The flavours are more gout Anglais than fresh but it remains in fine shape with bright lemon, toasted ginger and bits of red apple fruit. Very food-friendly and ready to drink. (AG)

91 CedarCreek Platinum Chardonnay 2010
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $30.00 winery direct, VQA wine shops
CedarCreek best is labelled 'Platinum'. In this case Block Five clone 76 is the ingredient and it's all hand harvested and whole berry pressed before it is barrel fermented and aged for 10 months in a mix of older French coopered oak puncheons. Winemaker Darryl Brooker is playing with wild ferments and 25 percent of this juice was fermented with wild vineyard yeast selected and started in the vineyard. The result is a stunning departure from the ordinary. Look for lean tropical fruit aromas with an intense acidity (mineral) grapefruit flavour with a nutty spicy finish. An exciting edition to the local chardonnay scene and it really just beginning to get its feet under it. Dungeness crab anyone? (AG-ST)

91 Laughing Stock Vineyards Syrah+7/10 2010 Syrah - Viognier
Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $34.00 winery direct
The fruit is grown in Osoyoos and the wine is made by co-fermenting a small amount of viognier with the syrah in large casks and tanks. The viognier adds some floral mineral notes and tends to open up the syrah allowing it to fully express its potential in the bottle. Look for a rich, smooth, fresh palate with blackberry jam, menthol, ginger, pepper, sausage meat, vanilla, coffee, clove, curry flavours. The style is big and bold and will need a piece of lamb or two to five more years in bottle. (AG-ST)

91 Mission Hill Perpetua Chardonnay Osoyoos Vineyard Estate 2010
Osoyoos, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $40.00 specialty listing, AB $40.00 private wine stores, ON $35.00 consignment - Mark Anthony Brands, QC $40.00, SK $40.00
Perpetua opens with an appealing honey and oats nose flecked with red apple, light lees and spice. The attack is creamy and smooth with some primary apple notes mixed with spice and caramel/baked apple. The finish is long, persistent and warm. Three clones make up the mix of fruit in Perpetua a single vineyard, one hundred percent chardonnay farmed on the Osoyoos Lake Bench. Delicate and creamy the 2011 is showing early promise with better concentration and length. About a quarter is barrel fermented in new French oak for 10 months and stirred by hand every two weeks. Halibut is a fine match. (AG-ST)

91 Mission Hill Compendium 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon - Merlot - Cabernet Franc - Petit Verdot
Osoyoos, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $107.00 (1500 ml), BC $50.00 winery direct, MB $45.00 private wine stores, SK $45.00
The latest Compendium blend is 40/35/20/5 mix of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc and petit verdot. The grapes come off specific blocks in Oliver and Osoyoos and end up in 100 percent French oak for 14 months. Nose is remarkably floral with a strong sense of minerality and a hint of seashore. The attack is sleek and sophisticated. The tannins are small firm and chalky; the flavor profile is very Bordelais with tobacco, black olive savoury notes throughout. An impressive young red wine. (AG-ST)

91 Tinhorn Creek Vineyards Kerner Icewine 2011
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $30.00 (200 ml) VQA wine shops
Ripe pear, honey, orange peel, baked apple, butter and nalgene aromas. Ripe, rich, full, juicy, elegant palate with pear, honey, baked citrus, butter, spicy, floral, flavours. Good acidity and balance and a fine improvement from last few vintages. (AG-ST)

90 Black Hills Alibi 2011 Sauvignon Blanc - Sémillon
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $25.00 winery direct and private wine shops
Open clean fresh nose with pink grapefruit, citrus and floral aromas. Crisp and inviting. The attack is juicy, cool and elegant with sweet, smoky herbal notes. Look for more pink grapefruit, lemon thyme, mineral and ginger flavours with a trace of chalk underneath. Steamed buttered clams with a squeeze of Alibi in the pot works for me. (AG-ST)

90 CedarCreek Platinum Viognier 2011
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $25.00 specialty listing
The goal here is a rich style and the fruit comes off a warm site in Osoyoos. It was fermented for 47 days in stainless steel for fruit, a third in older barrels for texture and a third in concrete eggs which both retained the fruit and added texture. This is a gorgeous rendition of the variety and possibly the best I have tasted in Canada. I love the freshness and the minerality and the rich dollop of apricot/orange fruit throughout. Both fresh and exotic, it is home run. Most anything Asian would be an excellent match or turkey. (AG-ST)

90 CedarCreek Platinum Meritage 2009 Merlot - Cabernet Sauvignon - Cabernet Franc - P.Verdot - Malbec
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $40.00 winery direct, VQA wine shops
The '09 Meritage is a 46/41/13/mix of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and malbec all of which is essentially the best fruit aged in French oak for 20 months. The fruit is ripe and sweet on the attack with bits of coffee, tea, oak and spice throughout. Still very young but with plenty of potential to expand its persona over the next five years. If you decide to drink it now choose a grilled piece of meat to temper the fruit and tannins. (AG-ST)

90 CedarCreek Riesling 2011
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $18.00 winery direct, VQA wine shops
Winemaker Darryl Brooker continues his quest to lower the alcohol at CedarCreek, especially among the aromatic varieties such as this delicious, electric, riesling at 10.5 percent alcohol. The fruit is a blend of two sites: the home block in Kelowna and Greata Ranch across the lake. The nose is expressive and fresh with tightly wound citrus and lime scented fruit that is the theme on the nose and palate. Light juicy fun yet serious it will pair with variety of West Coast foods. Delicious. (AG-ST)

90 Joie A Noble Blend 2011 Riesling - Gewurztraminer - Pinot Blanc - Pinot Auxerrois - Schoenberger
Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $24.00 winery direct, private wine shops, ON $34.00
This wine has scored well over the years but we were always looking for that something extra: more pure fruit, and less of those rind-y bitter notes in the finish so prevalent in many aromatic Okanagan blends. The '11 NB puts riesling to the head of the blend at 38 percent the rest of the mix is 33/14/11/4 gewürztraminer/pinot blanc/pinot auxerrois/schönburger; the result is magic. So pure and fresh and focused with intense tangerine, guava and fruit aromas and flavours. This is a delicious bottle of wine. (AG-ST)

90 Joie Riesling iv 2011
Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $23.00 restaurants, private wine shops
Clearly the best Joie riesling we have had since the beginning. Older vines, better sites, better wine making take you pick but this is the stuff that turns heads. Love the intensity of pure fruit flavours especially the exotic peachy orange notes. There is a sense of blance here and no bitter notes in the juicy fresh finish. Practically unlimited in its ability to pair with food. Well done. (AG-ST)

90 Mission Hill Compendium 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon - Merlot - Cabernet Franc - Petit Verdot
Osoyoos, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $50.00 winery direct, MB $45.00 private wine stores
Compendium is a 43/28/26/3/ blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc and petit verdot fermented in large French oak vats for 15 months. The nose is an enticing mix of black cherry, cassis, meaty, peppery, spicy, and savoury notes flecked with saddle leather, chocolate, coffee and tobacco notes. The attack is refined, the fruit juicy and plump and full of fine-grained tannins, smoke, vanilla, chocolate, cedar, tobacco, black olive, peppery, blackberry flavours. Still youthful, this will improve over the next few years and tame the oak and tannins on the finish. Well done. (AG-ST)

90 Mission Hill Quatrain 2009 Merlot - Syrah - Cabernet Franc - Cabernet Sauvignon
Osoyoos, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $50.00 winery direct or private wine stores, AB $45.00 private wine stores, MB $50.00, ON $47.00 consignment - Mark Anthony
The 09 Quatrain is a 30/30/20/20/ blend of merlot, syrah, cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc fermented in large French oak vats. Expect a fragrant nose cherry with sweet liquorice and spicy warm mocha, meaty notes. All the fruit comes off the best blocks farmed in the south Okanagan and spends 15 months in French oak. The finish is warm and long with chalky but firm tannins and will need some time to come around in the bottle. (AG-ST)

90 Painted Rock Syrah 2009
Skaha Bench, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $40.00 winery direct, private wine shops
This big spicy, brooding black fruit scented syrah with a dollop of Okanagan sage has really come together in the bottle over the last six months and will likely improve through 2015. Both ripe and rich it exudes a New World syrah stance mixing liquorice, smoky, black tea and roasted meat characters flecked with plums and spicy oak. Tasted several times now and it gets better each time out. You can drink it now with a big piece of grilled lamb or put in the cellar for another five years. (AG-ST)

90 Stoneboat Vineyards Pinot Gris 2011
Oliver, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $19.00 winery direct
The 2011 pinot gris is likely the best yet from Stoneboat; likely due to older vines, more experience at making wine, and the rocks. So fresh and bright on the nose it has an electric citrus/mineral demeanour that spreads across the palate from front to back. We just love the dry, stony, nectarine flavours and the creamy textures. A fabulous argument for a Lower Black Sage Bench sub-Appellation. Stupid value here and the perfect match fresh halibut. (AG-ST)

90 Tantalus Riesling 2011
East Kelowna, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $23.00 winery direct, VQA and private wine shops, AB $23.00 private wine stores, SK $23.00
Typically at the extreme end of freshness and acidity. Pure, electric mineral floral citrus green apple fruit without any overpowering sulphur yeah. The attack is textbook crisp and clean with vibrant delicious flavours that combine lemon, honey, lime and green apple and tangerine notes. A juicy mouth-watering style made for food. Super effort. Hard to believe it has 19g/l residual sugar. (AG-ST)

90 Terravista Fandango Albariño Verdejo 2011 Albariño - Chardonnay
Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $25.00 winery direct
Senka and Bob Tennant (formerly Black Hills) are back in business; this time on Naramata Bench. Terravista Fandago is an albariño/verdejo blend and one of only two wines made at the property. The blend is a first for me in Canada and I love the entire idea of this wine. Its über fresh and electric, perhaps to tart for some palates but serve this with a charcuterie plate and it's magic. Look for intense, citrus scents and flavours washed in minerality. Super refreshing (AG-ST)

90 Terravista Figaro Roussanne Viognier Marsanne 2010 Roussanne - Viognier - Marsanne
Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $24.00 winery direct
Senka and Bob Tennant (formerly Black Hills) are back in business; this time on Naramata Bench. Terravista Figaro is a blend of roussanne, viognier and marsanne and one of only two wines made at the property. Sanka Tennat has a flare for making refreshing, exciting white wines and Figaro is another example. The nose is an attractive mix of white flowers, pepper and citrus with bits peach and honeysuckle. The midpalate is fresh if a touch watery but we will take the easy-drinking style over the thick and alcoholic. Turkey any one? (AG-ST)

Written By: ag
Anthony Gismondi
Anthony Gismondi

Anthony Gismondi is a Canadian wine journalist and one of North America's most influential voices in wine. For over 30 years, he has been the wine columnist for The Vancouver Sun. The twice-weekly column is distributed across Canada through the Postmedia Network to millions of readers. In addition, Anthony hosts the BC Food & Wine Radio Show, broadcast in 25 markets across B.C. and available as a podcast on major platforms. He launched Gismondionwine.com in 1997, attracting one million monthly users from 114 countries. It continues to be a valuable resource full of tasting notes, intelligent wine stories and videos for the trade and consumers. Conversations with wine personalities are available on his  YouTube Channel.