Modern Day Rosé

Rosé, once considered passé, has regained its popularity in these parts, and we can thank the level-headed Europeans for never giving up on it. While we were busy drinking white zinfandel and its many imitators, they continued to make a bit of rosé, each year in most regions, and doing what they always do ? selling it on piazzas and patios all summer long and pairing it with local, seasonal fare.

The French, in particular, are wildly fond of pink wine. They drink more of it than they make, and a lot more rosé than white wine. Rosé is about as chic as it gets in France at the moment, and its popularity in Hollywood where trends are jump-started has been fuelled by megastars Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie purchasing the highly regarded Château Miraval rosé estate in Provence.

Although most of us are familiar with the sweet, bright pink version of rosé, it ranges in colour and sweetness from the pale and very dry, mostly a European version, to the dark red, sweet "white" zinfandels of California. I don't have a problem with the sweeter version, but I rarely drink it unless the food is particularly spicy. I just find they have little to offer other than a sweet front end and cloying finish that is hard to tolerate for more than a sip or two.

What's interesting about modern-day rosé is that it has become adventurous again. It appears that many wineries are using their rosé to experiment and have some fun. Much of its production is a diversion from the strict wine making protocol that rules the winery's flagship wines. Today there is so much pressure to make a solid Pinot Noir or a great red blend, making rosé is a chance for many winemakers to blow off some steam.

For the record, there are few places rosé is made by simply blending red and white wines ? at least legally. Most pink wine begins life like as red does, crushed black grapes fermenting on its skins. After a few hours of contact the lightly coloured juice is drained off, the skins are removed and fermentation continues à la white wine making. (Hint serve chilled like white wine).

The result is an appealing, mostly white wine with a tinge of red/pink/ orange colour, and just enough flavour and tannin to stand up to a wide array of stylish, al fresco, summer bites. And if it happens to be sparkling, well, let the party begin.

OK, here's the pitch: It's rosé's ability to brighten lunch or a tapas that will move it past the patio and on to the table. With 16 weeks of summer just ahead (you have to believe) and temperatures sure to rise during some of those days, now is the time to do some research.

The driest versions can be served with fish or fowl, white meats work, so do grains and pasta, and most summer produce. The off-dry and sweet bottles which tend to dominate the shelves are another choice and the advice is to serve them the same way you might use a Riesling or a Chenin Blanc. They need to be thoroughly chilled and then mingled with big barbecue-sauce-covered burgers or ribs, aromatic curries and a variety of spicy Asian fare.

That's it. No need to complicate an uncomplicated drink. If anything needs to lighten up for the summer it's probably not the rosé, but us. If you need any more inspiration you could pick up a few bottles, put them in the fridge and when the sun comes out head for the patio.

It is what all the chic people do.

Henkell Trocken Rosé Sekt N/V, Germany

Price: $14 | Score: 86/100

UPC: 04003310163201

Every time I taste this, I marvel at its value. So fresh and bright, its pale salmon colour gives way to off-dry, citrus raspberry, baked apple notes. The attack is soft, a bit foamy, but with enough sweet red fruit and acidity to please. It is highly affordable and perfect for luncheons, picnic, patios and large family gatherings.

La Vieille Ferme Cotes du Ventoux Rosé 2011, Rhone Valley, France

Price: $14 | Score: 86/100

UPC: 00631470000124

You will love the pale salmon, copper colour, and its bright floral, strawberry jam, licorice, spicy fruity aromas. The attack is food friendly, dry and fresh with a slightly austere palate. Flavours are a mix of strawberry, cherry jam, licorice and toasted floral flavours. Always a fresh bet for summer with plenty of citrusy fruit. Try it with veal kebabs.

Fort Berens Pinot Noir Rose 2012, Okanagan Valley

Price: $18 | Score: 87/100

UPC: 00626990125693

Fort Berens wines always display a light hand -- a bonus in B.C., where our best whites and pinks should be light and ethereal. Look for a candied strawberry/pink grapefruit nose and palate. It's quiet, smooth, fresh and fairly long on the palate with a pinch of mid-palate sweet ness followed by hint of citrus in the finish.. This rosé is made from Pinot Noir and should be very food friendly with salmon, chicken, goat cheese, summer sausage or sip solo.

Joie Re-Think Pink! Rosé (iii) 2012, Okanagan Valley

Price: $21 | Score: 87/100

UPC: 692739000026

Much like last year, the colour is a candied red signalling its Pinot Noir/Gamay mix of fruit. The base is Pinot Noir at 60 per cent, Gamay 30, and Pinot Meunier and Pinot Gris five/five. It has a touch of smoky caramel on the nose and just a hint of sweetness in the back end. In between, there are sour cherries, citrus, dried herbs, rhubarb and cranberries. A food rosé with serious bent.

Tinhorn Creek 2 Bench Rosé Oldfield Series 2012, Okanagan Valley

Price: $23 | Score: 87/100

UPC: 00624802971261

Year four is a 51/49 blend of Cabernet Franc and Syrah off Diamondback Vineyard on the Black Sage bench. Love the orange pink colour. Just on the edge of being sweet, this is the perfect foil to spicy summer salads and sushi. The style is light and fun. with a mix of sweet cherries, cranberries, and dried herbs and citrus. Drink all summer.

Domaine du Dragon Cuvée Prestige Rosé 2012, Provence, France

Price: $24 | Score: 89/100

UPC: 00626990110460

The Dragon Cuvée is made in the eastern Provence close to Cannes from old vines and the soil is unusually all chalk. The colour is a super pale salmon; the attack is weighty with fresh strawberry, with flecks of orange peel and wet stone minerality. There is delicacy but with some power suggesting it can stand up to a variety of mid-weight foods: salmon, mussels, clams or a Cobb salad.