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Anthony Gismondi on Wine

Last month I reviewed a number of wines that were part of a pilot project developed to introduce exciting new products to government liquor store shelves.

Since that column appeared, I've had a chance to take a deeper look at the program and I really like what I see. I'm not sure some of the mega-wine companies, which have a monopoly of their own on shelf space, love the program - but why would they? Most of what they want us to buy is not just mediocre, it's boring, and frankly, if they were forced to renew their long-held lock on shelf space by putting their wines through the current listing process, most of what they are serving up would never make the grade. That's the beauty of the new product program. It offers hope to innovative producers large and small that want to sell something that is more than just a brand or an image. Today's picks are not cheap wines by any stretch of the imagination, but each tells a story about its origin and most deliver fine value. More important, wines such as these raise the value-for-money bar in their respective categories, giving government buyers cause to ask what other wineries are prepared to sell us that offers similar quality and value. The pilot project gives these wines just 30 days' exposure in LDB stores, and I'm not sure that's enough time for consumers to discover them - 60 to 90 days might be more reasonable. But there's no denying the fairness of the program's sales requirements. Each of today's picks will have to sell a modest 12 bottles in a pilot-project store during its the first month for the wine to remain on the shelves. If about 2,500 bottles sell in six months, the wine gets permanent status. Here's my take on the latest arrivals, tasted last week with the LDB's senior portfolio manager and buyer, David Scholefield. Penfolds has launched a new series under the Thomas Hyland label. The Thomas Hyland 2001 Chardonnay springs from the Yattarna project, which is Penfolds' unofficial quest to create a white that equals its flagship red, Grange Shiraz. Do we need another Australian chardonnay, especially at $22? Well, the answer is yes, if it features fabulous, high-altitude Adelaide Hills fruit with all its lemon zest and grapefruit flavours. Toasted oak (70 per cent of the barrels are new French oak) and creamy lees add to the complexity and length. This is outstanding and sets a new standard for chardonnay under $25. The bookend to the chardonnay is the Thomas Hyland Shiraz, made from select McLaren Vale, Coonawarra and Barossa Valley fruit that's blended in new and old French and American barrels. Bright, heady mulberry and blueberry fruit flavours are interlaced with the obligatory spicy oak, licorice and eucalyptus. Elements of fruitcake, chocolate and savoury plums make this classic Oz red a sure-fire winner. Fortunately the Prinz von Hessen 2000 Riesling Halbtrocken is easier to drink than to pronounce. It's made to accompany food, and it's a clear step up in intensity and quality from most entry-level German whites. Expect clean, juicy fruit with mineral streaks and the corresponding halbtrocken (half-dry) finish, which is always tart and always dry. This is not for every palate but perfect with pork roast. One of Spain's brightest wine lights (and a star of last year's Playhouse festival) is Telmo Rodriguez. Wherever he makes wine in Spain, he causes a stir. His latest effort, 2000 Viña 105 Unoaked, made at Cigales (just north Valladolid), is no exception. The nose is a mix of intense crushed leaf and dried herbs, with rich berry fruit aromas. The blend is tempranillo and garnacha; the taste is strawberries, raspberries and blackcurrants that finish firm and dry. This one is well worth getting to know. Andre Brunel, one of Châteauneuf du Pape's most energetic, competent and talented young proprietors, is the man behind 2000 Côtes du Rhône Cuvee Sommelongue. It comes from his vineyard holdings outside Châteauneuf du Pape and blends 85 per cent grenache with 15 per cent syrah. The nose is fragrant, and in the mouth it bursts of ripe cassis, jammy flavours. The concentration is excellent and its expansive, chewy textures suggest it will age well for another three to five years. Indy car legend and winery owner Mario Andretti and winemaker Robert Pepi are the names behind the Andretti Selection Series 1999 Claret, a 76-24 blend of merlot and cabernet sauvignon. The nose has pleasant spiced-oak and sweet-vanilla aromas, while the taste mixes toasted macaroons, plums and sweet blueberry fruit with a streak of pepper in the finish. This is straight-up California red at an affordable price. Weekend Wine Tasting: New Listings Wine Penfolds Thomas Hyland 2000 Chardonnay Adelaide Hills, South Australia Price $21.95 Stock No. 611228 Score 16/20 Remarks Fresh, outstanding. Wine Penfolds Thomas Hyland 2000 Shiraz Adelaide Hills, South Australia Price $23.95 Stock No. 611210 Score 17/20 Remarks Blueberry fruitcake. Wine Prinz von Hessen 2000 Riesling Halbtrocken, Rheingau, Germany Price $19.95 Stock No. 608620 Score 15.5/20 Remarks Firm, dry, fruity. Wine Telmo Rodriguez 2000 Viña 105 Unoaked Cigales, Spain Price $14.95 Stock No. 603753 Score 14.5/20 Remarks Classy red to pair with grilled meats. Wine Andre Brunel 2000 Côtes du Rhône France Price $20.95 Stock No. 614263 Score 16/20 Remarks One reason Rhône wines are hot. Wine Andretti Selection Series 1999 Claret California Price $19.95 Stock No. 616128 Score 15.5/20 Remarks Easy sipping, well priced.
Written By: ag
Anthony Gismondi
Anthony Gismondi

Anthony Gismondi is a Canadian wine journalist and one of North America's most influential voices in wine. For over 30 years, he has been the wine columnist for The Vancouver Sun. The twice-weekly column is distributed across Canada through the Postmedia Network to millions of readers. In addition, Anthony hosts the BC Food & Wine Radio Show, broadcast in 25 markets across B.C. and available as a podcast on major platforms. He launched Gismondionwine.com in 1997, attracting one million monthly users from 114 countries. It continues to be a valuable resource full of tasting notes, intelligent wine stories and videos for the trade and consumers. Conversations with wine personalities are available on his  YouTube Channel.