NEW ZEALAND WHITES

More than a decade after their arrival on the world wine stage, Kiwi producers have a meagre 57 listings in B.C. liquor stores, and it's doubtful that any more than a third of them could be found in any single government store. It's difficult to figure out why. A series of short crops, a corresponding lack of supply and brisk international demand have put most New Zealand wines on allocation around the world. Given that scenario, it's difficult to imagine that any exciting new Kiwi producers will soon be selling to the buyers for Canada's monopolies, who prefer to test, taste and approve what comes to them, rather than beat a path to a region to order direct. From the consumer's point of view, there is the question of price. Kiwi wine has never been seen as inexpensive, especially when compared to its competitors from Australia and Chile. But a favourable exchange rate (one of the few for the feeble Canadian dollar) is beginning to help. Even more attractive is the current quality. Representatives of 22 producers were in Vancouver this week to pour their best at the New Zealand Wine Fair, but if you couldn't make Thursday's event, head to your government store or private wine shop and look for any of this week's picks. Each of them is big on flavour. A perennial favourite is the Forrest Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough. The 2001 has less of those jump-out-of-the-glass aromas, showing slightly subdued passion fruit, mineral lees and chalky aromas. The style is drier and leaner, with more herbal hints and quite a bit of minerality in the finish. Think oysters and a sunny patio or deck. A good example of the exchange rate working in B.C.'s favour is the Matua Valley Sauvignon Blanc. The price is down at least $3 since it first entered this market. The greater warmth of the Hawkes Bay region is evident in the enticing passion fruit and melon nose, with green apple, grapefruit and kiwi flavours. This is a solid effort and good value, too. Another winning sauvignon is the Saint Clair 2001 from Marlborough. Expect pungent canned jalapeño, gooseberry, grapefruit and citrus rind aromas, and rich flavours brimming with gooseberry and grapefruit. This is classic, showy Marlborough sauvignon that is well balanced and a bargain. Bring on the halibut cheeks. New Zealand chardonnays are similar in style to the sauvignons, with plenty of zip and freshness. The Stoneleigh 2000 Chardonnay, also from Marlborough, opens with an impressive green-apple, smoky-lees and vanilla nose, with hints of passion fruit in the background. On the palate, it's balanced and showing ripe baked-apple flavours with just a scent of nectarine and vanilla. My guess is most consumers will enjoy its style and price. The Villa Maria Private Bin Chardonnay is grown in the warmer climes of Gisborne, where the fruit can fully ripen. Look for sweet melon fruit and creamy lees streaked with lime rind. The style is rich and round, and takes flavour intensity up a level. The finish is big and buttery, with less fruit, more oak and alcohol, and cool lime-rind and mineral undertones. Perhaps the biggest story of the tasting is the Kim Crawford Dry Riesling, which at $24 is sealed with a screwcap, not a cork. Freed from the maladies faulty corks can cause, it offers one of the cleanest, purest, freshest expressions of riesling that I've inhaled in years. Look for intense apricot, green apple/nectarine and mineral aromas that jump out of the glass. It's just as intense on the palate, with a heap of apricot and nectarine fruit. The finish is perfectly dry without any overbearing acidity. Halibut and mango salsa would be a heavenly match. Producer: Forrest 2001 Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough Price: $21.95 Stock No.: 503193 Score: 15.5/20 Comments: Sophisticated, stylish. Producer: Matua Valley 2001 Sauvignon Blanc Hawkes Bay Price: $15.95 Stock No.: 309575 Score: 14.5/20 Comments: Passion fruit and green apples. Producer: Saint Clair 2001 Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough Price: $17.95 Stock No.: 554196 Score: 16/20 Comments: Fabulous fruit and lift. Producer: Stoneleigh 2000 Chardonnay, Marlborough Price: $15.45 Stock No.: 288795 Score: 15/20 Comments: Ripe baked apple and vanilla. Producer: Villa Maria Private Bin 2000 Chardonnay Gisborne Price: $16.95 Stock No.: 549972 Score: 15.5/20 Comments: Ripe melon and lime rind. Producer: Kim Crawford 2001 Dry Riesling Marlborough Price: $23.95 Stock No.: 559567 Score: 18/20 Comments: Wow -- fresh, clean, sensational, and it's a screwcap.