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Anthony Gismondi on Wine

One of the more remarkable qualities human beings possess is the ability to adjust to change.

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In fact, we adapt faster than ever these days and nowhere is it more obvious than in the wine business.

 

Remember all the fuss about screwcaps and how wineries would never use them and consumers would never buy them. Similarly, organic wine characterized as dreadful in the glass and overpriced too, was doomed to the bottom shelf in the back of the wine store. Both are runaway success stories today.

 

Sustainability is the current watchword in wine, and although it lacks a single, credible definition, it would appear consumers and producers can't move fast enough to embrace the notion of a winery, vineyard or wine with a lighter carbon/energy footprint. And just as amazing, most are moving in this direction without any government legislation.

 

In California the concept of sustainable agriculture is penetrating the entire wine industry. Since 2002, the California Wine Institute reports, "More than 1,000 wineries and vineyard enterprises have participated in self-assessment workshops and over 5,000 vintners and growers have attended targeted education events in winegrowing regions throughout California."

 

Solar panels and wind turbines are also becoming an integral part of California's wine landscape as are green buildings, and water conservation. The institute also reports, "Dozens of California vineyards and wineries have employee-run recycling and solid waste management programs."

 

As the wine industry goes green at breakneck speed, you might ask what's next? Current fuel prices would dictate bottle weight will be a major issue for producers and ultimately consumers. Large, deep-punted, heavy bottles were created by marketers who wanted to convey a sense of quality based on weight. In another time it may have been considered clever. Now in a world of budding environmentalists, it simply looks excessive.

 

The switch to lighter bottles is already underway at Yalumba in South Australia and should be seen in Canada soon. I have no doubt new, light weight bottles will be widely applauded (and purchased) by environmentally-sensitive consumers (and there's a bunch of them) in a matter of months.

 

Today we look at a number of new releases widely available in over 30 of the most important government wine stores. Just look for the special displays marked "Featured New Wines."

 

A trio of whites perfect for a warm spring weekend begin with Chat-en-Oeuf Vin Blanc. I was a fan of the red "cat-on-the-egg" label and I am equally impressed with the white. The nose is suitably aromatic given its mix of grenache blanc, marsanne, roussanne and vermentino. More than that, there is a thread of minerality and bright acidity that simply makes it fun to drink -- especially with seafood and tapas style appetizers. Great value too. Stock up.

 

There is something about sauvignon blanc from Bordeaux that is not only correct, but very drinkable too. Dourthe has done a fine job with its Numero One for more than a decade even if it lives in obscurity under the white Bordeaux label. We love the Dourthe ? 1 Sauvignon Blanc 20th Anniversary 2007 and its restrained, lightly smoky, fruit flavours flecked with minerals, ripe grapefruit and just a dash of lees or oatmeal. Cool calm and sophisticated it is the perfect solo aperitif or serve with grilled chicken or fish dishes.


Teddy Hall is well known in the Cape for producing top Chenin Blanc (Rudera) and perhaps more important fresh wine -- the key component of this chenin blanc under screwcap. The Teddy Hall Chenin Blanc 2007 has a lightweight, fruity entry with a touch of zippy acidity and bits of floral orange blossoms to spice up the finish. Fresh, fun, affordable and clean. Sip solo on the patio or pair it up with small bites before dinner.

 

Finca Flichman Misterio Malbec Oak Aged 2007 leads off our second trio, this time they are all reds. There isn't too much Misterio about this malbec, but its round, earthy, black fruit flavours will appeal to many. The finish is spicy and dry with just a small amount of rustic tannins. A solid hamburger/barbecued ribs red at an affordable price.

 

Johnny Q Shiraz Viognier 2006 uses the viognier to play the fruity, floral notes. The nose is open and intense with floral, pepper, black fruit aromas that waft out of the glass. Similar dark fruit flavours, with bits of licorice and spicy plum fruit and a dollop of acid, mix with warm peppery, floral notes and a twist of dry, leathery tannins. Think veal chop.

 

Perhaps the best of the bunch hails from España. The story of Spain is: No. 1 in vineyards but only No. 3 in production. Translation: Lower than average yields make better wines. We love the freshness in the Salamandra 2006 dry red with smoky, meaty, red cherry fruit undertones. This is a wine drinker's red with dry, earthy, plummy fruit that comes off both sides of the Duero in La Rioja and Ribera del Duero. Grilled beef, lamb kebabs or chicken should subdue the youthful tannins at the dinner table. Impressive value in a dry red wine that is aged a mere three months in French oak.

 


CHAT-EN-OEUF VIN BLANC 2007, France

Price: $14.00

UPC: 3430560001686

Score: 87/100

Remarks: I was a fan of the red "cat-on-the-egg" and I am equally impressed with the white.

 

DOURTHE  No.  1 SAUVIGNON BLANC 20TH ANNIVERSARY 2007, Bordeaux, France

Price: $18.00

UPC: 3258691241067

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Cool calm and sophisticated it is the perfect solo apéritif.

 

TEDDY HALL CHENIN BLANC 2007, South Africa

Price: $17.00

UPC: 6005357000905

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Fresh, fun, affordable white you can pair with a variety of foods.

 

FINCA FLICHMAN MISTERIO MALBEC OAK AGED 2007, Argentina

Price: $14.00

UPC: 7790470083094

Score: 86/100

Remarks: A solid hamburger /barbecued ribs red at an affordable price.

 

JOHNNY Q SHIRAZ VIOGNIER SHIRAZ - VIOGNIER 2006, Australia

Price: $15.00

UPC: 9337739000270

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Floral, peppery, black fruit nose that wafts out of the glass.

 

SALAMANDRA 2006, Spain

Price: $15.00

UPC: 635335318010

Score: 88/100

Remarks: This is a wine drinker's red. Impressive value in a dry red wine.

Written By: ag
Anthony Gismondi
Anthony Gismondi

Anthony Gismondi is a Canadian wine journalist and one of North America's most influential voices in wine. For over 30 years, he has been the wine columnist for The Vancouver Sun. The twice-weekly column is distributed across Canada through the Postmedia Network to millions of readers. In addition, Anthony hosts the BC Food & Wine Radio Show, broadcast in 25 markets across B.C. and available as a podcast on major platforms. He launched Gismondionwine.com in 1997, attracting one million monthly users from 114 countries. It continues to be a valuable resource full of tasting notes, intelligent wine stories and videos for the trade and consumers. Conversations with wine personalities are available on his  YouTube Channel.