Montebello - A Ridge Too Far

Liquor stores, so if you are an early riser do not be startled by the crowds queuing (hopefully peacefully) in front of some of the busiest wine stores in the province. By all accounts the 2005 vintage is the real thing and for collectors with the means to acquire a few bottles and the patience to wait for it to mature -- say a minimum 10 years -- buy all you can carry.

The Branch has put together a booklet you can pick up in stores, or check out online at http://www.bcliquorstores.com/en/instorepromotions/bodeaux-2005 with reviews of almost all the wines for sale. You won't see any local reviews because most of the wines were purchased direct by the BCLDB and while they are the largest distributor/retailer of Bordeaux in B.C. (at least one day a year) they never make any wines available to local writers to assess. The Bordelais don't seem to care either.

I can't remember the last time major chateau owner came to Vancouver to market his or her wines. I'm afraid at this late date you will have to settle for the views of Mr. Parker or the Wine Spectator. Whoever scored the wine the highest has their review in the guide. Most would agree it was almost impossible to make a poor wine in Bordeaux in 2005, but we know from experience not all wines are created equal. Doors open at 9:30 a.m.

Speaking of great wine, while the crowd goes crazy in the Bordeaux section, I suggest you look for the California signs and stock up some very impressive new releases from Ridge Vineyards.

Ridge was built in 1886 in the Santa Cruz Mountains above Palo Alto, not long after the famous Bordeaux classification of 1855 and released its first vintage in 1892. It was another 60 plus years before it really came to prominence thanks to a bunch of bright guys from Stanford who bought the property in 1959. By the late '60s, Paul Draper, a Stanford philosophy grad, an old Bordeaux disciple and aspiring winemaker with no formal oenological training, joined the group and an American icon wine was born.

The ridge at Ridge is unique, according to Draper. "Its fractured limestone was laid down on the Pacific plate south of the equator 100 million years ago and came back up on the Pacific plate against the North American plate." Draper says "the geologists call it an exotic terrain because it has nothing to do with the terrain of the local neighbourhood." The altitude at Montebello soars to almost 2,800 feet and the climate is definitely cool by day and cold at night. I could go on and on, but it is the wines you need to taste.

We begin with the Ridge Santa Cruz Mountain Estate Chardonnay 2006. At Ridge, the Santa Cruz Mountains appellation speaks to fruit grown on its famous Monte Bello Ridge. The nose is a delight of tropical fruit notes. The palate is lengthy yet elegant with bright notes of honey, citrus, spicy lees, guava, orange and mineral and baked apple. Drink now.

The Ridge Three Valleys Zinfandel 2006 is the only Ridge wine blended from multiple vineyards; the philosophy is to bottle the most appealing lots that are readily accessible. Most of the fruit comes off younger vines at Lytton while bits are gleaned from older vines grown in the Alexander Valley and Russian River valleys. You will love its black cherry, coffee, orange peel and vanilla flavours. This is seriously delicious zinfandel.

Forty-one vintages later, Ridge Geyserville 2006 remains a beacon for single-site zinfandel. The nose is a peppery mix of bramble berry jam and meaty liquorice notes. The attack is ripe and warm with plenty of big juicy black cherry jam, bramble berry fruit, orange peel and coffee flavours. Drink or cellar this one.

Ridge Lytton Springs Zinfandel 2006 entices with its spicy, black berry jam aromas bruised with chocolate and licorice. The palate is fresh with fine density and layers of peppery, liquorice, black cherry, plum and coffee/cedar flavours. You should age this for two to four years for best results. At Lytton east, the zinfandel averages 100 years old.

Wow, how slick is the Ridge Santa Cruz Mountain Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2005. The 58/42 mix of cabernet and merlot offers ripe black cherry, peppery, tobacco and black olive notes flecked with vanilla, coriander and coffee. Fine structure and acidity with a floral mineral undertone in the finish. Fine value and well worth laying away for three to five years.

Ridge Montebello Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 is the original California icon red and it's better than ever in 2005. The colour is opaque. The nose is a mix of pepper black cherry jam, cassis and liquorice with floral, tobacco, and smoky, leather notes.

The flavours are intense yet elegant with spicy, cedar, liquorice, cassis jam, black berry, tobacco, earth and black olives. The finish is long with a coffee, vanilla, waxy note and fine acidity.

Eat your heart out, Bordeaux.

Price: $55

UPC: 744442479009

Score: 90/100

Remarks: A delight of pineapple, peach and pear with bits of vanilla.

RIDGE THREE VALLEYS 2006, SONOMA COUNTY, CALIFORNIA

Price: $35

UPC: 744442081004

Score: 89/100

Remarks: Just try to stop drinking this gem with its fine fruit and style.

RIDGE GEYSERVILLE 2006, SONOMA COUNTY, CALIFORNIA

Price: $50

UPC: 744442301003

Score: 91/100

Remarks: Forty-one vintages later Geyserville remains a beacon for single-site zinfandel.

RIDGE LYTTON SPRINGS ZINFANDEL 2006, SONOMA COUNTY, CALIFORNIA

Price: $50.00

UPC: 744442901005

Score: 90/100

Remarks: Fine concentration if slightly alcoholic, but why quibble with such bright fruit.

RIDGE SANTA CRUZ MOUNTAIN ESTATE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2005, SANTA CRUZ MOUNTAINS, CALIFORNIA

Price: $55

UPC: 00744442271009

Score: 90/100

Remarks: Wow, what a slick wine. Ripe black cherries flecked with vanilla.

MONTEBELLO CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2005, SANTA CRUZ MOUNTAINS, CALIFORNIA

Price: $160

UPC: 744442101009

Score: 94/100

Remarks: Fine acidity and wonderful finesse is the Montebello hallmark.