Mondavi

Famed Napa Valley winery Robert Mondavi was the only producer featured at the first, two-day, two-event show held at Hycroft, The University Women's Club of Vancouver on the edge of Shaughnessy. The first festival was a "component tasting," where one sipped acid, tannin and fruit solutions in plastic cups before you got to taste a finished Mondavi wine or two. Boy, were we keen.

Thirty five years later Michael Mon-davi, the man who conducted that inaugural event and who founded the Robert Mondavi Winery together with his father Robert, returns to Vancouver. Few people remember Michael made wines for the first eight harvests at Robert Mondavi Winery before moving to sales and marketing. After the winery went public in 1994, he served as president, CEO and chairman until he left in 2004 to start Michael Mondavi Family Estate. He will pour his wines this year at a very different festival that has evolved from a one winery, two-night event to a weeklong party with 175 producers from around the world.

The venue has changed too. From the original Hycroft to the Hyatt Regency, then dual sites at the Hyatt Regency and the Hotel Vancouver. You should have seen us crossing the busiest intersection in the city at Burrard and Georgia with our tasting glasses.

By 1988 the festival had moved under the sails of the Vancouver Trade and Convention Centre sharing with VIVA, a local food and drink show. In 1989 flamboyant founding chairman John Levine handed over the reins to ex-BCLDB general manager Robert Wallace, who invited 94 wineries from 10 countries to attend. By year 20, in 1998, 153 wineries from a 18 countries attended and citywide dinners kicked off the festival.

In 2013 The Vancouver Sun is presenting sponsor of the show, which will be held at the Trade and Convention Centre West - and the numbers are off the charts. The Vancouver International Wine Festival runs from Feb. 25 to March 3. This year's theme region features the return of California and the global focus is on Chardonnay - you can expect scores of the favourite varietal to be poured throughout the tasting room from around the world. Organizers expect 175 wineries from 15 countries to pour over 1,800 wines to some 25,000 participants.

What you should taste, where you should visit, and what you should buy? Much of that information, and more, will appear in a special Salut section in next Saturday's Vancouver Sun. We will explore all the wines you shouldn't miss along with some complementary dining options from Sun food writer Mia Stainsby.

In the meantime, you need to get your tickets and decide what to wear. I know West Coast casual should cover it, but you would be surprised what people wear, or in some cases what they don't. Just remember it's a standup, walkabout tasting and there are thousands of people in the room so the darker your outfit the longer it will wear in the evening. The room is massive and just getting to it from transit or the front of the building will have you wondering if those five-inch heels are worth it.

If there is one big "don't" when attending, it is all about scent. You really need to consider not using any, or at the very least using tiny amounts of perfume, cologne, hair products, and well, any major scent that wafts off your person. The majority of the people who paid a hefty $95 to be in that room would rather smell the wine than you.

Now that you are room-ready, be sure to say hello to Michael Mondavi and thank him for his family's foresight and commitment to wine. When you think about it, much of what has transpired in this province concerning wine can be traced back to that first night at Hycroft some 35 years ago, but then wine is always better with age.

Aveleda Casal Garcia Vinho Verde N/V, Portugal

Price      $12

UPC       5601096213333

Score    86/100

Remarks              You will feel a light sparkle (frizzante) in the mouth heightening the freshness of this wine and its lemon flower, honey, green apple, lees aromas. The attack is crisp with pear skin, lemon, lees, quince and apple skin flavours. Delicate, juicy and fresh for any light seafood dish. Continued good value you might consider sipping far more regularly.

Fish Hoek Sauvignon Blanc 2010, Western Cape, South Africa

Price      $15

UPC       6009650560906

Score    86/100

Remarks              Intense gooseberry/grapefruit aromas jump from the glass with a touch of canned asparagus. The attack is bracingly fresh with lime rind, citrus and nettle notes. This is sauvignon with personality which isn't all so bad given its reasonable price. Well balanced. Mussels anyone?

Navarro López Rojo Granrojo Tempranillo 2011, Spain

Price      $12

UPC       008436016350570

Score    85/100

Remarks              Expect a fragrant coffee/cocoa, earthy, peppery nose with ripe cherry aromas. The attack is round, the palate soft with more pepper, cherry jam, prune, earthy, leather flavours. A bit  art and sweet on the finish but otherwise a friendly, easy-sipping barbecue red. Grilled chicken would be a good match.

Fabulous Ant Pinot Noir 2011, Tolna, Hungary

Price      $14

UPC       04002301431404

Score    85/100

Remarks              Fabulous might be stretching it but there is no reason you can't enjoy this light, soft, refreshing red and its smoky, tobacco, raspberry, rhubarb and cedar flavours. Frankly it is more like a gamay than a pinot noir but lightly chilled it is a fine value, mid-week red that will ably perform with light dinner duties.

Clos du Bois North Coast Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, North Coast Region, California,

United States

Price      $18

UPC       087356405123

Score    86/100

Remarks              Cool peppery, cedar, tobacco leaf, roasted bell pepper and cassis nose with flecks of chocolate. The palate is dry with light tannins and more cassis, tobacco leaf, pepper, black olive and cedar flavours. Simple, solid varietal style cabernet that would be bests served with for grilled meat entrées.

M. Chapoutier Domaine de Bila-Haut Rouge 2011, Côtes du Roussillon, France

Price      $15

UPC       03391181381031

Score    88/100

Remarks              Classic floral, liquorice root, savoury, black cherry aromas with bits of smoky herb and spice. The attack is smooth, the palate juicy with plum, black cherry, liquorice, game, smoky savoury flavours. The finish is alcoholic but with excellent fruit, texture and finesse. You can drink this now or over the next two to three years. Continued fine value from this Roussillon red made with bio-dynamically grown fruit.