quicksearch
Anthony Gismondi on Wine

There's only a few days left to check out the current New Releases program in B.C.

Liquor Stores before the next round begins. Normally we get to these earlier in the cycle, but this is the first chance we've had to slide them into the column.

As I have said many times before, "new releases" are vital to the health of any retail mix and wine is no exception. I'm not sure five selections make much of a difference, but we will take what we can.

Personally, I believe we could afford to drop the bottom five per cent of under-performing labels in this market every six months and no one would miss them. The space that would create could be used to revitalize some of the sadder-looking categories like California, Washington, Portugal, Germany, and South Africa.

I know it's sacrilegious to utter, but even the B.C. (VQA) line-up is looking pretty tattered. Once you remove Mission Hill and Gehringer, that thankfully field nearly full line-ups, and throw a few entry level listings from Gray Monk, Sumac Ridge, Jackson Triggs, Quail's Gate, CedarCreek and Peller, pickings are slim. New B.C. winery listings are practically non-existent.

Change is good and it doesn't go unnoticed in the wine world. I'm sure if there is little or no hope of getting your product on the shelf in B.C., due to space limitations, it wouldn't be long before you moved on to other markets. The danger for us is once we begin to lose the interest of the movers and the shakers in the wine business it's difficult to maintain a vibrant, stimulating retail wine environment.

If dropping five per cent of listings every six months, and replacing them with new labels isn't doable (although I'm told it could be easily accomplished), perhaps we could pay more attention to new vintages or new arrivals.

Colour coding new arrival price tags and inserting correct vintages wherever they appear would at least make us feel as if there is something new to buy.

Today we begin with Southern Most Red 2006, an Argentine blend from Bodega Del Fin de Mundo. The "end of the earth" winery employs global wine consultant Michel Rolland and he's paying early dividends. This entry level mix is merlot, malbec, and cabernet sauvignon. It has the requisite smoky savoury notes on the nose and the earthy, peppery, fruity mid-palate with just enough acidity to keep it interesting. It is a serous contender for the barbecue red of the summer. The price is incredibly sensible for a simple red that over delivers and is so natural, it is all but certified organic. Hamburgers, grilled beef, casseroles and stews will all fit the bill.

Abruzzo, Italy, is the home of Talamonti Moda Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2003. I was hoping for a bit more richness in such a warm year, but the Moda remains a bit tight and dry on entry with simple earthy/grapey, fruit flavours. More of a simple, tumbler-style red for rustic mid-week meals. Best at a place like Salt in Gastown, where the rich cured meats will tame the acidity and dryness.

Over to Spain for Bodegas Enguera Dis Tinto 2005, a 50/50 mix of tempranillo and syrah grown in a Mediterranean climate and produced without using any wood. This is a pretty, red wine with plenty of cherry and blackcurrant notes on the nose mixed with an earthy, coffee black-fruit finish and just enough dryness to keep it interesting. Soft and very easy-sipping. Another fine edition to the '07 mid-week, barbecue red category.

Raw blueberry fruit aromas jump from the glass of the Parducci Petite Sirah 2005 from California. It's a bit tart and disjointed on the palate with peppery, minty flavours and some gripp-y tannins in the backend. It will need time to settle down, although it lacks the plush chocolate flavours that can be typical of this variety. Serve now with flank steak or hamburgers for best results.

Ex-Rosemount winemaker Phillip Shaw is the man behind Rolling Shiraz 2004, named for the Australian vineyard's "dips and peaks between both Orange and the Central Ranges regions, mirroring the equilibrium of flavours in the wines." This is soft round, sweet, juicy shiraz with some cedar bark and acidity poking through at the end. No surprises, no disappointments. Ready-to-drink.

There only five new listings in the current release so I've added a new vintage release of Fleur du Cap Chardonnay 2005, from coastal South Africa. A perennial bargain, the 2005 is at a perfect spot in its life right now. The nose is attractive showing nutty, toasted notes and citrus fruit that carry through on the palate. The fresh melon, nutty flavours, with flecks of butterscotch, finish clean and vibrant. Fine intensity. Great value.


SOUTHERN MOST RED 2006, PATAGONIA, MENDOZA, ARGENTINA
Price: $13.03
UPC: 00874003008024
Score: 90/100
Remarks: A terrific buy, stock up.

TALAMONTI MODA MONTEPULCIANO D'ABRUZZO 2003, ABRUZZO, ITALY
Price: $14.99
UPC: 181856000335
Score: 86/100
Remarks: A tumbler style red for rustic, mid-week meals.

BODEGAS ENGUERA DIS TINTO 2005, VALENCIA AND MURCIA, SPAIN
Price: $16.99
UPC: 08437004217196
Score: 88/100
Remarks: A fine edition to the barbecue red category.

PARDUCCI PETITE SIRAH 2005, CALIFORNIA, UNITED STATES
Price: $17.95
UPC: 0086828000231
Score: 86/100
Remarks: Hamburger red.

ROLLING SHIRAZ 2004, CENTRAL RANGES, NEW SOUTH WALES, AUSTRALIA
Price: $17.99
UPC: 9334463000125
Score: 87/100
Remarks: Soft sweet juicy shiraz.

FLEUR DU CAP CHARDONNAY 2005, COASTAL REGION, SOUTH AFRICA
Price: $11.99
UPC: 06001496301200
Score: 87/100
Remarks: Fresh, nutty, melon flavours flecked with butterscotch. Well done. Great value.

Written By: ag
Anthony Gismondi
Anthony Gismondi

Anthony Gismondi is a Canadian wine journalist and one of North America's most influential voices in wine. For over 30 years, he has been the wine columnist for The Vancouver Sun. The twice-weekly column is distributed across Canada through the Postmedia Network to millions of readers. In addition, Anthony hosts the BC Food & Wine Radio Show, broadcast in 25 markets across B.C. and available as a podcast on major platforms. He launched Gismondionwine.com in 1997, attracting one million monthly users from 114 countries. It continues to be a valuable resource full of tasting notes, intelligent wine stories and videos for the trade and consumers. Conversations with wine personalities are available on his  YouTube Channel.