MMMM Make Mine Mendoza Malbec

The timing couldn't be better for the South American wine giant, whose remarkable collection of high altitude vineyards and juicy malbec has propelled it to the world stage.

Modern-day Argentina produces wine in seven regions about the country although most every important vineyard is linked to a piece of dirt that clings to the Eastern slopes of the Andes more than 1,000 kilometres west of Buenos Aires, and most of those bear a Mendoza label.

The simple explanation to Argentina's success is malbec. The runaway success of the transplanted French grape is hard to explain other than by granting it a "delicious" factor that many of its competitors have lost. Rich, dark, dense and sweet with a counterbalancing savoury aspect and soft tannins, which balances the ripe fruit flavours, has consumers swooning.

It wasn't all that long ago the same thing could be said about California cabernet sauvignon and Australia shiraz before greed and uncontrolled growth turned both those promising varietal wines (at least at the introductory level) into thin, acidified, hollow wines that consumers are abandoning in favour of the aforementioned, plusher malbec.

While most modern-day writers pride themselves in demystifying wine, malbec is not really a candidate for simplicity. In a region strewn with hanging valleys, interminable degrees of decomposed rock, a hole in its ozone, a dry, inland, continental climate, and vineyards that sit at an altitude north of 1,000 metres, or higher than Grouse Mountain, it is obvious there is a complexity at work that is well-translated into the wine.

The latest statistics from Argentina confirm malbec's prowess with some 41.5 per cent of all export revenues generated by malbec sales; one out of every three grapes that leaves the country is malbec. Even more revealing are sales figures that point to 863,000 cases of malbec produced in 2002 while by the end of 2009 those numbers topped 6.5 million cases.

That kind of growth poses the question of whether Argentina's plan is no different than that of California and Australia. Could malbec land in the discount bin like cheap shiraz and cabernet?

Ask yourself after the festival. I dare say the very best malbec are few and far between on government shelves.

There are many who believe Argentine cabernet sauvignon is the real undiscovered star of Mendoza and then there is torrontes, pinot Gris, sparkling wine, Syrah, bonarda and, well you get the picture. Your best opportunity to assess this country's output is just around the corner. In all, 35 wineries will be on the tasting floor at the Playhouse festival or look for a special display throughout the month of April in BC Liquors Stores.

Nothing much changes with the Trivento Amado Sur Malbec Bonarda Syrah 2007, a 72/16/12 blend of malbec/ bonarda/syrah, although a $1 drop in price is much appreciated. At $15 it's all you can want in a smoky, meaty floral scented red with notes of savoury, black plums. On the palate the entry is smooth with more plum, black cherry coffee, tobacco, vanilla flavours with bits of savoury olives and licorice in the finish. A classic hamburger red that over-delivers for the price.

Michel Torino Don David Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2007 will restore your faith in affordable cabernet sauvignon with its smoky, herbal, meaty, jalapeno, aromas and round, supple, full palate. The flavours are fresh and peppery with meaty, earthy, spicy, herbal, sappy, floral notes all with moderate tannins. There is fine intensity with a wine that you can serve with most grilled meat dishes.

The Dona Paula Los Cardos Malbec 2008 is an attractive mix of red and black fruit flavours from key production regions in Ugarteche, Lujan de Cuyo, and smaller amounts from the high-altitude Uco Valley. The vineyards are a missal selection of the French "Cot" clone developed over decades in Mendoza. Expect soft fresh, spicy, black fruit flavours with a dash of dried herbs that simply get the job done for the price.

The Veneto in Northern Italy is home to Masi wines but they have a major investment in Argentina as evidenced by the Masi Tupungato Passo Doble Malbec -- Corvina 2007. Adding corvina, the grape of Valpolicella to malbec lightens up the density and offers up a different style red. Look for a supple red with black cherry jam, coffee, tobacco and cedar flavours that finishes warm with a bit of acid poking through the back end.

The Finca Flichman Misterio Malbec Oak Aged 2008 is back on track. Elegant fine supple, red fruits with a rich dose of black licorice. The finish is spicy and dry but the fruit and tannins are balanced. A fine solution to the great summer barbecue red conundrum. Good value too.

We complete our brief tour with the aptly named Southern Most Red 2009. Referred to as the "end of the earth" winery this simple tasting red blend is a bit of a mystery. It hails from Neuquén, Patagonia and is made by Bodega Del Fin de Mundo. After that there is little information available on the blend. The palate is warm and sweet with plenty of cedar-y black fruit and pepper and a soft smoky chocolate finish. Another good but basic hamburger red.

Price: $16

UPC: 7798039593503

Score: 87/100

Remarks: At $16 it's all you can want.

Michel Torino Don David Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2007, Cafayate, Salta, Argentina

Price: $16

UPC: 7790189000177

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Peppery, smoky, herbal, meaty, red perfect for flank steak.

Dona Paula Los Cardos Malbec 2008, Lujan de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina

Price: $15

UPC: 836905000018

Score: 86/100

Remarks: Soft fresh, spicy, black fruit flavours with a dash of dried herbs.

Masi Tupungato Passo Doble 2007, Tupungato, Mendoza, Argentina

Price: $16

UPC: 08002062001607

Score: 87/100

Remarks: The blend is 62 malbec, 30 corvina and eight per cent merlot.

Wine Finca Flichman Misterio Malbec Oak Aged 2008, Mendoza, Argentina

Price: $13

UPC: 7790470083094

Score: 86/100

Remarks: A fine solution to the great summer barbecue conundrum. Good value too.

Southern Most Red 2009, San Patricio del Chañar, Neuquén, Patagonia, Argentina

Price: $12

UPC: 007798099598265

Score: 86/100

Remarks: The palate is warm with cedar-y black fruit, pepper and a smoky chocolate finish.