More Summer Sippers

Consumer and Business Services Minister Jim Watson says: "Bringing your own bottle of wine to a licensed restaurant signals that positive change is happening here in Ontario."

At the same time, the government wants to allow Ontarians to take home the unfinished portions of bottles that they brought or ordered as part of their meal.

"These liquor licence reforms, balanced with strengthened enforcement, would represent a coming of age for Ontario," said Watson. "By giving consumers and restaurateurs more choice, and by enacting measures to increase public safety, we are building a strong, safe and prosperous Ontario with a quality of life that is second to none."

The truth is the program will be voluntary -- that means some restaurants will embrace BYOB, but others, presumably those with hundreds of thousands of dollars already invested in wine purchased from the government-controlled monopoly, will shun the idea of customers arriving with their favourite $10 wine.

My guess is BYOB is a bone thrown to the Ontario wineries and a growing number of imported wine producers who can't get any wine listed in the province's government-run stores. All of Canada's liquor monopolies are under pressure to produce a real profit, not just the tax they collect, and only the biggest wine producers in the world can help them do that. One-off family wineries are simply too small and take up too much time for the government-run stores to bother with, hence the BYOB option.

Early reaction is probably just what the provincial liquor board was looking for.

"I'm all for allowing customers the option to bring their own wine into our restaurant for a corkage fee," said Steve Beckta, sommelier-owner of Ottawa's Beckta Dining and Wine.

"The practice allows people to dine out more often and with greater flexibility. Having worked as a sommelier and restaurant manager in New York, I know first-hand that this can be beneficial to both guests and restaurants alike. That is why I am a firm supporter of this initiative."

Consumers are all for choice too -- the choice to buy their wine from whomever they want, wherever they want and whenever they want. No amount of pseudo-privatization or initiatives like BYOB can make that happen.

Today, we continue our early summer mixed-pick theme, beginning with a fun bottle of Italian sparkling wine that comes without a cork. The Mionetto Il Prosecco Frizzante comes with an easy-to-pop-off crown cap. The package is gorgeous, including the unusual bottle shape. The nose is an inviting mix of rose petal/peach, mineral and apple skin nose. It is dry, fresh and full of apple, mineral, floral, green peach and cashew flavours. Perfectly balanced, you can sip this with or without food. Great value.

Yet another fun screwcap is the Lindemans Bin 75 Riesling 2002. There's nothing complicated about this easy-to-sip peachy floral petrol/mineral-scented riesling with streaks of green apple skin on the nose. On the palate, the flavours are a mix of lime, baked green apple, peach and mineral. The finish is slightly sweet and round, but it is fresh and crisp. A killer summer patio wine, and we love the price.

Still in Oz and still with riesling, I can't say enough about the refreshing Wynns Coonawarra Estate Riesling 2003. The nose is a riot of mineral, citrus rind, green apple and mango aromas with an undercurrent of honey/floral notes. There are more of those fresh, mineral, spicy green apple, lime flavours and a smoky slate, grapefruit rind finish. It has style and can be served with a wide variety of spicy foods.

Saltspring Island is the home of Garry Oaks Pinot Noir Estate 2002 (look for the word "Estate" on the label to be sure the grapes are grown on Saltspring). It has the requisite earthy, Worcestershire sauce nose streaked with black cherries, smoky rhubarb and leather. It's round in the mouth but fairly acidic with sour cherry, smoky, rootsy flavours and just a touch of that sweet pinot character. A solid start.

Jeff Martin continues to develop his brand in Naramata, although restaurants or the winery will be the only place you can find the La Frenz Shiraz 2002. The nose is big, featuring pepper, licorice root and rhubarb mixed with resin and vanilla highlights; the flavours mix smoky vanilla and licorice root with black cherry jam. There are some light tannins in the finish, but it should all come together over the next two years. Well done.

The people's choice brand has a new cabernet vintage. The Yellow Tail Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 has a cool minty, chocolate, earthy, clove demeanour with a touch of black cherry. It's typically smooth and easy-sipping, with a finish that's noticeably sweet-ish. Lots of coffee, mocha, vanilla and sweet cassis flavours with a dash of pepper make it especially appealing to most.

Weekend Wine Picks

Wine   Mionetto Il Prosecco Frizzante N/V, Veneto, Italy
Price    $16.99
UPC    8006220001911
Score   15.0/20
Remarks         Dry, fresh, elegant sparkler with apple, mineral, floral and cashew flavours.

Wine   Lindemans Bin 75 Riesling 2002, South Eastern Australia, Australia
Price    $10.99
UPC    012354087804
Score   14.0/20
Remarks         Slightly sweet and round yet fresh and crisp. A perfect patio sipper.

Wine   Wynns Coonawarra Estate Riesling 2003, Coonawarra, South Australia, Australia
Price    $14.99
UPC    012354052109
Score   15.0/20
Remarks         Fresh, style with mineral, green apple, lime and grapefruit rind flavours.

Wine   Garry Oaks Pinot Noir Estate 2002, Salt Spring Island, British Columbia, Canada
Price    $24.95
UPC    626990029021
Score   14.0/20
Remarks         Sour cherry, smoky, earthy forest floor pinot character.

Wine   La Frenz Shiraz 2002, Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
Price    $25.00
Score   15.0/20
Remarks         Rich, smooth and warm smoky vanilla, licorice root and black cherry jam.

Wine   Yellow Tail Cabernet Sauvignon 2003, South Eastern Australia, Australia
Price    $12.99
UPC    9322214007806
Score   14.0/20
Remarks         Minty, chocolate, black cherry, mocha and sweet cassis. The people's choice.