New Releases and Personal Picks

Since 1989, I have focused on what I think are the best-value wines that I have tasted in the market. The six you see each week result from dozens tasted, so they are often a selection of the best that fit the day's theme.

What that means is they are not always tasted side by side each week. The scores are interrelated in the sense that two 90-point wines should deliver the same wow factor, regardless of their grape makeup or origin. Price is not a factor in the ratings, but I would caution you that there is reason why some wines cost $8 and others are $30, and often it is reflected in the quality of the wine. Finally, 85 points has always been a "buy" signal from me, so a $10 to $12 wine that gets 85 or 86 points out of 100 should be considered worth investigating.

The majority of the wines we feature can be located in government wine stores. Like it or not, they have the widest distribution, not to mention a new, functioning website that allows you locate the stores where the wine is sold. Traditionally, they also have the lowest prices and, unlike most private wine shops, they publish them for all to see.

Private wine stores have made significant inroads with consumers, offering convenience and, in many cases, different products. But the small and variable discount system they must work under leaves them unable to compete on price. It's not their fault. The field is uneven and, for the moment, it looks as if it government wants it to stay that way.

Given the size of The Vancouver Sun readership, the wines we recommend often sell out by Saturday afternoon. It doesn't mean they are gone forever. In fact, they are usually restocked the first shipping day of the week, so be sure to check back regularly.

Finally, the reviews have a five- or six-month shelf life, so clip the column and save it. A couple of weeks from now, you should have little problem finding the same wines.

This week, we highlight two of the five wines featured in the current New Product Introduction Program, available in at least 21 government liquor stores. The rest of the new releases did not impress me, so I have added some new arrivals of some old labels that you shouldn't miss.

You will love the fresh grapefruit, floral, spicy, orange creamsicle aromas of the Rosemount Traminer Riesling 2005. It is crisp, round and somewhat sweet on entry, with canned grapefruit, mineral, baked-apple, spicy, lychee flavours. An excellent picnic wine (serve well chilled), or try with lighter Indian curries. Why it is still under cork, in an old-fashioned flange bottle, instead of under screwcap is a mystery to me.

Look for the Mount Riley Sauvignon Blanc 2005 in the New Release display. Typically Marlborough, it has a musky, grapefruit rind, smoky bell pepper nose with ripe gooseberry, bell pepper and asparagus flavours. The finish is a mix of lemon and grass. Bring on the mussels.

The latest edition of the Kendall-Jackson Chardonnay Vintner's Reserve 2004 has a new label. It states that this two-million-case brand is "estate grown." Owner Jess Jackson makes a remarkable statement by controlling all the fruit that goes into the wine, and winemaker Randy Ullom delivers with a delicious, fresh and crisp chardonnay with green apple, citrus, peach skin, pear and buttery lees flavours. It has both elegance and balance, with some definite cool fruit characters. A very attractive style for sipping before or during dinner.

Pinot Noir has been a theme all year in B.C., and the latest Mark West Pinot Noir 2004 from the Central Coast should attract even more attention. The nose is cool pinot -- rhubarb, smoky, rootsy, carrot top streaked with strawberry and some leafy, vanilla notes. In the mouth, it's soft and round -- black cherry, smoky, spicy, strawberry jam and celery salt flavours. A very solid and affordable pinot, with a savoury streak.

The other New Release in B.C. Liquor stores you should check out is the Michel Torino Don David Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2003. Typically Argentine, the nose is a mix of savoury, blackberry, vanilla and tobacco leaf aromas with peppery, resiny, cassis and smoky chocolate flavours. Rich, warm and chunky, this would be a fine accompaniment to grilled beef and or lamb. Good value, too.

The new Carmen Syrah Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2003 is a 50-50 blend with a big meaty, spicy, coriander, floral fruit nose. It is warm (alcoholic) on the palate with plenty of cassis, black cherry, pepper and minty, vanilla flavours. Long with good fruit, but still some youthful tannin to shed. Should improve in the bottle over the next one to three years. An excellent red wine.

ROSEMOUNT TRAMINER RIESLING 2005, SOUTH EASTERN AUSTRALIA
Price: $12.99
UPC: 012894891114
Score: 86/100
Remarks: Sweet style with good acidity. Good picnic wine, or for lighter Indian curries.

MOUNT RILEY SAUVIGNON BLANC 2005, MARLBOROUGH, NEW ZEALAND
Price: $19.99
UPC: 9419663020002
Score: 88/100
Remarks: Crisp, dry, elegant sauvignon with ripe gooseberry, grapefruit rind flavours.

KENDALL-JACKSON CHARDONNAY VINTNER'S RESERVE 2004, CALIFORNIA
Price: $23.99
UPC: 081584013105
Score: 89/100
Remarks: A triumph of grape growing and winemaking, repeated for 24 million bottles.

MARK WEST PINOT NOIR 2004, CENTRAL COAST, CALIFORNIA
Price: $22.99
UPC: 851718000048
Score: 88/100
Remarks: Solid and affordable pinot.

MICHEL TORINO DON DAVID CABERNET SAUVIGNON RESERVE 2003, ARGENTINA
Price: $15.99
UPC: 790189000177
Score: 86/100
Remarks: Warm, chunky red suited to grilled beef or lamb.

CARMEN SYRAH CABERNET SAUVIGNON RESERVE 2003, VALLE DEL MAIPO, CHILE
Price: $25.95
UPC: 677758901233
Score: 91/100
Remarks: Black cherry, pepper, mint flavours mark this stylish red.