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Anthony Gismondi on Wine
Saturday, September 8 2007

New Releases For Fall

By: Anthony Gismondi

I'm in the Okanagan this week, for a pre-harvest update and, should the weather remain favourable over the next six weeks, local producers are expecting a very fine 2007 harvest.

Constant warmth during the growing season, or "degree days" as they are referred to by growers, have been as good as any year in memory and, without any heat spikes or super-heated days, the vines have been chugging along toward full ripeness at a manageable rate. More on this, and the tour next week when I return.

In the meantime, today we look at more new releases courtesy of the BC Liquor Stores' Featured New Wines program. The current six-pack release can be found at end-of-aisle displays in 33 designated "wine" stores spread across the province. Inventory is hefty for most of today's picks, so finding them shouldn't be a problem.

Prices are moderate by B.C. wine standards and must surely trouble local producers who seemed to be unable to get much quality into the bottle for less than $20. As I alluded to a couple of weeks ago, the nature of import wine is changing quickly.

Just look at the grapes featured in this release: shiraz, grenache, mencia, tempranillo, syrah, carmenère and an unusual everything-but-the-kitchen-sink blend that mixes syrah, merlot, petite sirah, zinfandel and cabernet sauvignon.

No chardonnay, no merlot and no cabernet sauvignon tell you where palates are heading. New and different is the theme, but whether these wines make it in the long run on to store shelves depends on whether you like them. As always the final choice is yours.

First up from France is the Château de Valcombe Shiraz - Grenache 2005 from Costières de Nîmes along the edge of the Rhone Valley appellation. Valcombe is a blend of syrah and grenache with floral mineral, black-fruit notes on the nose. The textures are soft and pliable with red fruits and a meaty, licorice finish. Perfect for fall menus items such as mushrooms and stews.

Chile continues to champion the carmenère grape and the Anakena Carmenère 2006 is a good example of a solid and inexpensive version from Rapel. It has all the classic, minty, cassis and dill notes of carmenère with plenty of earthy, tobacco leafy compost, minty, chocolate flavours on the palate. Smooth and ripe, it should appeal to carmenère lovers. It is certainly good value.

Finally a California wine that seems to be passing on the benefits of a stronger Canadian dollar. The Cycles Gladiator Syrah 2005 is a well-priced Central Coast red sourced from cool Monterey and warm Paso Robles fruit. The combination of plums and white pepper with blueberries and French oak make this a winning combination. Soft, sensuous, ripe and mouth filling, most consumers will love this style. Will easily match a variety of fall game dishes, but it's so soft and supple you could sip it solo if you had to. Great by-the-glass candidate.

The first of two Spanish releases is the Luna Beberide Mencia 2005 from Bierzo. The Luna, made from 100 per cent mencia, is a very consumer-friendly wine -- from its dark red colour to its enticing floral, black-fruit nose. It is extremely soft and supple on entry, with a long, soft, round, black-fruit finish.

Just dry enough to be more interesting than so many other overly-sweet reds in this price range from around the world. A versatile food wine that represents very good value.

The second label from Spain is the Zumaya Tempranillo 2005 from Ribera del Duero. Zumaya takes its name from the small owl that lives in the region and it's a new concept from the Ribera del Duero region or D.O., namely a red wine that made for drinking soon after bottling. This is 100-per-cent tempranillo: Hand-picked grapes grown on 25-year-old vines close to Aranda del Duero, in the heart of the D.O. The colour is dark, the nose a mix of smoke and meaty red fruits.

The flavour is a mix of cranberry and black fruits with bits of vanilla and mocha from the American oak barrels it's aged in. A touch alcoholic if otherwise a solid Spanish red.

The final pick, Joe Blow Red 2005, is supposed to be a "serious" concept wine with a not-so-serious name. The nose is slightly dirty with a leafy, compost edge to it, showing less fruit than you might expect given its mix of syrah, merlot, petite sirah, zinfandel and cabernet sauvignon grapes. On the palate, the wine is slightly acidic with blueberry and earthy flavours. An ordinary hamburger red selling at steak prices.


NEW RELEASES


CHÂTEAU DE VALCOMBE SHIRAZ - GRENACHE 2005, Languedoc, South of France
Price: $13
UPC: 3760042790143
Score: 86/100
Remarks: Floral, mineral, black fruit with a meaty, licorice finish.

ANAKENA CARMENÈRE 2006, Valle Del Rapel, Rregion Del Valle Central, Chile
Price: $13.50
UPC: 07809539100235
Score: 86/100
Remarks: Earthy, tobacco leafy, compost, minty, chocolate flavours.

CYCLES GLADIATOR SYRAH 2005, California
Price: $17
UPC: 00086788333578
Score: 88/100
Remarks: Plums, white pepper and blueberries.

LUNA BEBERIDE MENCIA 2005, Castilla-Leon, Spain
Price: $16
UPC: 08437002954123
Score: 88/100
Remarks: Supple black-fruit flavours with soft tannins.

ZUMAYA TEMPRANILLO 2005, Castilla-Leon, SPAIN
Price: $16
UPC: 00812205002389
Score: 87/100
Remarks: Cranberry, black fruits with bits of vanilla and mocha.

JOE BLOW RED 2005, California
Price: $17
UPC: 00082242430333
Score: 86/100
Remarks: A hamburger/pizza red.

Written By: ag
Anthony Gismondi
Anthony Gismondi

Anthony Gismondi is a Canadian wine journalist and one of North America's most influential voices in wine. For over 30 years, he has been the wine columnist for The Vancouver Sun. The twice-weekly column is distributed across Canada through the Postmedia Network to millions of readers. In addition, Anthony hosts the BC Food & Wine Radio Show, broadcast in 25 markets across B.C. and available as a podcast on major platforms. He launched Gismondionwine.com in 1997, attracting one million monthly users from 114 countries. It continues to be a valuable resource full of tasting notes, intelligent wine stories and videos for the trade and consumers. Conversations with wine personalities are available on his  YouTube Channel.