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Premiere Napa Valley -- the annual trade auction of the Napa Valley Vintners -- offered a glimpse recently into the slowly recovering American wine market.
It's not all rosy in the wine valley Robert Mondavi built, but a late auction bid of $125,000 for five cases of Scarecrow Cabernet Sauvignon goes a long way to suggest Napa Valley is on its way back.
Napa's busy vintners hold two major auctions a year. The summer affair raises millions of dollars for a plethora of valley initiatives from improvements in health care, clinics and hospitals to aid for troubled youth and the indigent of the region.
The spring PNV auction involves trade buyers only from around the world and the funds raised from the wine lots donated by members are used to promote the business of the Napa Valley Vintners association.
The auction netted $2.4 million US in a single afternoon.
B.C. was ably represented by Bearfoot Bistro restaurateur Andre St. Jacques, who successfully purchased six separate lots of wine well in excess of $60,000 US.
Interestingly, Canada is now the No. 1 export market for California wine. While Ontario and Quebec are capturing plenty of attention, British Columbians are still drinking twice as much California wine per capita over our eastern counterparts.
During my week in the valley, I noted an increased emphasis on growing mountain or hillside fruit. The theory is fruit grown high on the hillsides compared with those vines on the rich soils of the valley floor is making better wines.
No matter what its origin, Cabernet Sauvignon remains the Holy Grail of Napa Valley grapes and it only appears to be becoming more important. Throughout the various replantings and pullouts across the valley, cabernet has solidified its position as the money maker.
Better clones, better rootstock, a better understanding of the grape's orientation to the sun are just part of the improvements that have resulted in the one-dimensional, hulking, Napa cabernet of the '70s and '80s go the way the of Dodo.
The textures are softer and the wine is much more approachable (read drinkable) at a young age. Similarly, better ripeness gives the wine a richer mouth-feel and pushes its green, bell-pepper flavours into the background.
The subtle changes in blending, the development of appellations, the obsession with French oak and French coopers all point to a valley seemingly mesmerized by the status accorded the icon of cabernet wines, French Bordeaux.
Yet, what many would rightly describe as varietal cabernet sauvignon wine often contains small amounts of various other red "Bordeaux" grapes including Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and/or Petit Verdot.
In preparation for Friday's Arts Club California Wine Fair (see details on this page) we explore the latest in Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon in government wine shops.
Caymus Special Selection Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 is one of California's original cult wines has come down in price and the quality is better than ever. Expect the typical rich, blackberry jam, cassis flavours but with a dose of savoury cedar, tobacco, smoke and spice but with finesse and ripeness with better yet balance. Drinkable now but should age three-10 years. Steaks anyone?
The regular Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 is a Napa classic. The style is on the edge of over the top rich with a whack of vanilla, blackberry jam, cassis, liquorice and blueberry flavours. Round, full, supple, smooth and very easy to sip, this is a California crowd pleaser on the palate.
Less is more with the Signorello Cabernet Sauvignon 2006. Less obvious fruit versus more structure and acidity prepares the Signorello Cabernet for extended aging. The nose is tight with dark plum fruit, cassis and youthful lashings of vanilla and coffee. The entry is firm and somewhat linear with black fruit flavours, coffee beans and a bit of pencil lead. Best to send this one to the cellar through 2014, then serve it with roasted or grilled meats. A solid Napa Cabernet in the Euro style.
Carneros is home to almost all Napa Chardonnay that counts and the Signorello Chardonnay Vielles Vignes 2008 is one of them. Winemaker Pierre Birebent employs minimal winemaking for maximum effect. Look for lemon, guava, spicy pear and green apple, peach aromas mixed with baked apple, honey, guava, nutty lees, lemon butter and clove flavours. Halibut in a beurre blanc is the choice here.
Starmont Chardonnay 2008 is a stand-alone brand owned by Merryvale Winery that comes off three relatively cool Napa Valley vineyard sites. The fruit is whole cluster pressed before its 50-50 mix of stainless steel fermented and barrel fermented fruit is aged a mere eight months in only 15-per-cent new oak. It's a less-is-more Chardonnay from Napa swimming in bright pear/ apple/nectarine fruit and it is a great addition to any wine list or evening at home. Roasted chicken stuffed with onions and rosemary would be an ideal match.
The Avalon Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 is a nice improvement on the previous year, with a much riper personality and no green notes. The nose is still peppery and fresh with bright blackberry and tobacco aromas. The palate is smooth and well-structured with ripe Christmas cake, blackberry, cassis flavours with some spicy fresh black olive notes on the finish. Solid Napa at an attractive price.
NAPA PICKS
Caymus Special Selection Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, Napa Valley, California, United States
Price $125
UPC 0017224720102
Score 94/100
Remarks Big rich showy Napa cabernet with blackberry jam, cassis, vanilla and tobacco.
Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, Napa Valley, California, United States
Price $69.00
UPC 017224710103
Score 90/100
Remarks Good finesse and intensity for consumers who like cabernet with style.
Signorello Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, Napa Valley, California, United States
Price $75.00
UPC 00752183057769
Score 91/100
Remarks Less obvious fruit more structure and acidity. Excellent with food.
Signorello Chardonnay Vielles Vignes 2008, Napa Valley, California, United States
Price $55.00
UPC 00752183488570
Score 91/100
Remarks Baked apple, honey, guava, nutty lees, spicy, waxy, lemon butter, clove flavours.
Starmont Chardonnay 2008, Napa Valley, California, United States
Price $30.00
UPC 04026992312
Score 90/100
Remarks A less is more chardonnay from Napa swimming in pear/apple/nectarine fruit.
Avalon Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, Napa Valley, California, United States
Price $25.00
UPC 00851718000024
Score 89/100
Remarks Solid Napa at a very attractive price
