More Syrah or Is That Shiraz?

You would think that any wine selling for more than $20 would fit at least the quality part of our quest but similar to last week's results (that featured some 18 labels under $20) today's findings are just as varied.

Clearly paying more at the cash register for shiraz does not always mean you will get a better wine.

Last week I pointed the finger at new plantings and young vines as the culprit behind many of the thin, acidic examples that cross our tasting table with too much regularity.

Today, I would add another key factor affecting the quality of modern day shiraz (and most every other wine you buy) ― the 'reserve' factor.

The growth of so-called reserve wines and super-elite labels usually mean a winery's everyday labels are robbed of the best fruit and more than likely filled up with young vines and a lot of second-rate juice.

You don't pay any less for the ordinary bottles in fact most are selling at all time highs, but you do pay a hefty premium to experience the 'reserves', a mostly unlegislated wine term that in my experience means the wine is 'reserved' for you to pay more money.

The good news is you can skip a lot of the junk by paying attention to this page each week where after pre-sorting through the average and the medium we only present the best.

As mentioned, today's picks begin at $20 with one very deserving exception. The latest version of the Casillero del Diablo Shiraz 2004, has arrived from Chile and like its predecessors, it delivers extreme value for money. The taste is an agreeable cherry, blackberry fruit flavour laced with a gamey, chocolate spicy, licorice tones and a texture that is appealing smooth.

At $13, it's impossible to beat the value here. My only disappointment is the decision by the winery (no doubt encouraged by insecure North American importers) to change the label from syrah to shiraz. In my view, the Oz association is not necessary and given the current taste profile of $13 shiraz from Down Under, it could be harmful.

Vasse Felix Adam's Road Shiraz 2003 takes us a step up to Margaret River in Western Australia. Look for more pepper and spice to be mixed with vanilla, jasmine and chocolate pudding aromas. There is a modicum of black fruit but the finish is dry and acidic as has become the norm with so many Down Under examples.

The Barossa valley is home to Grant Burge Miamba Shiraz 2003. We like the rich, blackberry jam and smoky, spicy, floral, gamey aromas and the big black cherry jam, cardamom, chocolate espresso, cedar and mint flavours. Still a bit tight but otherwise solid and will improve in the bottle.

Hats off to winemaker Howard Soon, and south Okanagan grape grower Dick Cleave for a terrific Sandhill Syrah 2003 Small Lots Program from Phantom Creek Vineyard.

This is one of handful of local syrah showing early flashes of brilliance. The nose mixes roasted pepper, tomato leaf and smoky-oak notes with vanilla, prune and black cherry tones. It's round and supple on entry with fine spicy, vanilla, smoky oak and peppery, pudding, black cherry and anise flavours. Good ripeness and balance if a touch alcoholic. Drinkable now but should improve in bottle for a year or two. Bravo B.C.

The future is now for the Peter Lehmann The Futures Shiraz 2002 from the Barossa Valley. Smoky, peppery, sweet vanilla notes mix with spicy Christmas pudding, blackberry jam and cardamom. Big and smooth in the glass with just a touch of acidity and oak on the finish.

My final pick is the boisterous peppery, gamey, barnyard scented Jim Barry The Lodge Hill Shiraz 2003 from the Clare Valley. We love the supple demeanour here not to mention the black cherry, pepper, mint, licorice and chocolate pudding flavours. It has very fine intensity with just a hint of acidity on the finish. Would be ideal for barbecue grilled lamb chops.

Weekend Wine Tasting: Syrah/Shiraz

Wine Casillero del Diablo Shiraz 2004, Region del Valle Central, Chile

Price  $12.95

UPC   7804320510170

Score 87/100

Remarks    Ripe cherries, blackberry fruit, spice and licorice flavours.

Wine Vasse Felix Adam's Road Shiraz 2003, Margaret River, Western Australia

Price  $22.99

UPC   089208400379

Score 86/100

Remarks    Vanilla, cardamom, black cherry, mineral, licorice flavours.

Wine Grant Burge Miamba Shiraz 2003, Barossa Valley, South Australia

Price  $29.95

UPC   738986010101

Score 89/100

Remarks    Smoky vanilla, chocolate espresso and black fruit.

Wine Sandhill Syrah Small Lots Program Phantom Creek Vineyard 2003, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

Price  $29.99

UPC   058976320615

Score 89/100

Remarks    Supple OK Syrah with pepper, pudding and black cherry fruit.

Wine Peter Lehmann The Futures Shiraz 2002, Barossa Valley, South Australia

Price  $28.99

UPC   032726001870

Score 88/100

Remarks    The 'futures" is now for this opulent, spicy, sweet red.

Wine Jim Barry The Lodge Hill Shiraz 2003, Clare Valley, South Australia

Price  $28.99

UPC   9314487457013

Score 89/100

Remarks    Meaty, barnyard syrah aromas with black olives and blackberry notes.