quicksearch
Anthony Gismondi on Wine

It's been more than a year since Washington closed its state liquor stores.

Modernize Liquor Laws

It's been more than a year since Washington closed its state liquor stores. In a recent Seattle Times editorial the paper suggested liquor privatization in Washington "is working as advertised and the social disaster predicted by supporters of state stores has not happened." British Columbians may want to note the resulting lack of chaos in Washington communities as we once again prepare to modernize our liquor laws. I say that because the "breakdown-ofsociety" card will be played here, as it is every time anyone suggests a change to our liquor regulations.

 

What has happened as a result of Washington state getting out of the business of selling liquor is consumption is up. Those opposed to privatization almost always predict spiralling consumption, not to mention the end of the world, but in fact the Times reported "In the 12 months that ended May 31, state-taxed sales of liquor, including bars and restaurants, were up by less than 1.5 per cent."

 

In a little over a year prices have gone up at retail, again marginally as in $23.87 per litre versus the previous year's $21.07. The paper reported that the trade "paid an average $18.77 in May 2013, up from $18.09 a year earlier." The price jumps are likely connected to tax collected which is up in favour of the state a whopping 9.7 per cent thanks to a built-in increase that was designed to insure the state couldn't lose money, and it hasn't.

 

The Times also reports statewide the number of alcohol-related collisions has declined. But thanks to tighter laws, such as we now have in B.C., drinking-related collisions have been in decline for four years. Also the compliance rate when it comes to checking under-age customers (another red herring for opponents) was approximately 92 per cent, compared with 94 per cent under the state store regime.

I mention all this because in the coming months the same issues and more will be dragged into the planned review of B.C.'s liquor laws. We need new thinking and the challenge will be to try to keep it from devolving into a dog's breakfast of lobbyists, each hoping to improve their sector at the expense of another.

 

We have a history of making bad one-off regulations that lead to more and more, and before you know it we have the current mess. The private wine store sector with its labyrinth of licences and regulations, none of which make any sense to a normal retailer, is a prime example of lobbying gone mad.

 

It began with an ill-conceived idea in 1986 to grant a small number of retail wine store licences to the private sector to sell local wine and cider. No one considered the reach of NAFTA and GATT and the local stores soon included American and European wine, and then wines from the rest of the world. Today we have a mix of rules and licences nobody likes and, given that the government still controls all liquor purchases, there is no privacy for private wine stores. It is nuts.

 

To be clear: The sale of wine, beer and spirits needs to be regulated. British Columbians have been amazingly inventive, creating, producing, importing and selling alcohol under some of the dumbest regulations on the planet. Imagine what could be achieved if we were to clean the slate and create the smartest rules on the continent. It starts with leaving the egos at the door.

 


Lingenfelder Riesling Bird Series 2012, Pfalz, Germany

$19 | 88/100

UPC: 4017974070003

Fresh, floral, plum, nectarine skin aromas jump from the glass. The attack is rich, if a touch soft in acidity with baked apple, honey, citrus flavours and the usual earth and bitterness on the finish to balance the sugar. We like it with Thai noodle rolls and spicy peanut sauce. Good value.

 

Schloss Reinhartshausen Rheingau Riesling Dry 2012, Rheingau, Germany

$18 | 89/100

UPC: 4005055016170

Lovely bright, floral attack with a peachy/orange aroma, a delicate dry mid-palate, and a fine, tangy acidity. This is a very attractive bottle for $18 that displays the both the richness and finesse you can get from well-made German Riesling. Indian, Thai, Chinese, poultry, seafood: it is all possible.

 

Ferrari-Carano Fume Blanc 2012, Sonoma County, California, United States

$25 | 89/100

UPC: 742651123102

One of California's most consistent labels continues its quiet evolution to be a leaner, fresher, more electric style Sauvignon. Citrus flavoured fruit leads a creamy, round textured white with flavours of lemon grass and ripe melon. Food friendly and perfect for a variety of west coast cuisines.

 

La Casona de Castaño Old Vines Monastrell 2012, Yecla, Valencia and Murcia, Spain

$10 | 86/100

UPC: 8422443002519

Exuberant, floral, raspberry/plum fruit nose with a touch of licorice root. The attack is fresh and juicy on the palate with fine middleweight structure and black cherry, chocolate, pepper, mineral flavours. Super value in a mid-week red for burgers, grilled lamb chops and chicken.

 

La Vieille Ferme Côtes du Ventoux Rouge, Rhone Valley, France

$13 | 87/100

UPC: 631470000018

It is scary what you can get from the Rhone for less than $13 in British Columbia. Perrin offers up a peppery version of its latest La Vieille Ferme with hints of ripe black cherries. The attack is soft and round with black raspberry, pepper and licorice root flecked with mineral, spice and orange peels. You can drink this now or hold it for a year or two. The blend is mostly Grenache with small percentages of Syrah, mourvèdre and cinsault. Super value.

 

Cono Sur Organic Pinot Noir 2012, Valle del Colchagua, Chile

$15.50 | 85/100

UPC: 007804320227382

A little less ripeness and a bit more tartness helps this edition of the Con Sur organic Pinot Noir work better with food. The attack is spicy and dry with red fruit flavours, roasted tomato and touch of compost. The texture is mouth filling, like Pinot Noir, with just a hint of warmth (alcohol) in the finish. A steal for the price and a wine you can match with lighter chicken or vegetable dishes. Good value.


Written By: ag
Anthony Gismondi
Anthony Gismondi

Anthony Gismondi is a Canadian wine journalist and one of North America's most influential voices in wine. For over 30 years, he has been the wine columnist for The Vancouver Sun. The twice-weekly column is distributed across Canada through the Postmedia Network to millions of readers. In addition, Anthony hosts the BC Food & Wine Radio Show, broadcast in 25 markets across B.C. and available as a podcast on major platforms. He launched Gismondionwine.com in 1997, attracting one million monthly users from 114 countries. It continues to be a valuable resource full of tasting notes, intelligent wine stories and videos for the trade and consumers. Conversations with wine personalities are available on his  YouTube Channel.