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The death of Robert Mondavi last week effectively marks the end of the modern era of wine as I see it.
Mondavi was one of four children born to Cesare and Rosa Mondavi in Virginia, Minn., in 1913 but his California connection began soon after in 1919.
His father was chosen by the local Italian community to go to California (during Prohibition) to buy grapes so the Minnesota community could make wine for their own consumption. By 1923 Cesare and Rosa Mondavi had moved to Lodi, California. Ten years later they were fully immersed in the bulk wine business. Around that time, Robert attended Stanford University and shortly after entered the wine business with his father.
The long trail led to the Charles Krug winery in Napa Valley but, after a major difference of opinion, Robert split with his brother and the family and struck out to build his own winery on bucolic Highway 29, Napa Valley. The year was 1965. At 53, Mondavi opened the now famous mission-style Oakville winery and the modern-day wine world was never the same again.
By the mid 1970s Mondavi was turning his attention to exports and Vancouver became a key training ground for the winery to cut its export teeth. From winemaker diners at the Four Seasons Hotel to headlining the first Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival, Robert Mondavi became the ultimate crusader for New World wine.
Mondavi's was hardly a perfect life. A great deal of family turmoil found its way into the media but when it comes to California, then Napa Valley, then Robert Mondavi wines, no other vintner has managed to inspire wine drinkers quite like Robert.
On his 90th birthday, Robert Mondavi was honoured by the Oakville Growers Associations, a collection of mostly wealthy wine growers who owe a great deal of their success to Robert's drive and vision. After cutting the cake and politely accepting their kudos Robert proceeded to blast the group, suggesting they were getting soft and that the rest of the wine world was breathing down California's neck. If they were to remain world leaders they would have to work more, not less, in the coming years.
That was Robert. Even when his food-friendly, elegant wines were being spurned by the Wine Spectator and Robert Parker, neither known for their ability to appreciate finesse, Mondavi remained undaunted. For Robert Mondavi, food, wine, music and the arts were all part of a bigger palette and he couldn't wait to paint a picture with them every day.
Today we turn to a group of Argentine wines, many of which are a part of a May promotion in BC Liquor stores. Interestingly all of them are indirectly linked to the Mondavi effect. Nicolas Catena was a visiting professor at U.C. Davis when he first came across the Robert Mondavi winery in Napa Valley. Catena returned home to Mendoza determined to reshape his winery following Robert's passionate recipe for quality. Today the wineries of Mendoza lead a parade of international producers breathing down the necks of California's winegrowers.
The Argentine version of gewürztraminer, dialled up a notch, Torrontés and the Quara Torrontés 2007 from Cafayate, Salta is a beauty. Expect huge spicy, floral, lemon oil, marzipan, nectarine aromas with a round and moderately dry palate. More lemon oil, orange, ginger, spicy, mineral flavours coat the palate. Consider serving it with Indian food like a vindaloo or korma. Only available at Everything Wine in North Vancouver and in Langford on Vancouver Island.
Pinot gris/grigio in Argentina makes sense given the all Italians in Mendoza but Bodega Lurton Pinot Gris 2007 is made by the French connection Jacques and Francois Lurton. Plenty of mineral, nectarine aromas make up its super crisp and dry palate that calls for oysters, clams or perhaps sushi. Very fine value at less than $13.
Nieto Senetiner Cabernet Shiraz Reserva 2005 has a spicy, meaty, floral, savoury, black cherry, plum, cardamom, smoky nose with similar floral, plum, vanilla mocha, tobacco, meaty flavours. Warm and fresh with some light tannin on the finish. It is best served with beef.
There isn't too much "Misterio" about the Finca Flichman Misterio Malbec Oak Aged 2007. Soft round and definitely ripe it's a drier version of yellow tail with earthy, black fruit flavours. The finish is spicy and dry with a small amount of rustic tannins. A solid hamburger /barbecued ribs red at an affordable price.
Catena's insistence on less new oak and a multitude malbec vineyards and clones has created a less voluptuous, but a more sophisticated, über cool Catena Malbec 2005. At just over three years old the nose is open and inviting with a mix of savoury black fruit and licorice streaked with bits of chocolate, orange and bay leaf. A stylish red wine you can drink now or age through 2015.
Finally not all malbec is 100 per cent varietal. Norton Privada Estate Reserve 2003, a Bordeaux blend Argentine style, mixes almost equally malbec, cabernet sauvignon and merlot. The origins of this bottling were small amounts of wine that never used to leave the property. It's quite a big red with a smoky, tarry, liquorice nose. The palate is smooth and round with subdued black fruit, red plum flavours and more earthy, liquorice notes. A well made, food friendly red.
QUARA TORRONTÉS 2007
Price: $13.00
UPC: 021893794661
Score: 88/100
Remarks: Try with Indian food like a Vindaloo or korma.
BODEGA LURTON PINOT GRIS 2007
Price: $12.50
UPC: 00635335320211
Score: 87/100
Remarks: Very fine value at less than $13.
NIETO SENETINER CABERNET SHIRAZ RESERVA 2005
Price: $16
UPC: 07793440701844
Score: 87/100
Remarks: Smoky, resin, floral, plum, vanilla mocha, tobacco, meaty flavours.
FINCA FLICHMAN MISTERIO MALBEC OAK AGED 2007
Price: $14
UPC: 7790470083094
Score: 86/100
Remarks: A solid hamburger /barbecued ribs red at an affordable price.
CATENA MALBEC 2005
Price: $23
UPC: 00089046444030
Score: 90/100
Remarks: A stylish malbec you can drink now or age through 2015.
NORTON PRIVADA ESTATE RESERVE 2003
Price: $25
UPC: 07792319678027
Score: 89/100
Remarks: Subdued black fruit, red plum flavours and earthy, liquorice
