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Anthony Gismondi on Wine

B.C.

liquor stores are in the midst of another "new product release" in a number of stores around the province through Feb. 27.

The theme appears to be not-too-expensive, which fits the broadest definition of wine buyers, but here's a tip: We are becoming bored. The wine world is full of excitement, but for some reason what was once the most exciting wine market in Canada is becoming Dullsville.

Consolidation, and the runaway success of the Australian wine brand Yellow Tail, appears to be turning our once vital, innovative, early adopter agents and distributors into a trembling mass of lemmings. What ever happened to adventure and new wines, new grapes, new vineyards, better winemaking?

It once was that we would say, "Where are all the new wines?" Now I long for some of those old labels, and by old, I mean a family-owned wineries making wine from vineyards they own.

I'm not against big blends, and I'm certainly not suggesting that Yellow Tail is responsible for the unprecedented avalanche of cheap and not so cheerful brands, but what is the deal with all the copycats?

Companies who crave Yellow Tail's success would do well to start thinking innovatively as the Casella family did in the late 1990s. Yellow Tail did not copy anyone; the Casellas mapped out a plan for a new wine that would fit the then-needs of market, and they stuck to it in the face of laughter and ridicule.

Nevertheless, those days are over and while Yellow Tail has carved its niche in the market, it's what is next that counts. Unless we start paying attention, and soon, what was once one of the continent's savviest wine market will quickly resemble the vanilla dreck that plagues the majority of monopoly stores in Ontario and Quebec.

I'm not saying today's release is dreck. Each delivers value for money, and some deliver a story. I will let you decide what they add to their respective category mix. Look for displays in key wine stores around the province.

If Ted the Mule White 2004 sounds like a strange name for a French wine, it's probably because a large British, American or Canadian distributor thinks you couldn't handle the fact that it is a viognier/grenache blanc from the Cotes du Rhone. I believe you could and you may also appreciate its honey, mineral, spicy, ginger aromas. It is round, soft and dry on entry with strong chalky, mineral, lemon oil, floral, spicy flavours. It's a touch flat but worth trying.

The Gos Monastrell 2004 is the new Spain from Jumilla, and this will be another hit. Look for smoky, spicy, peppery, dark chocolate and tobacco aromas with streaks of jasmine, game and black cherry jam. Its ripe, round, supple style will attract many as will the black cherry, peppery, licorice, minty tobacco flavours. Warm and dry with some acidity showing through it represents fine value.

Any Argentine wine that originates in Ugarteche, a sub region of Lujan de Cuyo, itself a sub-region of Mendoza, is worth trying. In the case of Los Cardos Malbec 2004, just make sure you give it some air time before you jump into its smoky, mineral, roasted game and peppery, black cherry aromas and flavours. Soft fruity and warm with a touch of animal undercurrent this is adventure. It's great value too.


NEW RELEASES

TED THE MULE WHITE 2004, COTES DU RHONE, FRANCE
Price: $14.99
UPC: 714320132005
Score: 84/100
Remarks: Soft, dry entry with strong chalky, mineral, floral, flavours.

GOS MONASTRELL 2004, JUMILLA, VALENCIA AND MURCIA, SPAIN
Price: $12.95
UPC: 8437005068056
Score: 86/100
Remarks: Smoky, jasmine, black cherry jam. The New Spain.

LOS CARDOS MALBEC 2004, UGARTECHE, LUJAN DE CUYO, MENDOZA, ARGENTINA
Price: $13.95
UPC: 836950000018
Score: 87/100
Remarks: Dry, soft, stewed plum, smoky, peppery, minty flavours.

VIRGIN VINES SHIRAZ 2004, CALIFORNIA
Price: $14.95
UPC: 082896047215
Score: 86/100
Remarks: Sound, ready to go, barbeque red.

BOOLAROO SHIRAZ 2003, AUSTRALIA
Price: $14.95
UPC: 876489000103
Score: 86/100
Remarks: Solid value and good table wine.

TED THE MULE RED 2004, COTES-DU-VENTOUX, RHONE VALLEY, FRANCE
Price: $14.99
UPC: 714320134504
Score: 86/100
Remarks: Dry, tight, Euro-style cherry, earthy, peppery flavours.

Written By: ag
Anthony Gismondi
Anthony Gismondi

Anthony Gismondi is a Canadian wine journalist and one of North America's most influential voices in wine. For over 30 years, he has been the wine columnist for The Vancouver Sun. The twice-weekly column is distributed across Canada through the Postmedia Network to millions of readers. In addition, Anthony hosts the BC Food & Wine Radio Show, broadcast in 25 markets across B.C. and available as a podcast on major platforms. He launched Gismondionwine.com in 1997, attracting one million monthly users from 114 countries. It continues to be a valuable resource full of tasting notes, intelligent wine stories and videos for the trade and consumers. Conversations with wine personalities are available on his  YouTube Channel.