The last time I checked, Canadians were drinking French champagne at the rate of about three million bottles annually or roughly one bottle a year between 10 of us.
It's a pathetic number when you consider the 59.1 million citizens of the United Kingdom find the time and money to drink some 32.5 million bottles of imported French bubble or just over one half-bottle per person.
Speculation is that the Queen's golden jubilee sparked the recent increase in U.K. sales but it's far more likely rising consumption is due to aggressive marketing and discounting by British supermarkets where "own-brand" or supermarket labels can be had for as little as £12 or $30 Cdn.
At the prestige end of the market, rap stars have been seen brandishing bottles of icon champagnes, such as Louis Roederer Cristal, making expensive bubbly particularly popular with young people.
Here in B.C., where the government decides which sparkling wines you get to drink and at what price, consumers can only dream about the kind of sales promotions held in U.K. supermarkets. Supermarkets routinely offer their customers -- three bottles of champagne for the price of two and discounts on any purchase of six bottles.
Imagine getting a deal like that from your local liquor store. Well, we can dream I guess and what better way than with a bottle of champagne or sparkling wine. Today picks are dominated by champagne but they include a couple of sparkling wines that offer big value for money.
We begin with pure fun: Champagne Pop Extra Dry. In a quarter-bottle format complete with blue glass, POP is authentic non-vintage bubble that's ready to drink when you are. You can drink it through a straw or straight from the bottle -- like they do in the clubs. It has a persistent, fine mousse and an inviting creamy, baked apple, yeasty nose. It is soft and round and definitely sweet or off-dry but it's balanced with toasty, mineral, citrus, baked pear flavours and an apple skin finish.
From Spain perhaps the best Cava bargain in the country is the Codorníu Cuvée Raventos Brut. Spicy baked apple and toasted nut mark the nose of this chardonnay-based sparkler. The bubbles are tiny and much smoother than most bubbles at this price. Look for an elegant, nutty, toasted floral character and a wine that is wound up tighter than its non-chardonnay competitors. This has Cava written all over it. Great value and sure to be a hit at most any dinner party.
Gloria Ferrer Sonoma Brut is a workhorse sparkler made from more than 40 separate selections of pinot noir and chardonnay grown at the 340-acre estate just north and west of San Pablo Bay. It's a sophisticated 87/13 blend of pinot noir and chardonnay made from 20 different base wines each fermented in stainless steel. Expect crisp, tangy, pear fruit flavours with just a hint of almonds in the background. There's none of the austerity that can plague so many Old World sparklers and there's none of the sweet fruit flavours that are the bane of New World bubble. It doesn't get much better than this for the price -- delicious stylish and fun to drink.
Lanson Black Label Brut, blends 50 per cent pinot noir with 35 per cent chardonnay and 15 per cent pinot meunier. The inviting nose is a mix of biscuit-y, baked apple aromas and fresh citrus notes. Similar toasted, nutty, citrus fruit and green apple flavours is flecked with mineral highlights. An elegant, easy-sipping champagne that offers fabulous value to consumers. Good value for champagne.
Pol Roger White Foil Cuvée de Reserve is an ethereal-like bubble with a floral, citrus and mineral nose. This baby slides down with balance and style and very fine effervescence. The taste is a mix of baked apple with citrus, creamy, mineral, quince flavours and a crisp, biscuit-y, apple finish. An excellent, non-vintage sparkler made for current consumption for beginners or connoisseurs.
The people at Ponsardin describe Veuve Clicquot Vintage Reserve 1996 as the most mature fruit ever harvested with correspondingly high acid. When you put the two together you get one excellent vintage. The '96 blend or cépage is dominated 59 per cent pinot noir fruit which gives the wine its structure and power. Expect a robust, full-bodied rich palate with plenty of citrus and stone fruit on the mid-palate and a nutty finish. One of the best young Champagnes I have tasted. It has superb styling and it's built for the long haul. Drink or hold for 15 to 20 years.
Weekend Wine Tasting: Wines for Home Entertaining
Champagne Pop Extra Dry N/V, Champagne, France
$14.45 (200mL)
694190006159
14.5/20
Mineral, citrus, baked pear flavours. Nothing but fun.
Codorníu Cuvée Raventos Brut N/V, Sant Sadurní d'Anoia, Spain
$18.99
8410013990571
16/20
Spicy baked apple and nutty, toasted flavours.
Gloria Ferrer Sonoma Brut N/V, Sonoma County, Calif.
$29.99
33293111009
16/20
California cava with tangy, pear fruit flavours with a hint of almonds.
Lanson Black Label Brut N/V, Champagne
$42.99
626990004837
17/20
Nutty, citrus fruit and green apple flavours.
Pol Roger White Foil Cuvée de Reserve Brut N/V, Champagne
$49.95; $27.99 (375 ml)
897441424508
16.5/20
Creamy, mineral, quince flavours with a biscuit-y, apple finish.
Veuve Clicquot Vintage Reserve 1996, Champagne
$65.95
3049610299104
19.5/20
Superb styling and built for the long haul.
