NBC ( Nothing But Chardonnay)

Oh sure, some trade types have been mumbling about an ABC or "anything but chardonnay" movement for a while and riesling is deservedly gaining a renewed respect but whether its wine shop aisles, backyard patios, or restaurant wine lists, California chardonnay and its global imitators remain the premium white wine choice of most North Americans.

In this story we take a comprehensive look at NBC "nothing but chardonnay" California-style to see what it is that makes this wine so appealing to such a wide spectrum of wine drinkers.

What we found may surprise you. After tasting some 250 labels from up and down the state (or just about every California chardonnay sold in Canada and then some) it's clear to us that the quality of California chardonnay has never been better.

Chardonnay is the most widely planted white grape in California even though it didn't appear on the varietal radar screen until the early 1970's. By 1991 there were 56,609 acres in the ground and those numbers have almost doubled to some 104,000 acres as of 2001, even in California's new post-phylloxera landscape.

We mention phylloxera because the tiny root sucking louse that both threatened and destroyed so many acres is partly responsible for chardonnays rebirth. Many producers replanted the versatile grape to the coolest, most marginal, sites in the state where acidity and fruit are intensified long before the grape gets to the winery.

As impressive as the jump in acreage looks chardonnay tonnage has taken a quantum leap upward spiking from 169,710 tons crushed in 1990 (average sale price was $1128 per ton) to a record 650,525 tons (selling at $895 per ton) in the year 2000.

To say there is an oversupply of chardonnay is an understatement - although the kind of grapes that were left to rot on the vine in 2001 says more about the style of chardonnay today's consumers want than price. Obviously low acid fruit, with low flavour intensity and little varietal character is not much of a bargaining chip for growers anywhere.

There are reasons for chardonnay's continued domination in California beginning with Mother Nature itself. Since 1990 eight out of ten harvests could be classified as very good to excellent. The only problem vintages were 1993 and 1998 whose detractors would say (with some minor exceptions) that there were far too many simple, lean, acidic examples to garner any resounding acclaim.

As mentioned, superior (read cooler) site selection combined with improved rootstocks, clones and vineyard management have all had an enormous impact on quality.

When you think about it most of the early plantings were rooted in warm inland sites to ensure sufficient ripening and hence alcohol. Those clumsy grapes responsible for monster alcoholic whites have given way to much better balanced fruit grown in cooler coastal vineyards.

While many old Napa and Sonoma sites remain active they have been joined in large measure by cooler AVAs such as Sonoma Coast, Santa Ynez, Arroyo Grande, Anderson Valley, Salinas, Mendocino, Monterey, Santa Maria, Carneros and more.
With few exceptions today's chardonnay grapes hang longer and in cooler conditions delivering more intensely flavoured fruit and more vibrant, mouth-watering acidity.

Still, after the influences of clonal selection and cool climates the true footprint of chardonnay, the most malleable of grapes, is shaped by the winemaker.

From the moment the grapes are picked the style of any chardonnay as expressed by its combination of flavours, textures and acidity and balance, is determined by the person making wine. What style a chardonnay takes usually reflects the reality of the its price point on retail shelves so its safe to assume more than a few accountants have something to do with the style at some wineries.

If there is a common technique in the 00s it's that most producers utilize whole cluster pressing of grapes. The process produces a cleaner, gentler juice with lower solids content and much less tannin extraction from skins and seeds yielding wines that are rounder and more elegant in general and less prone to oxidation.

Solids content will to some extent determine the heavier aromas and flavours that develop in chardonnay and definitely contribute to the wines complexity adding toasty, leesy aromas (bread dough, yeasty marmite-like notes).

You must be careful because the same solids if excessive or if mishandled can produce off odours akin to crushed garlic or onion.

The battle of natural yeast versus cultured agents continues. Some winemakers believe wild or natural occurring yeast adds additional complexity and creaminess to the wines although our tastings would suggest a mixture of cultured yeast can accomplish much of the same with few if any added problems.

Fermenting in stainless steel tanks is economical, mostly carefree and it maintains the fresh fruity flavours that were worked so hard for in the vineyard but complexity or the lack of it is an issue if only this method is used.

Barrel fermentation ups the ante considerably thanks to decisions about whether it will be a full or partial ferment with high or low solids. You can add to that the lees stirring issue: frequently (weekly), occasionally, or simply leaving the juice sur lee after the yeast fermentation without any stirring.

Fermentations can also be started in stainless steel and finished in barrel. This technique makes for finer lees and somewhat less oak vanilla characters while giving the wine rich, creamy, spicy characters.

One hundred percent barrel-fermented chardonnays exhibit a much bigger honey, creamy, integrated vanilla profile while frequent lees stirring increases the toasty, nutty, spicy, almost garlic-like flavours. Just as important is the perceived effect on your palate. Certainly barrel fermentation with lees stirring can increase the wine's fatness and roundness.

Generally, fine lees contact and moderate stirring adds a toasted, nutty, spicy, baked apple character to the apple flavours already present. Too much stirring of the lees can lead to a drier, more austere chardonnay and some over-oxidation.

The choice of French or American oak and the level of barrel toasting are yet more key determinates in a chardonnay's style. American oak tends to have very high vanillin, buttery components with some sweetness whereas French oak tends to be spicier with more overall richness in the mouth. Heavy toasting can add very smoky, spicy, sweet notes, especially "buttered popcorn" from American oak.

Malolactic fermentation, a classic Burgundian technique used to soften wine's acidity, has been at the centre of many great French chardonnays but until recently it only seemed to serve as a contributing factor to further "fattening up" an already low acid California chardonnay.

Today's cool-climate, higher acid, citrus flavoured grapes are much better suited to this secondary bacterial fermentation that yields buttery, creamy flavours and texture. It also allows winemakers to tinker with the pure fruit flavours of apple, pear, citrus and melon modifying them by adding a dimension and complexity that was unthinkable as little as a decade ago.

It's a balancing act, both artistic and scientific to which there's no single answer or style. But that's fine with us because we think the current crop of California chardonnay is the best we've ever tasted and it can only get better. The current range of styles and qualities offers something for all consumer tastes.

Would we like to see better and more plentiful wines under $20 in Canada? You bet but when it comes to high-end, quality chardonnay theirs is no better value in the Canadian marketplace than California chardonnay.

89/100 Chateau St. Jean Chardonnay 2000
Sonoma County, California, United States
Classic Sonoma aromas of ripe McIntosh apple with a touch of peach and pear. Clean mineral/apple/lees flavours complement its lean structure and styling. A refined, cool style chardonnay that's fun to drink. Lovely balance, great price.
Tasted: 2003-05-06 by AG-ST
Prices: AB $21.99 Fine Wine Boutiques; BC $24.99 Specialty
CSPC: 421644;   UPC: 089819055098
Producer: Chateau Saint Jean
Distributor: Mark Anthony Wine Merchants

90/100 Cakebread Cellars Chardonnay 2001
Napa Valley, California, United States
The Cakebread grapes are whole-cluster pressed helping to add to its smooth silky texture and then 60 to 70 percent of the wine is barrel-fermented and up to a quarter goes through malolactic fermentation. Look for citrus, mineral, honey aromas with a touch of spicy lees. The taste profile is similar with honey apple skin and citrus notes throughout. The finish is warm and dry. Solid if unspectacular for the price.
Tasted: 2003-04-13 by AG-ST
Prices: AB $65.45 Fine Wine Boutiques; BC $74.95 Specialty
CSPC: 191437
Producer: Cakebread Cellars
Distributor: Winspeer International Group Ltd.

88/100 Kendall-Jackson Chardonnay Vintner's Reserve 2001
California, United States
Lovely open mineral and spicy lees nose with streaks of smoky apple. Rich flavourful entry with nutty juicy apple flavours and a dollop of K-J oak. It's not as fat or oaky as it smells which is a good thing. It finishes a bit chalky and buttery but not too oaky. Good intensity of flavours.
Tasted: 2003-04-13 by AG-ST
Prices: BC $25.95 Specialty
CSPC: 296566;   UPC: 081584013105
Producer: Kendall-Jackson Vineyards and Winery
Distributor: Renaissance Wine Merchants
 
89/100 Vine Cliff Chardonnay 2000
Napa Valley, California, United States
The 2000 Vine Cliff Napa chardonnay is made with 100 per cent Carneros fruit that was hand-harvested, hand-sorted and whole-cluster pressed. Eleven individual vineyard lots were used in the final blend. Expect a super ripe peach/mango nose with citrus lees and honey aromas, all very Napa. Similar rich flavours are showing some heat with plenty of tasty spicy lees. Excellent effort.
Tasted: 2003-04-13 by AG-ST
Prices: AB $50.00 Fine Wine Boutiques; BC $48.95 Specialty
Producer: Vine Cliff Winery
Distributor: WineQuest Wine and Spirit Brokers
 
86/100 R. H. Phillips Chardonnay 2001
Dunnigan Hills, Yolo County, California, United States
There's a twinge of spice in this fruity style chardonnay with good mouthfeel. More tropical in the mouth with melon and baked apple fruit flavours. Solid everyday California chardonnay at a fair price.
Tasted: 2003-03-19 by AG-ST
Prices: BC $14.99 Specialty
CSPC: 594440;   UPC: 87110300572
Producer: R. H. Phillips
Distributor: Atlas Wine Merchants

89/100 Benziger Chardonnay 2001
Carneros, Sonoma County, California, United States
This one hundred per cent barrel fermented chardonnay has an enticing spicy lees nose mixed with a riot of mineral, vanilla, butterscotch, citrus rind and melon aromas. Quite rich and round it's slightly oily with more melon, spicy lees, mango, butterscotch, citrus and mineral flavours and a creamy, toasted vanilla finish. Fine acidity and balance mark this very elegant all Carneros fruit effort.
Tasted: 2003-03-10 by AG-ST
Prices: BC $34.95 Specialty
CSPC: 256388;   UPC: 7857774000219
Producer: Benziger Family Winery
Distributor: Winspeer International Group Ltd.

93/100 Benziger Chardonnay Reserve 2000
Carneros, Sonoma County, California, United States
Benziger chardonnay vines are getting old (26 years average age) and that's good news for wine lovers. Look for buttery, vanilla, spicy lees flavours mixed with mango, tangerine and floral, chalky, melon highlights. The textures are rich and round but elegant on the palate. More chalky, mineral, citrus pineapple, flavours streaked the toasted vanilla finish. Fresh, delicate and full of finesse.
Tasted: 2003-03-10 by AG-ST
Prices: BC $53.50 Speculative - Winspeer
CSPC: 541300
Producer: Benziger Family Winery
Distributor: Winspeer International Group Ltd.

86/100 Estancia Chardonnay Pinnacles 2000
Monterey County, Central Coast, California, United States
Toasted lees nose with plenty of baked apple and citrus with just a touch of rubber. Rich entry with more baked apple fruit but the finish is drying out and beginning to show its age. Drink up.
Tasted: 2003-02-25 by AG-ST
Prices: BC $21.95
CSPC: 322057;   UPC: 083085300586
Producer: Estancia Estates
Distributor: Charton-Hobbs

88/100 Bonterra Vineyards Chardonnay 2001
Mendocino County, California, United States
This historic 378-acre Bonterra vineyard, located in the Russian River benchlands of Mendocino County, is certified organic. Farming practices include composting, cover crops, and natural cycles to create a soil that is rich and vital. Soil, plants and animals together create a web of natural balance where all the elements thrive. Look for bright citrus lemon oil and apple skin. Very soft and buttery in the mouth with plenty of green apple skin and lime rind flavours. Buttery lees flavours mark a long soft delicate finish.
Tasted: 2003-02-25 by AG-ST
Prices: BC $21.99 Specialty
CSPC: 342436;   UPC: 082896780419
Producer: Bonterra Vineyards
Distributor: Charton-Hobbs

87/100 Pepi Chardonnay 2001
Napa Valley, California, United States
Fine mineral, green apple, peach aromas flecked with nutty lees notes. Dry, round and fresh with green apple, citrus, lemon, mineral flavours and light, buttery finish. Its clean, fresh, balanced style makes it easy to pair with food.
Tasted: 2003-02-18 by AG-ST
Prices: AB $23.49 Speculative - Rennaisance; BC $28.95 Speculative - Rennaisance
Producer: Pepi Winery
Distributor: Renaissance Wine Merchants

91/100 Edmeades Chardonnay 2000
Anderson Valley, Mendocino County, California, United States
The Edmeades chardonnay is fermented with native, "wild" yeast in 81 per cent French oak. Peach, citrus, green apple, vanilla and buttery lees aromas mark the nose. It is ripe, round and fresh with balanced acidity and elegance. Spicy lees, butter, melon, baked apple and mango flavours. Good intensity and balance, very spicy and not too fat. Well done, good value.
Tasted: 2003-02-18 by AG-ST
Prices: AB $28.99 Fine Wine Boutiques; BC $32.50
Producer: Edmeades
Distributor: Renaissance Wine Merchants

89/100 Kendall-Jackson Chardonnay Grand Reserve 2001
California, United States
Lovely open ripe peach, melon, butter vanilla aromas streaked with citrus and mango. Ripe but elegant with a bit skinnier, crisper palate. Creamy vanilla lees, buttery peach, melon and mango flavours melt into its delicious spicy finish. Crisp, clean and creamy with just a touch of heat in the aftertaste. Fruit sources are a who's who of California wine regions: 40 Monterey County, 35 Santa Maria Valley, 8 Santa Barbara County, 8 Sonoma-Carneros and 4 Russian River Valley.
Tasted: 2003-02-18 by AG-ST
Prices: AB $37.99 Fine Wine Boutiques; BC $45.95 Speculative - Renaissance
Producer: Kendall-Jackson Vineyards and Winery
Distributor: Renaissance Wine Merchants

94/100 Kendall-Jackson Chardonnay Great Estates Arroyo Seco 2000
Arroyo Seco, Monterey County, Central Coast, California, United States
The heart of this wine is the Dijon and Rued Chardonnay clones that spend 10 months in 100 per cent French oak of which 34 per cent is new. Floral, citrus, honey, baked apple, vanilla cream and mineral aromas waft out of the glass. Ripe and round with big spicy, citrus, floral, mango, peaches and cream flavours and a creamy, vanilla orange finish. Elegant, crisp and long with a spicy, lees aftertaste. Very stylish.
Tasted: 2003-02-18 by AG-ST
Prices: AB $61.99; BC $69.95 Speculative - Renaissance
Producer: Kendall-Jackson Vineyards and Winery
Distributor: Renaissance Wine Merchants

92/100 Kendall-Jackson Chardonnay Great Estates Sonoma Coast 2000
Sonoma Coast, Sonoma County, California, United States
Primarily Sonoma Carneros, Sonoma Valley and Russian River Valley fruit gives this stylish chardonnay a citrus/baked apple, melon, peach and spicy vanilla lees nose. Similar ripe flavours with more baked apple, spicy, creamy vanilla and lees flavours with a peach, mineral, citrus finish. Quite a creamy, oily texture with better balance, less apparent alcohol and better acidity balance than the Grand Reserve. Another fine effort from winemaker Randy Ullom's team.
Tasted: 2003-02-18 by AG-ST
Prices: AB $46.99; BC $54.95 Speculative - Renaissance
Producer: Kendall-Jackson Vineyards and Winery
Distributor: Renaissance Wine Merchants

95/100 Kendall-Jackson Chardonnay Stature 2000
Santa Maria Valley, Santa Barbara County, Central Coast, California, United States
Big mango, pineapple, toasted, smoky lees aromas with honey, marmalade and citrus scents. Very rich, round and oily yet well balanced on the palate. Expect intense baked apple, spicy lees, creamy mango, citrus and honey flavours. Very long with good acidity, a top quality chardonnay for those who like intensity and we do. Sensational bottle of wine.
Tasted: 2003-02-18 by AG-ST
Prices:
Producer: Kendall-Jackson Vineyards and Winery
Distributor: Renaissance Wine Merchants

90/100 Kendall-Jackson Chardonnay Camelot Bench 2001
Santa Maria Valley, Santa Barbara County, Central Coast, California, United States
Ripe apple, spicy, buttery, mango aromas with honey and toasted lees notes. Round entry with elegant styling and fine acidity. Similar big apple, spicy lees, vanilla and honey flavours with a touch of mango on the finish. Love the structure and finesse.
Tasted: 2003-02-18 by AG-ST
Prices:
Producer: Kendall-Jackson Vineyards and Winery
Distributor: Renaissance Wine Merchants

88/100 Cambria Chardonnay 2000
Santa Maria Valley, Santa Barbara County, Central Coast, California, United States
Katherine's Chardonnay grapes are whole-cluster pressed and its primary and secondary fermentation take place in French oak barrels where the wine is aged sur lies for a period of eight months. Look for a spicy, toasted lees, butter, pear and mango aromas with a touch of orange and honey. Dry, soft and elegant with mineral, pear, buttery lees flavours and dry citrus, butter finish. Well balanced and priced.
Tasted: 2003-02-17 by AG-ST
Prices: BC $22.95
Producer: Cambria Winery & Vineyard
Distributor: Vinterra Wine Merchants

92/100 Cambria Chardonnay Bench Break Vineyard 2000
Santa Maria Valley, Santa Barbara County, Central Coast, California, United States
Very attractive creamy vanilla, smoky lees, mineral/slate, citrus rind, and apple aromas. Dry, somewhat tight palate with more mineral, buttery lees, citrus and baked apple flavours. Round and a touch oily with a dry mango, smoky finish. Long lean and very sophisticated. This will need a year or two more to be fully developed.
Tasted: 2003-02-17 by AG-ST
Prices: BC $48.00 Speculative - Vinterra Wines
Producer: Cambria Winery & Vineyard
Distributor: Vinterra Wine Merchants
 
90/100 Matanzas Creek Chardonnay 2000
Sonoma Valley, Sonoma County, California, United States
Predominately cool, micro-climate fruit is used here from Sonoma Valley and small amount of Russian River. Look for a bright honey, butter, mineral and citrus nose. It's round, dry and crisp with a slightly oily texture. Fine buttery, spicy lees, mineral, citrus baked apple flavours fade into a soft, elegant flavourful finish. Simple but very enjoyable style.
Tasted: 2003-02-17 by AG-ST
Prices: BC $49.50
Producer: Matanzas Creek Winery
Distributor: Vinterra Wine Merchants

91/100 Matanzas Creek Chardonnay 2001
Sonoma Valley, Sonoma County, California, United States
Smoky, toasty oak vanilla nose with ripe peach, apple skin and floral notes all streaked citrus rind and mineral notes. Round, elegant and oily on the palate the '01 is a bit leaner than the 2000 but we love the mineral chalky, green apple/peach, and buttery spicy smoky lees flavours. Very fine mineral and citrus style that has the ability to age and improve.
Tasted: 2003-02-17 by AG-ST
Prices: BC $56.00 Specialty
Producer: Matanzas Creek Winery
Distributor: Vinterra Wine Merchants

91/100 Cambria Katherine's Chardonnay 2001
Santa Maria Valley, Santa Barbara County, Central Coast, California, United States
At harvest, 2001 Katherine's Chardonnay grapes were gently whole-cluster pressed to capture the fresh flavours while avoiding any harsh tannin. Primary and secondary fermentation took place in French oak barrels of which 32 per cent are new. The wine is aged sur lies for a period of eight months. Look for a bright mineral, pear, buttery, floral, citrus and honey aromas. The structure is dry and lean with mineral, citrus, creamy butter, vanilla and apple skin flavours. Still tight and needs a bit of time to develop. Very similar to a Puligny. Fine potential to age for the next 3 to 5 years.
Tasted: 2003-02-17 by AG-ST
Prices: BC $41.50 Speculative - Vinterra Wines
Producer: Cambria Winery & Vineyard
Distributor: Vinterra Wine Merchants
 
90/100 Hartford Court Chardonnay Stone Côte Vineyard 2000
Sonoma Coast, Sonoma County, California, United States
Expect a medium yellow colour and a big flinty nectarine skin nose. Stone Cote is a small block that lies within the famous Durrell Vineyard and sits on what amounts to a hanging river bed on the side of Sonoma Mountain. (On a clear day you can see the Transamerica tower in downtown San Francisco). This is a cool site and it's reflected by the mineral peachy kiwi fruit flavours. Fine quality but the 2000 vintage needs drinking.
Tasted: 2003-02-16 by AG
Prices: BC $58.50 Speculative - Vinterra Wine Merchants
Producer: Hartford Family Wines
Distributor: Vinterra Wine Merchants
 
93/100 Hartford Court Chardonnay Seascape Vineyard 1999
Sonoma Coast, Sonoma County, California, United States
Fog seldom leaves this coastal vineyard that is one of the coolest and further west in California. Some of the fruit was picked as late as November 16. The colour is a dark "grand cru" yellow with lots of smoky Burgundian fruit. The flavours are a mix of nutty, citrus, orange and pear fruit with a personality Don Hartford describes as extreme yet subtle. We agree. What a fabulous bottle of chardonnay.
Tasted: 2003-02-16 by AG
Prices: BC $95.00 Speculative - Vinterra Wine Merchants
Producer: Hartford Family Wines
Distributor: Vinterra Wine Merchants

92/100 Hartford Court Chardonnay Laura's Vineyard 2000
Sonoma Coast, Sonoma County, California, United States
Laura's Vineyard is a multi-vineyard blend of heritage clone chardonnays from the Sonoma Ridges and Green Valley on the Sonoma Coast. Some provide floral components; other texture. Look for an open buttery rich chardonnay with wonderful balance. There are nutty, mineral aspects mixed with pear and vanilla that makes this a delicious drop of white wine. Solid rich, long and persistent.
Tasted: 2003-02-16 by AG
Prices: BC $100.00 Speculative - Vinterra Wine Merchants
Producer: Hartford Family Wines
Distributor: Vinterra Wine Merchants
 
89/100 Hartford Chardonnay Sonoma Coast 2001
Sonoma Coast, Sonoma County, California, United States
Hartford's Sonoma Coast chardonnay is comprised of individual lots that don't make the final cut for its top wines and that's good news for chardonnay bargain hunters. The '01 Sonoma Coast mixes single vineyard Russian River and Green Valley fruit that of a handful of growers along the Russian River and the southern edges of Sonoma Coast. Look for a fresh mineral / Burgundian nose. The flavours are a mix of peach, pear and citrus fruit. Fine quality here from reasonable production of 5554 cases.
Tasted: 2003-02-16 by AG
Prices: BC $41.50 Speculative - Vinterra Wine Merchants
Producer: Hartford Family Wines
Distributor: Vinterra Wine Merchants

91/100 Hartford Court Chardonnay Stone Côte Vineyard 2001
Sonoma Coast, Sonoma County, California, United States
Stone Cote is a small block that lies within the famous Durrell Vineyard that sits on what amounts to a hanging river bed on the side of Sonoma Mountain. The wine has a wet stone, mineral nose with nutty exotic flavours and streaks of orange in the finish. The textures are sleek the finish is smooth. Impressive chardonnay.
Tasted: 2003-02-11 by AG
Prices: BC $58.50 Speculative - Vinterra Wine Merchants
Producer: Hartford Family Wines
Distributor: Vinterra Wine Merchants

87/100 Estancia Chardonnay Pinnacles 2001
Monterey County, Central Coast, California, United States
Classic Monterey chardonnay with mineral apple skin honey and green peach aromas and highly flavourful citrus dried lees and baked apple fruit. It's well made with fine length and finish and, it's fun to drink.
Tasted: 2003-01-31 by AG-ST
Prices: BC $21.95
CSPC: 322057;   UPC: 083085300586
Producer: Estancia Estates
Distributor: Charton-Hobbs

85/100 Julius Wile Chardonnay 2001
California, United States
Buttery peach melon perfumed honey apple nose with similar honey-apple fruit flavours in a soft, simple, clean fresh style. Surprisingly good value for California and well worth trying.
Tasted: 2003-01-31 by AG-ST
Prices: BC $11.95
CSPC: 294728;   UPC: 5002403069023
Producer: Julius Wile & Sons
Distributor: The Bacchus Group Inc.

90/100 Byron Chardonnay 2000
Santa Maria Valley, Santa Barbara County, Central Coast, California, United States
Ripe orange, mineral, apple skin, spicy lees nose with tropical fruit notes in the background. Very creamy, round entry with fresh acidity and more citrus, vanilla, toasty creamy lees flavours with some pineapple on the finish. Wonderful balance and tasty - sensational drinking chardonnay that should be sold by the boat load.
Tasted: 2003-01-29 by AG-ST
Prices: AB $34.95; BC $39.95 Speculative - Maxxium Canada; ON $34.95; QC $39.00
UPC: 73209945109
Producer: Byron Vineyard and Winery
Distributor: Maxxium Canada

93/100 Byron Chardonnay Sierra Madre Vineyard 1999
Santa Maria Valley, Santa Barbara County, Central Coast, California, United States
The Sierra Madre vineyard is a further 10 kilometres west of the Byron vineyard making it one of California's coolest vineyard sites. Look for intense ripe apple, honey, nectarine and orange aromas with butter and spicy lees. Rich, round and elegant with a slightly oily texture but great acidity and balance. Buttery, spicy lees, mineral and mango flavours are completed by a long, intense citrus creamy finish. Very Santa Barbara.
Tasted: 2003-01-29 by AG-ST
Prices: BC $55.95 Speculative - Maxxium
Producer: Byron Vineyard and Winery
Distributor: Maxxium Canada

88/100 Hangtime Chardonnay 2000
Santa Maria Valley, Santa Barbara County, Central Coast, California, United States
Light lees, melon, butter citrus aromas with a touch of mango. Nice buttery, citrus, melon and mango flavours with an apple, mineral, slightly oily finish. Well made and reflects the Santa Maria appellation.
Tasted: 2003-01-29 by AG-ST
Prices: BC $24.99
UPC: 732099000134
Producer: Byron Vineyard and Winery
Distributor: Maxxium Canada
 
91/100 Arrowood Chardonnay 2000
Sonoma County, California, United States
Green apple, mineral, citrus and butterscotch aromas with a hint of spicy lees. Very elegant and round with a slightly oily texture. Buttery, apple, nutty buttery lees flavours. Sophisticated, suave and definitely a threat to Burgundy.
Tasted: 2003-01-29 by AG-ST
Prices: BC $46.99 Specialty
CSPC: 010298
Producer: Arrowood Vineyards & Winery
Distributor: Maxxium Canada

90/100 La Crema Chardonnay 2001
Sonoma Coast, Sonoma County, California, United States
La Crema is easily one of the best chardonnay producers in California and its latest effort the 2001 is no exception. Look for an open creamy lees, pear, peach and baked apple nose that is very sophisticated with a touch of butterscotch. On the palate you pick up more spicy lees, pear, green apple and citrus with butter. Lovely balance and weight with an oily texture. A sort of New-Age Burgundy style for California. Great value.
Tasted: 2003-01-18 by AG-ST
Prices: BC $32.95 Speculative
CSPC: 366948;   UPC: 049331002222
Producer: La Crema
Distributor: Renaissance Wine Merchants

90/100 Gloria Ferrer Chardonnay 2000
Carneros, Sonoma County, California, United States
There something about Carneros chardonnay that leaves me wanting more. Look for enticing hazelnuts and spice with pear aromas everywhere. There's lots of citrus notes up front with green apple fruit in behind. You'll love the delicious creamy textures and nutty finish. This is as good as it gets for the money from California especially at $35. If it was Puligny Montrachet you would be lucky to buy similar quality at $75.
Tasted: 2002-12-05 by AG
Prices: BC $34.95 Speculative - Vinterra Wine Merchants
CSPC: 000109;   UPC: 033293115007
Producer: Gloria Ferrer Wine Company
Distributor: Vinterra Wine Merchants
 
86/100 Ernest & Julio Gallo Chardonnay Two Rock Vineyard 2000
Sonoma Coast, Sonoma County, California, United States
Floral citrus aromas with garlic SO2 and lees. Lean lemony. Green apple citrus fruit flavours cling to a fairly skinny body. The finish is similarly lean and crisp with little extract. More Macon-like than Sonoma. The skinny nature of this wine will surprise the buyer looking for classic California chardonnay.
Tasted: 2002-12-05 by AG
Prices: AB $30.99; BC $34.99 Specialty
UPC: 085000201060
Producer: Ernest & Julio Gallo Wines
Distributor: E.&J. Gallo Winery Canada, Ltd.
 

88/100 Ernest & Julio Gallo Chardonnay Laguna Vineyard 1998
Russian River, Sonoma County, California, United States
Advanced nose showing signs of over maturation. Lees and garlic mark the nose with a creamy nutty citrus component underneath. Lots of citrus nutty lees and a firm streak of acidity throughout. It goes in round and creamy and finishes with a spicy lees, bruised apple and acid finish. Drink in the next six months.
Tasted: 2002-12-05 by AG
Prices: AB $30.95; BC $34.99 Specialty; ON $34.95
CSPC: 544981;   UPC: 085000983096
Producer: Ernest & Julio Gallo Wines
Distributor: E.&J. Gallo Winery Canada, Ltd.

93/100 Ernest & Julio Gallo Estate Chardonnay 1998
Northern Sonoma, Sonoma County, California, United States
Gallo's "estate" chardonnay has been good from the beginning and remains so. Look for a big ripe, tropical fruit, mango/citrus and nutty lees nose that jump out of the glass. Intense flavours of pineapple and citrus peel with complex mineral notes underneath and a hazelnut finish. Impressive styling, excellent crisp style and a broader palate. Wonderful wine.
Tasted: 2002-12-05 by AG
Prices: AB $61.99; BC $69.99 Specialty; ON $69.95
CSPC: 334961;   UPC: 085000986837
Producer: Ernest & Julio Gallo Wines
Distributor: E.&J. Gallo Winery Canada, Ltd.

89/100 Arrowood Grand Archer Chardonnay 2001
Sonoma County, California, United States
Pale colour. Big pear apple buttery lees nose with citrus floral undertones. Sophisticated styling here with a round soft entry and creamy textures. Lovely buttery citrus fruit with fried apple flavours and some honey in the background. Elegant styling. Ready to drink.
Tasted: 2002-12-05 by AG
Prices: BC $37.50 Private Wine Stores
UPC: 009385110007
Producer: Arrowood Vineyards & Winery
Distributor: Maxxium Canada

91/100 Arrowood Chardonnay Cuvée Michel Berthoud 2000
Sonoma County, California, United States
Made from select vineyards and all barrel fermented fruit this top-of-the-line chardonnay has a honey/floral/citrus nose with spicy toasted lees in the background. The flavours span buttery fruit with more apple and nectarine flecks in the finish. Toasted oak flavours mark the elegant but short finish. New-Age California burgundy but don't tell EU officials
Tasted: 2002-12-05 by AG
Prices: BC $37.50 Private Wine Stores
UPC: 009385109001
Producer: Arrowood Vineyards & Winery
Distributor: Maxxium Canada