More Holiday Picks

Readers I hear from are generally split on what an inexpensive wine is. For some it has to be under $10, others will spend up to $12 and, in some cases, it could mean anything under $15.

They are even less certain about what the origin of the wine needs to be and, surprisingly, colour -- as in not necessarily red -- ranks behind what they really want, which is a smooth-tasting, no-sharp-edges wine.

Clearly, soft textures are the name of the game in the '00s, although I would caution everyone to seek out wines that are supple as a result of being in balance; that is, wine whose fruit, acid and tannin are perfectly matched, as opposed to the super warm, high-alcohol samples that appear smooth on your tongue in the same manner that a smooth Scotch or Bourbon might coat your palate.

We begin our search with three bottles that say a lot about the current state of white wine making.

Fresh is a word I use more and more as the heavily oaked whites of yesterday fade into oblivion. Citrus fruit flavours, mineral and a touch of yeasty lees (warm bread dough aromas) are all the rage. They also characterize wines you can drink with food.

First up is a new listing that is likely to appear at many parties this winter because it tastes delicious and the price is an astounding $8.99. Obikwa Sauvignon Blanc 2003 hails from the Western Cape region of South Africa and its colourful green label will be hard to miss.

Kiwi, passion fruit aromas with a touch of bell pepper and jalapeno make this sauvignon jump out of the glass. It's simple, soft and round with similar fresh citrus flavours and a clean finish. Absolutely good value in an easy-sipping wine you can serve with most light seafood appetizers.

If you require further proof that there's a white wine renaissance afoot check out a new Wolf Blass product that is far removed from the old oak-soup affairs that were a signature of the famous Barossa winery.

Eaglehawk Chardonnay 2003 is the Blass foray into the highly competitive low end of the market. Expect a green apple skin, floral, citrus rind nose with an attractive spicy, honey edge. The styling is rich and round with fine weight and balance and more spicy honey, vanilla, butter tones streaked with flavours of citrus and baked apple. A perfect introduction to chardonnay with only a modicum of oak in the background.

The Yalumba Viognier Y Series 2003 makes yet another appearance in these pages. Since it first arrived in B.C. in 1998 it has been a best-value selection for viognier, and the '03 is no exception; in fact, it maybe the best yet from Yalumba.

Look for a highly expressive nose of citrus apricot, honeysuckle and orange spice. Fresh and mouth-filling, its rich, tropical fruit flavours finish smooth and long. Spicy barbecued chicken would be a perfect match.

Where there's white there's red and, in the case of the Obikwa sauvignon, there is the matching Obikwa Shiraz 2002. Look for a smoky, gamy, black cherry and black pepper aroma in the glass. Soft, round, supple wine with smoky black cherry, spicy licorice gamy flavours. A bit sweet, but tasty, and most will appreciate the value for money here.

Aurelio Montes is the dean of Chilean wine consultants and his Montes Cabernet Sauvignon Oak Aged 2001 is a testament to his skills and vision. The nose is an attractive mix of spicy, peppery, cassis-fruit, barnyard and smoky leather aromas. The textures are smooth, the entry warm with good smoky, cassis and peppery, chocolate flavours. Fine concentration and balance and very good value.

We finish with one of my favourite new every-day red wines: Castaño Hecula 2001. This Spanish star is made from 100-per-cent monastrell (mataro or mourvèdre) fruit that grows on 40-year-old, dry-farmed vines. There's no fining, no filtering, as evidenced by its excellent dark red colour. Lovely plum jam and earthy notes mark the nose along with rich, peppery, savoury fruit flavours in the mouth. The finish is dry and smoky with a touch of garrigue that demands food. Anything grilled will work here and party goers will love it. Good value.

WEEKEND WINE TASTING: HOLIDAY ENTERTAINING WINES

Wine: Obikwa Sauvignon Blanc 2003, Western Cape, South Africa
Price: $8.99
UPC: 6001108004031
Score: 14/20
Comments: Passion fruit and jalapeno notes in a fresh, citrus style.

Wine: Eaglehawk Chardonnay 2003, South Eastern Australia, Australia
Price: $12.99
UPC: 98137334433
Score: 15.5/20
Comments: Honey, vanilla, citrus butter and baked apples.

Wine: Yalumba Viognier Y Series 2003, Barossa Valley, Australia
Price: $17.99
UPC: 9311789475974
Score: 16.5/20
Comments: Citrus apricot, honeysuckle and orange spice; perfect with spicy dishes.

Wine: Obikwa Shiraz 2002, Western Cape, South Africa
Price: $9.49
UPC: 6001108004079
Score: 14/20
Comments: weet, smoky, sipping red with saddle leather and black cherry fruit.

Wine: Montes Cabernet Sauvignon Oak Aged 2001, Valle del Curicó, Chile
Price: $14.95
UPC: 715126600017
Score: 14.5/20
Comments: Cassis, peppery, chocolate flavours and fine concentration.

Wine: Castaño Hecula 2001, Yecla, Spain
Price: $15.95
UPC: 8422443001802
Score: 15.5/20
Comments: Plum jam, savoury fruit flavours.