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Anthony Gismondi on Wine
Saturday, September 22 2012

North to Alaska

By: Anthony Gismondi

Spending a week with 640 of your closest readers can be a terrifying experience for any writer, but with the voyage complete -- including five on-board tastings and five hosted dinners -- I'm delighted to report I met the vast majority of Sun readers who sailed the MS Volendam to Alaska and back.

And as strange as it may sound, I learned as much about wine, at least the way our readers think about it, as they may have learned from me during the numerous on-board tastings.

 

I was reminded daily that I have the best job in the world, as if I needed any such prompt. Yet in some ways, it was a gentle nudge for someone who lives in the rarefied world of fine wine and all its trappings that frankly is miles away from what most of our readers encounter when they open their favourite bottle for dinner and then wonder if they don't finish the bottle can they keep it fresh for another night.

 

I learned that readers are very concerned with how long wine will age, as if they each had an underground wine cellar that could hold 5,000 bottles and its capacity limit was quickly approaching. They were even more curious about aeration as in: Do those Venturi-like devices that you pass the wine through before it hits your wine glass really work?

 

Well, actually they do, but I'm more curious about how it is that seemingly hundreds of people oblivious to the intricacies of wine making or the arcane laws of appellations and place names have such a keen interest in an obscure device that when used can seemingly make wine softer and easier to taste. Clearly wine marketing is alive and well, or maybe wine drinkers do not like the rambunctious, youthful, persona of inexpensive wine that sometimes can be softened by passing the juice through an aeration device. More on those before Christmas (hint to manufacturers; send me your device to test).

 

Temperature was another big question many had, as in what is the correct temperature to store wine. I was happy to suggest 10 to 16 C would be ideal, and that the cooler the cellar the longer it will take for the wine will age. But it was more fun to suggest that they should pay more attention to the temperature of the wines they serve given so many people, both inside and out of the trade, serve white wine too cold and red wine too warm.

 

A pleasant surprise for me was the growing interest in white wines. Could red wines with all its power and alcohol and oak finally be slipping a notch or two on the popularity scale? Possibly, but my overall sense is all manner of wine is important to Vancouver Sun readers and we will continue to serve up the information you need to continue your journey down that road to becoming North America's savviest wine drinkers.

 

This week we look at some of the favourite bottles we sampled on-board that you can buy in Vancouver. Next week we explore how to keep these bottles fresh for more than a day or two.

 


 

Caliterra Tributo Sauvignon Blanc Single Vineyard Block Vignoble Algarrobo 2011, Valle de Leyda, Chile

Price        $18

UPC         00831573000278

Score       89/100

Remarks: Single vineyard Leyda sauvignon could make you think you were in Marlborough for a moment with its pungent, gooseberry/peppery nose. Proximity to the cool Pacific Ocean shapes this wine's cool demeanour while three pickings ten days apart build a complex flavour spectrum of grapefruit, lime rind and stony minerality. There's no oak here but the wine undergoes a period of fine lees stirring to increase its complexity, mouthfeel and aromatic profile so you can expect a super fresh, vibrant style sauvignon. Try this with the classic Alsace-style onion pie, or halibut with a fruit salsa.

 

B-S Rosé Table Wine (Michael Bartier-David Scholefield) 2010, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada


Price        $20 private stores only

UPC         00626990112273

Score       87/100

Remarks: BS Rosé is made from the vineyard up with fully ripened gamay grapes. The style is light and refreshing with bracing acidity and earthy, red fruit flavours. A wonderful food wine it marks a new and exciting level of sophistication for this style of wine in the B.C. You can serve this with a wide range of foods including chicken, goat cheese, mussels and much more.

 

La Domeliere Rasteau Côtes du Rhône Villages 2010, Rhone Valley, France


Price        $20

UPC         664605313080

Score       90/100

Remarks: It's unthinkable that the 2010 could be as good as the 2009 but it may be even better. The mix is a blend of 70/20/10 grenache, syrah and mourvèdre and it grabs your attention from the nose to the finish. The nose is a mix of ripe, red and dark fruit flavours with smoky spicy notes. The entry is fragrant with soft slippery black cherry and plum fruit with bits of kirsch, licorice root and some savoury, meaty notes. This is a barbecue star you should buy by the case. Try it with assorted grilled meats or cellar and drink through 2015.

 

Gosset Grand Reserve Brut N/V, Champagne, France


Price        $75

UPC         3353210012217

Score       90/100

Remarks: This is a very attractive sparkler with pear, baked apple, creamy, nutty, toasty cherry aromas. The style is elegant, the textures soft but with fine acidity. You will love the toasty, nutty, creamy, baked apple and pear flavours. It is bit fatter and toastier than a vintage style but on the dry side. It also an added complexity due to a small percent of barrel aged reserve wine. A blend of chardonnay (46%), pinot noir and pinot meunier (54%) including 12% of reserve wines (average 2 years old). A great birthday wine.

 

Liberty School Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, Paso Robles, San Luis Obispo County, California, United States


Price        $22

UPC         657891700207

Score       87/100

Remarks: Typically warm and earthy on the nose with black olive, tobacco/cedar, and smoky cassis aromas. The attack is fresh if slightly sweet with a touch of acidity showing but all with very soft tannins. Cassis, coffee, cedar bark, tobacco, olive, smoky herb and resin mark the flavours. A forward, easy-drinking mid-week cabernet for grilled meat entrees

 

Dow's Late Bottled Vintage Port 2006, Douro Valley, Portugal


Price        $26

UPC         05010867200159

Score       90/100

Remarks: Open spicy, minty, black tea nose with bits of prune, blackberry, chocolate and nut aromas. The attack is rich and full with round, sweet, juicy fruit and light tannins. Big black liquorice, orange peel, dried fig, dried cherry, peppery, walnut, smoky, tobacco flavours. Excellent intensity for LBV. 

 

Written By: ag
Anthony Gismondi
Anthony Gismondi

Anthony Gismondi is a Canadian wine journalist and one of North America's most influential voices in wine. For over 30 years, he has been the wine columnist for The Vancouver Sun. The twice-weekly column is distributed across Canada through the Postmedia Network to millions of readers. In addition, Anthony hosts the BC Food & Wine Radio Show, broadcast in 25 markets across B.C. and available as a podcast on major platforms. He launched Gismondionwine.com in 1997, attracting one million monthly users from 114 countries. It continues to be a valuable resource full of tasting notes, intelligent wine stories and videos for the trade and consumers. Conversations with wine personalities are available on his  YouTube Channel.